Mixing Hornby and Peco track questions

[dragosmp]

Hi all,

 

Looking at the topics around here, this is a proper noob question, so please be kind with the beginner. As many story start, I bought some stuff off of ebay, a few "large radius" Peco points (turnouts), thinking my Virgin Pendolino or the Pensylvania 4-10-4 will like them more than the classic Hornby R613, which turns a bit too tight. Took some SL-99 becasue they're just dam cool for a station.

 

Problem is, the ends don't quite line up, and then I can't easily close the loops. I build my layouts (DCC) in the livingroom for a weekend and they usually consist in 5 more or less concentric loops linked with points and some sidings.

 

My question is, what P/N or type of track should be used to align Peco and Hornby track combos? Is there even such a thing, or I need to clip some R601s to the right size? To help with these questions I built some examples in Anyrail, see attached, using standard Hornby or Peco parts, but they're missing a few mm to line up well. What would you suggest?

 

Many thanks

 

P.S. In case you're wondering why all the fuss, I just like the Peco points, SL-99 is just so dam cool.

[Butler Henderson]

Your trying to mix setrack systems (Hornby Rxxx which is also Peco ST-xxx and Bachmann 36-6xx) with a flexible track based system (Peco SL-xx). Fundamentally the SL "Streamline" points are based on track centres of 50mm, 17mm narrower than that of the Setrack. It might be possible to juggle Setrack parts, Peco offer different lengths of straights below the R600 size to Hornbys sole R610 offering but the simpler and cheaper approach would be to use flexible track cut to length as necessary. If using Streamline points keep to the 50mm track centres on straights and increase it as necessary on curved to avoid trains hitting each other as they pass.

 

[dragosmp]

Thanks Butler Henderson, it does seem that the easy way is to cut some custom sizes for compatibility. I hadn't found the need so far to use flexi track, as the various Hornby pieces match perfectly every time between themselves. I was wondering if by just using standard bits one can make Peco Streamline Code 100 (what I have just bought) compatible with the giant box of Hornby track I gathered throughout the years. Guess I need to learn how to make a nice track cut.

 

*EDIT: Any suggestion on bringing the curved bit of the Peco SL88 or SL99 point back to parallel? R628 seems to be the closest, but the angle is ever so slightly different. I can't find a Peco 11.5deg curve and R628 is 12deg.

 

Cheers

Edited February 13, 2021 by dragosmp

[Butler Henderson]

Without using flex the only off the shelve solution would be another point.

[Dungrange]

As others have said, the Peco streamline points are intended to be used with flexi-track. 

 

The set-track geometry is based around curves being 45 degrees, 22.5 degrees and 11.25 degrees so that you can use whatever combination of double curves, standard curves and half curves you need to make up your desired geometry (which is assumed to be an oval).  The set-track point work is designed as a simple replacement for these curves in much the same way as you can do with Brio track: remove a second radius curve and replace with a point.

 

However, all of the Peco streamline track uses a diverging angle of 12 degrees, so just as with the set-track geometry, you can combine a combination of turnouts, diamond crossings and slips to create a prototypical looking formation.  However, the track centres are less (2") so that it looks more realistic.

 

You can certainly mix and match Streamline and Set-track, but it will very much be a case of cut to fit.  You will however need to be careful with your track centres.  If you scale down the prototype, then parallel tracks should be 45 mm apart (centre to centre).  However, if you are using train set radius curves, then you need the tracks to be much further apart.  This is what drives the set-track geometry - the need to provide 67 mm between parallel tracks (centre to centre).  The Streamline point-work is intended to be a 'half-way house': the track spacing is greater than a true scale representation to account for the fact that all model railways use tighter curves than the prototype, but are intended to be used with much larger radii than you get in a train set.

 

The answer to your question is therefore, you need to cut track if you want to mix set-track and streamline.

[dragosmp]

Ahh, what did I get myself into... Turns out there is some flexi track on auction in the next  hours, might as well.

 

Thanks guys, much appreciated