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Abington Parkway - BR Era7 and 8


Mitche01

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Hello All,

 

I have started this thread to capture my build as I progress.


Bit of background:

 

I am coming back to the hobby after 32 years and plan to use my old stock still so will be running a oo gauge DC layout on code 100. I have lots of old stock and have been buying up other items that I have always wanted recently from good old ebay / Hattons etc...

 

The name comes from living near a park in Abington!

 

Build Plan:

 

Rough size - 14ft x 10ft 

 

4 track roundy round with a branchline end to end that decends to from the main station to a single platform station. 

 

The main 4 lines will pass through a station then out into the country side before coming back into the fiddle yard then back into the station. 3/4 of the track will be scenic with the fiddle yard having 3 tracks per 1 main line. (So 12 sidings total). 15 lanes, (4 FU, 4 FD, 3 SU, 4 SD)

The branchline will be 2/3 car DMU shuttle (using SS2A system) and a heritage line for tank engines starting at the main station and travelling down hill to the "station halt" which i will switch between, sometimes using the auto shuttle and sometime controlling the steam tank engines.

 

Intention is to have a bridge and river/canal, farmers fields, 5 platform station for all lines incl branchline, toe path next to the branchline and a few other scenic interests depending what else looks good/can fit without feeling stuffed in.

 

Rolling Stock

 

Mixing BR Blue/Grey and sectorisation stock - some days will run BR ERA 7 items (47, 37, 31, 25, HST Blue Grey, 56, 58, 26, 27, 50) and some days ERA 8 (47, 37, 31, 33, 86, 87, 90, 91, HST Intercity, 60, 56, 59) with occasional steam.

 

So Build Plan tasks:

 

Loft hatch move - DONE 20/05/22

Lights and electrical socket fitment - DONE 03/11/22 

Board loft floor - DONE 20/11/22

Insulate loft roof - DONE 20/11/22

Lay Cork and carpet on floor - DONE 20/11/22

Build layout boards (going to use open frame method) - DONE 03/02/23 -> 10/02/23

Add back scenes - DONE 19/02/23

Lay track beds - DONE 01/03/23 -> 10/03/23

Lay cork on fiddle yard - DONE 23/03/23

Lay fiddle yard - DONE 06/04/23 - 14/04/23

Lay scenic track - DONE 15/04/23 - 04/10/23

Wiring

Point motors

Test before laying ballast etc..

Start to scenic

 

I am sure things will change as I go and will to keep people updated with progress / changes.

 

So hope you enjoy the progress, I am sure I will have plenty of ups and downs as we go!

 

Edited by Mitche01
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  • RMweb Gold

Something to check before you commit too much: older locos have closer back to backs which don’t like modern ‘universal’ points (my gut feeling is todays universal is more like 70s fine scale in Peco terms.  32 years is probably OK i.e. 90s locos but I had to adjust 70s Hymeks by pushing the wheels gently out on the axles.

Nothing that can’t be overcome either by adjustment or by Peters Spares replacement wheel sets (usually).

Paul.

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13 minutes ago, 5BarVT said:

Something to check before you commit too much: older locos have closer back to backs which don’t like modern ‘universal’ points (my gut feeling is todays universal is more like 70s fine scale in Peco terms.  32 years is probably OK i.e. 90s locos but I had to adjust 70s Hymeks by pushing the wheels gently out on the axles.

Nothing that can’t be overcome either by adjustment or by Peters Spares replacement wheel sets (usually).

Paul.

 

Thanks for the heads up, I have a back to back gauge so I can check and I have also bought some more recent items too so will check. My intention is to use mix of Code 100 Streamline points on the main scenic area, but use some Settrack points I have already on the fiddle yard. 

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OK - so I have started to do calculations for the fiddle yards and branchline station lengths.

 

My goal is to be able to run full HST 125 and 225 rakes from the era I am modelling - 

as my layout is 14 ft x 10 ft and the fiddle yard will be along one of the 14ft lengths, with curved points at each end to maximise the straight length yard size, it looks like I will have ~2ft each side to play with/fit the curve tracks/point work into and out of the fiddle yard.

 

As for the branch lines, my station length needs to accomidate up to 1.1m of train (note - the Class 350 is not in the eras but I have 2 due to the train being one of the only ones my son has actually seen running!!).

 

Feel free to use for your rake length checks!

 

 

EDIT - added letters to identify calculations in table 

 

image.png.7d99db7da106544a1e471acc8733bc55.png

Edited by Mitche01
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  • 4 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Loft boarded and carpeted too.

 

I have added 50mm celatex to roof and walls, then the floor has 6mm of cork between the carpet tiles and loft boards, trying to provide a little extra thermal help and acoustic benefit.

 

work will now begin on the base board frames and track boards in the new year.

20221120_010421.jpg

20221120_010417.jpg

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  • RMweb Gold

I would advise painting or ideally boxing in the chimney breast to reduce the amount of dust and heat loss or if you still have fires the fluctuations in temperature near it. The work you've done looks really neat. Are you going to have a "Bitsa" station (Platforms continuing into the fiddle yard scenic break)?

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5 hours ago, simonmcp said:

I would advise painting or ideally boxing in the chimney breast to reduce the amount of dust and heat loss or if you still have fires the fluctuations in temperature near it. The work you've done looks really neat. Are you going to have a "Bitsa" station (Platforms continuing into the fiddle yard scenic break)?

Thank you for the advice. Those chimneys are not used but I do need to repoint them! The house was built in 1911 and is a mid terraced.

 

Yes I am having the main station on the 4 tracks running round the layout going into the fiddle yard, then the branch line will start at the station and head down a gradient to another station halt type, havent decided if it is to be a heritage style line with lots of old railway stock on display used sidings etc or not.

 

 

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  • 2 months later...

As soon as it is practical for you to do so, run a test train through the curved points, several if you can, using the inside radius track. Where you have planned 2 in sequence you quite likely will have derailments. Worst case it will be impossible to get anything round. Since this feature is critical to the success of the layout you need to know it works.

 

I would be tempted to test your scheme on Anyrail as well, to check it actually works. How did you create the scheme shown?

 

Actually, looking at the woodwork scheme I would be 99% sure the layout track plan doesnt fit, so having said that I will check it on Anyrail but that will be Monday earliest.

 

The minimum extra required is to plan for curved sections filling in each corner, consistent with second radius track dimensions, regardless of what i find on Anyrail.

Edited by RobinofLoxley
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4 hours ago, RobinofLoxley said:

As soon as it is practical for you to do so, run a test train through the curved points, several if you can, using the inside radius track. Where you have planned 2 in sequence you quite likely will have derailments. Worst case it will be impossible to get anything round. Since this feature is critical to the success of the layout you need to know it works.

Tend to agree, not that I’ve used set track points, but have heard of others having troubles.

Streamline curved have given me no trouble both pulling and propelling, but they have a different geometry so you would need to replan.

Paul.

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On 04/02/2023 at 14:11, 5BarVT said:

Tend to agree, not that I’ve used set track points, but have heard of others having troubles.

Streamline curved have given me no trouble both pulling and propelling, but they have a different geometry so you would need to replan.

Paul.

 

On 04/02/2023 at 10:04, RobinofLoxley said:

As soon as it is practical for you to do so, run a test train through the curved points, several if you can, using the inside radius track. Where you have planned 2 in sequence you quite likely will have derailments. Worst case it will be impossible to get anything round. Since this feature is critical to the success of the layout you need to know it works.

 

I would be tempted to test your scheme on Anyrail as well, to check it actually works. How did you create the scheme shown?

 

Actually, looking at the woodwork scheme I would be 99% sure the layout track plan doesnt fit, so having said that I will check it on Anyrail but that will be Monday earliest.

 

The minimum extra required is to plan for curved sections filling in each corner, consistent with second radius track dimensions, regardless of what i find on Anyrail.

Hello,

 

thanks for the input. The schematic that I have posted is just a simple power point mock up, by no way a accurate dimensionally correct layout. It was intended for explanation purposes only, not for checks of dimensions/layout fits etc. I believe it will fit as I have seen it on other peoples layouts on the same board dimensions as I am planning (each board is 634mm wide).

 

With regards to the set track points, my rolling stock does go round these points successfully - they are (mostly) from 1980/90s and have the large wheels and designed even down to Radius 1 curves.

 

a set track point, from my understanding is a 3rd (outer frog) and 2nd (inner frog) radius so are OK - and i have a small gap of track between the 2 in the actual layout to give the right angles of the track to come into and out of the fiddle yard.

 

What I am checking in detail in Anyrail is the branch line - as my concern is - I need 3.5ft at the platform for a 158 to sit, and ~ 1.5 ft for a headshunt and point - which does not give me so much room for the double slip onto the main lines before the curve. - the alternative is that when not using the loco pulled branchline services, the DMUs can sit partily into the head shunt anyway.

 

Thanks,  Simon

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I wondered how you got that drawing, it was very good, just didnt look quite proportional. Thats why the elements were so symmetrical.

 

Anyway, I have drawn the plan in Anyrail or at least the bottom left corner. Setrack on the left, streamline on the right, 300mm squares. I have allowed 12cm plus for the platform spaces, and while you can squeeze more track in to the available space than I have done, especially if you consider it to be off-scene, remember you do need to be able to get fingers in, especially the tracks furthest away from you. They are the hardest to lay as well. The red second radius curve is to enable the effect of adding curved corners to be seen.

 

(Edit - for some reason I changed the platform configuration compared to the plan, bear that in mind as your plan needs more space)

 

mitch layout test.jpg

Edited by RobinofLoxley
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Thank you for the anyrail shots.

 

I am confident I can fit the tracks in - as Everard Junction had 14 tracks in the same space - I know he recently changed his out due to some of his modern stock derailing, however as stated I am running older stock designed down to radius 1 curves so should be OK still.

 

I should be able to test out the fiddle yard this weekend as the tables will be ready (if I manage to sort the legs out by Friday).

 

So far I have built all 10 table frames and 1 has had 1 leg added.  (pic of 5 of the 10 frames)

 

 

 

20230205_124753.jpg

Edited by Mitche01
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  • RMweb Gold

I helped design a fiddle yard for a friend with 18 roads. All of them have set track curved points at each end and then go into a scissors crossing immediately followed by a spiral. We've never had any problems with anything coming off on the points even when a train has broken away and run backwards down the spiral. Each set of points goes in the same direction - ie no reverse curves. It is a continental layout with very long coaches with quite shallow flanges as well. I think you will be fine.

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

All track beds now completed.

 

Next job is the cork and fully laying the fiddle yard.

 

I have measured up and can fit 15 lanes in, so will make 4 lanes on the 2 fast lines and then a 4 and a 3 on the slower lines.

 

 

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20230311_154633.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Fiddle Yard laying ongoing, many tools used to help get the track straight. 

 

Tracksetta 

adjustable gauges

1m steel rule

 

and using Piko track screws to hold down the track, this way it should be easy if I make a mistake or get poor running to adjust.

 

I am testing as I go and already changed the left hand side 2nd lane. All I can say is Hornby set track is not a patch on peco set track and peco flexi track!

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20230406_190257.jpg

Edited by Mitche01
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Fiddle Yard completed, all points have 10mm holes drilled for point motor fitment later, all the straight track in the yard has had dropper wires fitted to avoid poor electrical connections and will be switchable once i have completed the wiring.20230414_163714.jpg.63c163527a41f31a871fd7149b75acd7.jpg20230414_163717.jpg.40c9604c3d60e2e98479d98490a9214e.jpg20230414_163718.jpg.3ed062d881e9d9d935dde2d17d7b5622.jpg20230414_163720.jpg.65d55b9450c630a1f7187402567d0cda.jpg

 

Electrically tested with 0-6-0 tank engine and a Class 91 bo bo - please to say it all works.

20230414_171626.jpg.413c1255cec0be5651cd88e371baa63c.jpg

Some issues I had to overcome - having bought the curved points second hand, a few of them had continuity problems so tweeking the small tangs to make better contact sorted that out.20230412_204653.jpg.85975d3c2003454b57928415214e0abf.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Lines starting to take shape - the distance between tracks is 55mm on these bends which gives a worst case 4mm gap on a old Hornby mk4 and mk3 passing on the tightest bends (which in reallity will not be happening as these lines are the "slow" lines so express trains will be on the other 2 lines with far greater radii (eg the inner "concrete" line is 24inches ~ 4th radius curves).

 

20230426_180912.jpg.790499db170ab8b5383709720298d66d.jpg20230426_180944.jpg.61ae06b574dd80d318e960d5dda52f1d.jpg20230426_181013.jpg.2e2d2fc756f685edfc1d4717557725b4.jpg

 

I am adding banking to the curves, but my tip would be when gluing down the track - glue one edge only flat and lay all your curves to check clearance/interference with your longest rolling stock (dont forget the APT-E (which i have on good authority from Rapido directly that it overhangs 32mm from radius 2 curves). then add the banking with either wedges or the west hill wagon works wedges etc...

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