Removing body from San Cheng Schools loco

[billtee]

I need to remove the body from my San Cheng O gauge Schools class locomotive as the outer faces of the driving wheels are rubbing on the slots in the footplate when the locomotive traverses some very tight (51” radius) curves. I am hoping I can file the wheel slots slightly and that should fix the problem, but I have no user-guide on how to get the body off!

Can anyone help me, please?

[Father Dougal]

I need to remove the body from my San Cheng O gauge Schools class locomotive as the outer faces of the driving wheels are rubbing on the slots in the footplate when the locomotive traverses some very tight (51” radius) curves. I am hoping I can file the wheel slots slightly and that should fix the problem, but I have no user-guide on how to get the body off!

Can anyone help me, please?

I have 2 of their diesels and both have 4 tiny screws underneath on the chassis. Yours might be similar,

Dougal

[billtee]

Thank you, Dougal. I have seen two small crosshead screws under the footplate, but have been reluctant to touch them in case I release something I should not release! There may be screws at the front, but I would have to take off the bogie first. I read somewhere that there may also be a screw down the chimney, but again I am wary of undoing things in case problems arise!

[Father Dougal]

I found both of my diesels to be pretty robust and well constructed. I would imagine that if you unscrew the wrong bit you can just refit it. There should be 2 screws near the front, they may be well hidden! I needed a torch to find mine.

 

I found both of mine had a plate covering the wheel sets as well. I accidentally removed this, but it went together again very easily.

 

The motors on both models were neatly wired with no loose or stray wires about- unless the previous owner has 'tinkered' you should be fine.

 

I managed to DCC fit both of mine without any problems.

 

Give it a try.

Fingers crossed!

Dougal

[Guest Isambarduk]

... have been reluctant to touch them in case I release something I should not release! There may be screws at the front, but I would have to take off the bogie first. I read somewhere that there may also be a screw down the chimney, but again I am wary of undoing things in case problems arise!

 

I have not actually worked on a Schools but on other locos from San Cheng Craft the bogie needs to be removed first to reach the other tiny screws that retain the body.  I would not worry about unscrewing something that you shouldn't - you'll always be able to reassemble the whatever (eg the cab from the running plate) and in some cases, particularly on the frames, the screws were there only to hold the components together whilst the soldering is completed; if you remove any of these screws, you may safely leave them out and keep them as spares.   David

[billtee]

Found the (tiny!) screws, undid them and removed the body. I carefully filed the slight lips of the footplate where it joins the wheel recesses, and reassembled the loco.

Unfortunately, my ‘solution’ has not solved the wheel-rubbing problem - my curve is just too tight and although there is plenty of sideways play on the trailing driver, my radii want to push the wheels even further to the side, hence the wheel rims rub on the footplate. Drats!

Looks like I will just have to keep my Schools loco on the ‘main’ line where the radius is a bit bigger.

Thank you, everyone, for your help in this matter.

Bill