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The Sparrow - new layout (proposed)


Giles

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I've finally had a chance to do something!

 

 

The track plan has been revised somewhat, in order to make it physically a little smaller (10ft) and to reduce the amount of trackwork (so as not to over-do it). On the down-side this has lost the standard-gauge single line, which I always like, on the plus side, there is perhaps (if I get it right) more scenic interest,  but trying hard not to overdo it still....

 

An old bridge over the tidal river, accessing the harbour.

The bridge carcass is 2mm MDF, and will of course be of stonework.

 

 

 

Latest revision


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I think the latest version of the track plan is great, I have always liked the less is more approach to modelling.  

 

I also am a big fan of the line running off through the buildings.  

Edited by jhock
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  • 1 month later...

The trackwork and point over the bridge is also complete, and the point Motor fitted and working. The trackwork on the village/bridge side is tramway. 2.5mm strips of nickel-silver are soldered next to the rail to achieve this.

 

 

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Very nice, very effective, I guess very reliable, and dead easy to make if you have access to even a simple 3D printer.  Probably cheaper than a servo, certainly cheaper than any other slow motion motor.

 

The follower pin.  I guess that’s screwed to the slider?  Might it be worth dropping on a short length of brass or plastic tube to act as a roller?  (Though that would be a complete PITA to fix if you were on your back under the baseboard!)

 

Wiring.  Obviously simple, but if you want the switch position to indicate the route (either as part of a dummy lever frame, or on a mimic diagram) it might be a bit more challenging.  A passing contact switch, will work, but I’m pondering whether it will ever get itself in the wrong state, possibly when powering up the layout.  If it can, half-operating the switch will fix it - ie, moving the lever to the mid point, and then back to wherever it was.

 

What current do those tiny gear motors take?  I guess an Arduino might need a transistor to drive one?

 

cheers

Simon

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I think more reliable than most, and easier to sort than most if there's a problem.

 

At present the follower pin is part of the print, as appears fine, although one could certainly replace it with a solid pin with little trouble.

 

The third microswitch fitted should indicate route reliably,  as (do long as you wire it up correctly!) The single detent in the wheel (one every 360 degrees) used by that switch only corresponds to one particular blade position, and the rest of the wheel give you the other blade position - if that makes sense? So it will always read the correct road in any event. The only switch that has two detents (180 degrees) is the one operating the motor.

 

The motor probably takes about 50 - 100mA whilst operating - the load isn't high.... I haven't a clue what an Arduino puts out!

 

Edited by Giles
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Regarding the point motor, I understand how the joining of two wires could operate a latch to produce a circuit through the motor. What I'm not quite sure of is how the circuit is re-made after the microswitch breaks the circuit. A circuit diagram would be helpful.

 

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2 hours ago, Giles said:

The third microswitch fitted should indicate route reliably,


no doubt, fully agree.

 

I was thinking more of the position of the control panel switch toggle as if it were a lever in a signal box, which wants a 1:1 correspondence with the blade position.  Given that a push-to-make will toggle the position of the blades, I conjectured that it would be possible using a passing contact switch with both passing contacts in parallel, to do that.  
Then I worried that if it were wrong, you’d have to be able to reset it.

Then I thought that there was a way to do that…


 

an Arduino uno can source 40 mA at 5V, sounds like a transistor would be wise.

 

cheers

Simon

 

 

 

Edited by Simond
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1 hour ago, Simond said:


no doubt, fully agree.

 

I was thinking more of the position of the control panel switch toggle as if it were a lever in a signal box, which wants a 1:1 correspondence with the blade position.  Given that a push-to-make will toggle the position of the blades, I conjectured that it would be possible using a passing contact switch with both passing contacts in parallel, to do that.  
Then I worried that if it were wrong, you’d have to be able to reset it.

Then I thought that there was a way to do that…


 

an Arduino uno can source 40 mA at 5V, sounds like a transistor would be wise.

 

cheers

Simon

 

 

 

 

 

Sorry Simon - I understand now!!!!  :D

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 4 months later...

I have to decorate the hall and landing, and then I may be able to make a start proper.

 

Also yet another loco in the offing - minus wheels as yet!

 

2022-09-09_05-00-32

 

2022-09-09_05-01-34

 

 

 

Edited by Giles
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  • 4 months later...

Ive finally got the wheels for this thing, and it came to the top of the list - so I finished it off..... It's radio controlled with the usual Rx41 from Micron controlling things, and a 1200mAh battery tucke away in the saddle tank. Drive is by a HighLevel Load Hauler.

 

.]

 

I also got carried away with a 3D drawing project which waas a Kerr Stuart Tattoo - which ended up an actual model

 

Capture 19

 

2023-02-05_04-54-10

 

 

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