The propsed layout (considerable David Broad input - thanks)

[Chilly]

 

The planning continues and so do the questions!

 

This is the amended layout (below) the bottom part will be towards the wall in a bedroom, with hopefully a railway station either side. I have cut off the bottom pass. 

 

I agree with a wall/fence around the side edges and at the front to avoid accidents. The baseboard will be extended to 12.5ft x 4.5 ft to give a little leeway on the track placement.

 

I have colour coded what appear to me to be 3 separate running tracks which look like they need 3 separate controllers if you agree.

 

Where would the power for these be placed to make it work?

 

What puzzles me on the electrics is the crossovers from track to track such as outside to inside /fiddle yard and vice versa; I assume that there needs some sort of isolation on those points, is this with plastic fish plates and where ?

 

When a train traverses track it appears that another controller must take over from the other assuming that controller is set for the same direction of travel?

 

When a train travels from out to in is it still possible for a train to travel the loop that the train is moving across the tracks on, say outer loop to fiddle but still operate a train on the inside track?  

 

Chimer mentioned above that where the points are set against the siding that siding will be isolated, this leads me to think that I could use a number of trains back and forward in the sidings as long as I don't live the track to another siding where a train is on?   

 

Oh one more thing if I use tracklay the sticky stuff how does it work on bends as it comes in straight lengths on a roll?

 

At the outset the scenery will be basic but hopefully built up over time and is not representative of anything, just a fun thing really !

 

If I use the peco 24" tracksetta do I have to use the 21" for the inner bend or can I use that plastic track distance gadget placed on the outside bend to create the inner bend, or is this creating an overhang problem? So coaches for the outside track will be Gresham teaks and BR Mk 1 carriages maybe on the inside. 

 

Lots of questions I know but this is where the knowledge bank is

 

Thanks Chilly

 

 

 

 

This is the amended layout the bottom part will be towards the wall in a bedroon, with hopefully a railway station either side. I have cut off the bottom pass. 

 

I agree with a wall/fence around the side edges and at the front to avoid accidents. The baseboard will be extended to 12.5ft x 4.5 ft to give a little leeway on the track placement.

 

I have colour coded what appear to me to be 3 separate running tracks which look like they need 3 separate controllers if you agree.

 

Where would the power for these be placed to make it work?

 

What puzzles me on the electrics is the crossovers from track to track such as outside to inside /fiddle yard and vice versa; I assume that there needs some sort of isolation on those points, is this with plastic fish plates and where ?

 

When a train traverses track it appears that another controller must take over from the other assuming that controller is set for the same direction of travel?

 

When a train travels from out to in is it still possible for a train to travel the loop that the train is moving across the tracks on, say outer loop to fiddle but still operate a train on the inside track?  

 

Chimer mentioned above that where the points are set against the siding that siding will be isolated, this leads me to think that I could use a number of trains back and forward in the sidings as long as I don't live the track to another siding where a train is on?   

 

Oh one more thing if I use tracklay the sticky stuff how does it work on bends as it comes in straight lengths on a roll?

 

At the outset the scenery will be basic but hopefully built up over time and is not representative of anything, just a fun thing really !

 

Lots of questions I know but this is where the knowledge bank is

[mdvle]

Please don't repeatedly start new topics for every change - keep posting to the existing thread so that the process can be seen by anyone coming upon your layout design later.

[Chilly]

Apologies new to this forum good to know the ground rules.

 

Thanks Chilly

[Chimer]

Minimum power feeds as shown by the arrows.  Insulating rail joiners (fishplates) to separate your three coloured sections (on both rails where the colour changes), and also, if using electrofrog points, on all four rails at the end of the point with the red line.  The two feeds to the blue and yellow sections and the three feeds to the green section can be linked.

 

 

3 separate controllers will work, and will be necessary if you want to shunt around the green tracks at the same time as trains circulate on blue and yellow.

 

You can pass trains from one section to another by having two controllers set correctly.  But better, in my opinion, to arrange the wiring so each of the three sections can be connected to any one (but only one) of the controllers.  Then if you want to pass a train from blue to yellow, you connect one controller (say A) to both blue and yellow sections while you move it across.  When the move is complete, switch the blue section to controller B.  This is sometimes called "cab control".  I can give you a wiring diagram for this if you're interested.

 

You can't pass a train from green to yellow, or vice versa, while a train is running round blue.  But you can isolate a train on blue between a pair of crossovers while you do this.

 

You can theoretically have as many locos on the green section as you have sidings (minus 1 so your chosen loco has an empty siding to move to.

 

I say again, don't try to use flexible track for the end curves, you won't get them smooth even if you use a tracksetta,  Use set-track curves!

 

No idea about tracklay, never used it.

 

That's your basic questions answered.  I'm sure lots of others will tell you things you haven't asked about. 

 

Cheers

 

Chris

Edited May 4, 2020 by Chimer

[Chimer]

PS ….

 

to save anyone else jumping in, I've just realised that switching blue and green sections to the same controller using cab control will produce an immediate short circuit.  The green section needs to be split in two - at the point where I've marked red for electrofrog purposes would do it.  Normally both green sections would be switched to the same controller, one would have to be switched off when doing a transfer to blue.  If the OP wants to go this way I can elaborate if necessary!

[Chilly]

Hi Chimer

 

Many thanks for your help, I will digest your comments but fully expect I will need your further guidance especially on the wiring etc.

 

When you say don't use flexible track for the end curves that means I will have to model in PECO 100 which appears to have set curves unlike 75, not really a problem as it is more a fun thing than a serious modelling undertaking.

 

ATB Chilly

[Joseph_Pestell]

11 minutes ago, Chilly said:

Hi Chimer

 

Many thanks for your help, I will digest your comments but fully expect I will need your further guidance especially on the wiring etc.

 

When you say don't use flexible track for the end curves that means I will have to model in PECO 100 which appears to have set curves unlike 75, not really a problem as it is more a fun thing than a serious modelling undertaking.

 

ATB Chilly

 

You could use Code 75 on the visible parts of the layout but Code 100 Setrack on the tight hidden curves. There are (or were) special rail joiners to do this and I think they do a short adapter track as well.

[Chilly]

Hi Joseph

 

Thanks for that it is a good idea, I suspect however that the whole track will remain visible alas.

 

ATB Chilly

[DCB]

Nothing wrong with Chimer's feeds except the turning "Wye" track changes polarity vis a vis the sidings so it needs to change between upper siding and lower siding polarity.   Centre off dpdt switch or a pair of spdt micro switches operated by the point would do the trick.  Or leave out the wye which is why I put it in in a different colour on my doodle.

 

See doodle. Cheers.

[Chimer]

Hi David, I worked that out soon after posting  - my alternative fix would be to split the green section into two, upper and lower sidings, with the split on one or other of the tracks to the right of the point nearest your white feed.  Must say I like the ability to turn locos, worth the added pain in my opinion.

Edited May 4, 2020 by Chimer

[Chilly]

Hi Chaps

 

Many thanks for your input do you think I could just about squeeze a peco radius 4 onto a 12ft x 4ft layout at both ends?

 

ATB Chilly