metcalfe kit glue removal

[dodgerman20001]

OK i would expect this been asked loads of times. I've started building metcalfe kits and need advise.

What is the best way to remove excess glue from the card without damaging it?..

Glue i'm using is rocket card glue....

I've seen theses erasers, are they any good?

 

many thanks

[Kiwi]

I cant imagine any process that would remove the glue without damaging the surface. 

We are talking about paper/card and glues that are absorbed into the surfaces to be joined. 

 

Think instead of a way to weather or otherwise disguise the exterior in a way that will hide the damage. 

 

A tip for the future (pun intended) is to use the available “fine tip” nozzles for applying glue sparingly and accurately. 

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

Never used the glue you propose. I would try removing it from pieces of the removed border card. Does 'Rocket' have a website or leaflet with advice?

 

I have always used PVA, and that can be removed by acting swiftly immediately after application with a damp rag. But as 'Kiwi' the best approach is not to get glue on the visible exterior of the construction.

[Mick Bonwick]

That glue can't be removed without destroying the surface underneath or, at least, I've never been successful. Your illustrated eraser will have no effect whatsoever. Try asking the glue manufacturers how to resolve your problem.

 

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Edited April 10, 2019 by Mick Bonwick

[wainwright1]

Hi Dodgerman.

 

For the card kits I have built and also models I have scratch-built for my Hawkhurst layout and other club layouts, I have always used ordinary Evo-Stik from a tube.

 

Always use a new tube if possible, as after a time it will string a bit. Other Impact Adhesives such as UHU and Bostik tend to be a bit stringy from the start. I do not like using water based glues like PVA on card kits or brick paper as there is a high risk of marking or damaging the surface.

 

When using  Evo-Stik, if you get any excess on the visible surface, leave it for a couple of minutes and it will turn rubbery and you will find that you can rub it off quite easily without damaging the surface or leaving any marks. But do not leave it too long or you will not be able to to shift it.

 

I also use Evo-Stik for gluing on brick paper using the wall paper technique: spreading a thin coat of the glue onto both surfaces. This allows you to manoeuvre the brick paper and line it up  easily before the glue starts to go off.

 

All the buildings on Hawkhurst, mostly double skinned from card, have been built and assembled with Evo-Stik and are very strong and still looking good after 30 years.

 

RB

[wainwright1]

Here is the Hawkhurst goods shed.

All scratch-built from multi-layered 2 mm laminated mounting card overlaid in Prototype 4mm yellow brick paper.

Unfortunately this brick paper has been out of stock and out of print for some time from Freestone's. Despite my chasing him on numerous occasions.

I need about six new packs so I can build new more accurate versions of the water tower and loco shed, using proper scale drawings. Something that was not available when i built the originals.

RB