Calidore Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 (edited) Evening all, With Prior's Dean, I resisted starting a topic until I was a good way progressed and had something to show for it. This time, I thought I'd go the other way, and hope to draw on some RMWeb expertise as I do so. St Mabyn will be a small end-of-the-line array of goods sidings, modelled heavily on the Wenford Bridge goods yard right at the end of the branch from Dunmere. I'm not at liberty to post most of the images I've been working from but google images brings up a few, for those interested. The track plan is simply three sidings arranged in a fan and the strict brief is to keep things minimalist (all the rage I know) whilst incorporating some of the main scenic features from the prototype. The rest will be open field, hedges, tumbling walls and the gentle sounds of a 45xx, perhaps a 1366 and a D63xx Type 2. To this end I've been beavering away on some structures, but now have three buildings and a loading gantry -- I'm certainly not using all of them. The original idea was to cluster 'stuff' at one end and open space at the other. But I've been mulling arrangements for a few days, and here's where the audience participation comes in. Excuse the dire lighting -- demonstrative shots, not artistic ones: Thus stands plan 1. This started without the gantry, so was just the large tin barn and the rail-served wooden shed. A lane will cross the entry track at right by an ungated crossing, with an entry to the yard coming off it. So this was meant to be 'buildings right, open space left,' but with room for the lane and yard entrance the buildings end up clustered awkwardly in the middle with an undesired symmetry. N.b. this arrangement originated before the gantry was added -- if anything that probably makes the effect worse. Alternatively: Plan 2 switches things around, 'buildings left, open space right'. The shed and barn are bunched here, but a couple of the structures at Wenford Bridge were arranged somewhat similarly and I rather like it (especially as the two are deliberately not parallel). The corner around the buffer stops can then be overgrown bushes and all that good corner-junk type stuff, with acres of open room on the rest of the board. I'm heavily leaning this way at the moment. So any thoughts on these arrangements or other alternatives from those more practiced in composing scenes would be most welcome. Here's a parting ground-level shot to give an idea of where I'm hoping to go with it. Too much writing here already so I'll go into the buildings, map of the invented line etc in another post. Best, Adam Edited April 4, 2020 by Calidore 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry1975 Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 Looks a good project, personally I prefer plan 1, the other plan looks a bit cramped. Jerry. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jinty50 Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 Adam same as Jerry picture 1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke the train spotter Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 Another vote for plan 1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elliot Friend Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 Plan 1 and good luck with the project! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LBRJ Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 Plan 2 but with the crane on one of the other roads. In plan one there appears to be very limited access for road vehicles to the crane area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianusa Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 Plan 2, seems to have more potential. Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Keith Addenbrooke Posted March 6, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 6, 2020 Thank you for inviting us to comment: no surprise there are votes either way, of course. Perhaps it depends if the two main buildings go together (ie: part of the same firm or industry) - in which case I'd go for plan 2, or are separate in terms of their non-railway ownership or operation (in which case I'd go for plan 1). Either way, you have a couple of well built pieces to work with, Keith. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calidore Posted March 7, 2020 Author Share Posted March 7, 2020 (edited) Thanks all, for the input. In the end I've compromised... Today's efforts involved the application of copious amounts of microstrip and bad language to the gantry. A test for the manual dexterity... Ready for priming when I can muster the courage. The original can be seen in this photo, which is altogether too charming not to post here: Credit per the caption to Roger Joanes, reproduced as permitted by Creative Commons, link https://flic.kr/p/26vveQm And yesterday / this morning I got the backscene in place and painted. This will be the final positioning of the buildings, there's still lots of open space out of shot to the right. Track is now glued down and drying. Adam Edited March 7, 2020 by Calidore 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry1975 Posted March 7, 2020 Share Posted March 7, 2020 Very impressive work on the gantry, great start. Jerry. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calidore Posted March 11, 2020 Author Share Posted March 11, 2020 (edited) Cheers Jerry. Many tedious hours later we have clay 'ballast', with daylight under the rails... Life is too short for this... Adam Edited March 11, 2020 by Calidore 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jinty50 Posted March 12, 2020 Share Posted March 12, 2020 Super work on the gantry. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modelling Mike Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 Hi Adam, this looks like a great start to a very interesting project. I like your compromise composition with the buildings and the crane, and I’m particularly interested to see how your clay “ballast” comes out, as I’m thinking of using a similar technique in the goods yard area on Talbothays. Looking forward to seeing this develop. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bazzer42 Posted March 14, 2020 Share Posted March 14, 2020 Thank you for the life is too short comment, I've been wanting to try clay but wonder whether it is as easy as portrayed in articles. Too early to ask whether if you had your time again.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calidore Posted March 14, 2020 Author Share Posted March 14, 2020 (edited) Thanks all for the comments and likes. 21 hours ago, Modelling Mike said: Hi Adam, this looks like a great start to a very interesting project. I like your compromise composition with the buildings and the crane, and I’m particularly interested to see how your clay “ballast” comes out, as I’m thinking of using a similar technique in the goods yard area on Talbothays. Looking forward to seeing this develop. Mike Thank you Mike. There are a few effects which you can create with it, depending on taste and the look of any prototype you're basing the model on. This is totally plain, and looks a bit odd to me at the moment, but with the right colouring and powders it should turn out (I hope!). When I did it on Prior's Dean, I was replicating the look of clay with very sparse ballast sunk into the surface, so I did the same as here but impressed a tiny amount of ballast into the surface with the end of a pencil as I went along. I am very fond of that but it was very fiddly: 10 hours ago, bazzer42 said: Thank you for the life is too short comment, I've been wanting to try clay but wonder whether it is as easy as portrayed in articles. Too early to ask whether if you had your time again.... It always looks easy doesn't it! I have been thinking about some methods which I'm fairly sure would achieve the same result with a fraction of the effort, which I'll be trying on a tiny diorama or two in due course. One is simply to roll the clay out and cut to shape first, then firmly press the track in while it's still wet. Worth thinking about. ----- Gradually getting to the satisfying part where images I'd planned in my mind's eye are starting to appear on the board. As I think I mentioned, one of my early aims was an ungated crossing of the type which was so common along the line to Wenford Bridge. With vegetation in, some small road signs, and a few sheep being ushered down the hill, this'll be right about what I'd planned. Although I enjoy scratch building structures, scribing endless walls really is a step too far on what was intended as a quick project, so hopefully the RTP walls will be excused once properly repainted, weathered, and blended with the scenics. The first of many layers of paint and powder have gone down on the yard surface -- although there's still a lot of ground cover and track finishing to be done, I'm at least at the point now where I can intersperse that with starting the scenic work and a few bits of detailing. Adam Edited March 14, 2020 by Calidore 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modelling Mike Posted March 14, 2020 Share Posted March 14, 2020 2 hours ago, Calidore said: Thank you Mike. There are a few effects which you can create with it, depending on taste and the look of any prototype you're basing the model on. This is totally plain, and looks a bit odd to me at the moment, but with the right colouring and powders it should turn out (I hope!). When I did it on Prior's Dean, I was replicating the look of clay with very sparse ballast sunk into the surface, so I did the same as here but impressed a tiny amount of ballast into the surface with the end of a pencil as I went along. I am very fond of that but it was very fiddly I’m aiming for the ash/old ballast/anything lying around look for the goods yard area. Most of it will be covered in a layer of grot and grime as well, so clay looked like a good way to go. The track work on Prior’s Dean looks superb, thanks for the picture. More food for thought! The crossing is coming along nicely too - those RTP walls are a great product and should blend in nicely. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MAP66 Posted March 17, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 17, 2020 On 14/03/2020 at 22:59, Modelling Mike said: I’m aiming for the ash/old ballast/anything lying around look for the goods yard area. Most of it will be covered in a layer of grot and grime as well, so clay looked like a good way to go. The track work on Prior’s Dean looks superb, thanks for the picture. More food for thought! The crossing is coming along nicely too - those RTP walls are a great product and should blend in nicely. Hi Mike / Adam I wanted to achieve the same ballast effect and found that clay was too time consuming for my taste, so I experimented with ready mixed deep gap polyfilla. A little bit of diluted pva applied first to the trackbed helps pull in the filler and it almost finds it s own level to just below the height of the sleepers. As previously mentioned you can then gently tamp in some ballast every now and again and when dry weather to suit. The filler also dries leaving a fine texture surface which is also good for road surfaces or yard areas and can be easily sanded for an even finer surface. I find this method much faster that than using clay, I have attached a photo of finished piece of track from 'Tyteford Halte' using this method. Please note I only used the filler in between the sleepers between the rails as I wanted to represent the build up of congealed muck and filth normally found in between the track at station platforms, the outside of the track I left more ballasty. It might not be your bag, but thought I should share. Good luck with the ballasting Mark 4 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calidore Posted March 23, 2020 Author Share Posted March 23, 2020 (edited) On 17/03/2020 at 09:28, MAP66 said: Hi Mike / Adam I wanted to achieve the same ballast effect and found that clay was too time consuming for my taste, so I experimented with ready mixed deep gap polyfilla. A little bit of diluted pva applied first to the trackbed helps pull in the filler and it almost finds it s own level to just below the height of the sleepers. As previously mentioned you can then gently tamp in some ballast every now and again and when dry weather to suit. The filler also dries leaving a fine texture surface which is also good for road surfaces or yard areas and can be easily sanded for an even finer surface. I find this method much faster that than using clay, I have attached a photo of finished piece of track from 'Tyteford Halte' using this method. Please note I only used the filler in between the sleepers between the rails as I wanted to represent the build up of congealed muck and filth normally found in between the track at station platforms, the outside of the track I left more ballasty. It might not be your bag, but thought I should share. Good luck with the ballasting Mark Hi Mark, that's excellent, thanks for sharing. The effect you've achieved is very convincing indeed -- I'll have to have a go with that method and see how it is. Do I take it the filler is quite fluid then? I've been looking at a texture paste product in my local art shop which I'm tempted to try, which looks like it's quite watery so would hopefully be fairly easy to work. I'll have to have a look at the thread for Tyteford as well. -------- I've found the past week quite a motivation killer, despite all the free time, so haven't done all that much modelling. Nonetheless, here's a game of spot the difference from last time. Still needs lots of detailing and fine tuning, but it's a base layer at least. I hope everyone is well, keeping busy, and making the best of it as far as possible. Adam Edited March 23, 2020 by Calidore 10 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calidore Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 (edited) Inspiration seems to have returned. Another layer of ground colouring, tarpaulin on the barn coloured, and the building and van both attacked with some grime: Both ends of the shed will be getting some yard junk and perhaps a sleeper wall to contain ash / ballast. Adam Edited March 25, 2020 by Calidore 10 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calidore Posted March 31, 2020 Author Share Posted March 31, 2020 Starting to get into the fun detailing part: The ballast bin at the front does contain ballast, but naturally invisible from ground level. I'm rather pleased with how it's coming together now, and the list of outstanding jobs is getting smaller. Any comments and feedback appreciated as always -- next few jobs include the runner and lifting gear for the gantry and perhaps making tarpaulins for half the rake of clay hoods, to make a short set with and a short set without. Happy modelling in these strange times... Adam 14 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MAP66 Posted March 31, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 31, 2020 On 25/03/2020 at 14:36, Calidore said: Inspiration seems to have returned. Another layer of ground colouring, tarpaulin on the barn coloured, and the building and van both attacked with some grime: Both ends of the shed will be getting some yard junk and perhaps a sleeper wall to contain ash / ballast. Adam Hi Adam Impressive modelling, can I ask what method you used for the draped tarpaulin over the barn. The realism is amazing. Regards Mark 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calidore Posted April 1, 2020 Author Share Posted April 1, 2020 (edited) 20 hours ago, MAP66 said: Hi Adam Impressive modelling, can I ask what method you used for the draped tarpaulin over the barn. The realism is amazing. Regards Mark Thanks Mark, very kind. As I was going to do some of the clay hoods anyway, here's a how-to. Step 1 -- measure and chop your tissue to size. This is regular Sainsburys but is 3-ply, which is more robust and easier to work than 2-ply. Step 2 -- Position over whatever the building / stock item is, and run a finger and thumb over all the angles to roughly impress the shape into it. It won't stay perfectly like a proper fold, but it just needs to loosely follow the shape. Nb here also I wasn't concentrating and cut a piece with embossed pattern, in this case it won't notice but generally best to use plain sections only. Step 3 -- Give it a good soak with glue, I use the classic ballast mix of 50/50 pva/water with a drop of washing up liquid. While it's wet you can gently push the tissue around to either smooth out wrinkles you don't want, or add more if you do. Smooth the edges down onto the surface and press them into details, or leave them loose for a more casual fit. Step 4 -- Clear up the pva you've accidentally poured all over the desk (me) Step 5 -- repeat Step 6 -- Paint! I left these 4 or 5 hours to dry. The material takes brushing with acrylics very nicely, and when it gets wet you can rework any bits of the tarpaulin if you want to as it softens. Like I said it's fairly robust, but careful not to poke through the sheet. Nice and easy and a good project for when you've only got 30 mins spare rather than hours. I can see how people get addicted to little stock projects like this and end up with a rake of 50 So that's the secret to tarpaulins revealed -- it's a cover up... Adam Edited April 1, 2020 by Calidore 8 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MAP66 Posted April 1, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 1, 2020 27 minutes ago, Calidore said: Thanks Mark, very kind. As I was going to do some of the clay hoods anyway, here's a how-to. Step 1 -- measure and chop your tissue to size. This is regular Sainsburys but is 3-ply, which is more robust and easier to work than 2-ply. Step 2 -- Position over whatever the building / stock item is, and run a finger and thumb over all the angles to roughly impress the shape into it. It won't stay perfectly like a proper fold, but it just needs to loosely follow the shape. Nb here also I wasn't concentrating and cut a piece with embossed pattern, in this case it won't notice but generally best to use plain sections only. Step 3 -- Give it a good soak with glue, I use the classic ballast mix of 50/50 pva/water with a drop of washing up liquid. While it's wet you can gently push the tissue around to either smooth out wrinkles you don't want, or add more if you do. Smooth the edges down onto the surface and press them into details, or leave them loose for a more casual fit. Step 4 -- Clear up the pva you've accidentally poured all over the desk (me) Step 5 -- repeat Step 6 -- Paint! I left these 4 or 5 hours to dry. The material takes brushing with acrylics very nicely, and when it gets wet you can rework any bits of the tarpaulin if you want to as it softens. Like I said it's fairly robust, but careful not to poke through the sheet. Nice and easy and a good project for when you've only got 30 mins spare rather than hours. I can see how people get addicted to little stock projects like this and end up with a rake of 50 So that's the secret to tarpaulins revealed -- it's a cover up... Adam Fantastic tutorial Adam, thanks for taking the time to document and explain the process. Now I'm wondering where can I include a tarpaulin in Tyteford. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calidore Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 Thanks to everyone who has been following along, liking and commenting etc. Much of my modelling time in the past couple of days has been spent elsewhere, reviving a totally unresponsive Q1. Obviously not intended for this project, but will likely be needed for my next, and I wanted it done anyway. It was 'one of those' which gets more and more frustrating, but after a total chassis strip and some modifications it now runs incredibly sweetly, despite having sat in its box for about 15 years at a guess. It's one of the factory weathered ones so I'll give it a proper dirtying up now that it's working properly. Meanwhile back here, I got around to finishing off the gantry with a runner, cables and hook, so lift off indeed. All based on the real thing at Wenford Bridge and I'm pretty happy. The cables seem to hang straighter in real life (always the way). Having spent so much time stressing over it, I thought I'd allow myself a couple of shots of the troublemaker too: Charlie 9 eases over the pointwork and down the yard... ...and is ditched unceremoniously at the end of the siding in disgrace as the sun sets. Finally here's one just to remind us where we really are (before I finished the gantry off, but I like the photo anyway) 4569 eases a few clay hoods away from the yard and down towards the junction with the main line. Thoughts and feedback always appreciated Adam 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gatesy64 Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 Thanks for the inspiration Adam. I’ve been meaning to get rid of those awful Bachmann tarps for ages and never getting round to it. Tried the tissues but only had 2 ply and it didn’t go well. Ended up using Tissue paper as used in packaging with excellent results, well pleased so thanks again for inspiring me to get on with it! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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