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Still working on updateing older loco's and now onto a DMU 101.. that needs it

 

the plan is to:

1. replace all bogies

2. add a spud bogie with coreless motor to replace old motor

3. add more surface and underframe detail

4. add lighting

5. flush glassing

 

so stage 1 is now under way (after finishing a update to old lms 8f, will post that on in a bit)

 

And i have a draft of the new bogie, dose not need to be over detailed, as dmu is not, so get it to a mid level of detail should be ok, 

 

NOTE: wrong wheels atm as they need to be ordered (14.1mm 4 hole solid Hornby ones) 

 

so now to order motor and gears :)

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30 minutes ago, Halvarras said:

 

14.1mm for a DMU.....?

oops.. did i get that wrong ? :)  just googled it again and found https://www.clag.org.uk/wheelbase.html and yep should be 3'0" .... must have been one comment on one of the many pages i read about updating traing stuff... mind you not looking for 100% accurate model as traing body isn't :)

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5 hours ago, calvin Streeting said:

 mind you not looking for 100% accurate model as traing body isn't :)

 

Understood! That's why the power car of mine has cut-down Lima Class 117 engine mouldings with a not-so-cut-down Hornby Class 110 centre car middle bit under the trailer! My view is, they simply look 'busier' than what was there before, and that's good enough.

 

Trouble with Tri-ang stuff is, buffer height tends to be 2mm too high anyway and inserting 14mm wheels instead of 12mm (even if more accurate, e.g. Mark 1 coaches) Jacks it up another mm. I appreciate that you are 3D printing your own bogies here - and very nice they look too - but as you've discovered, 12mm is more appropriate for BR DMU stock.

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I orderd some 12.6 mm ones i could find.. and will use the 14.1 on some old coaches so all good.. but thanks for point it out before i go into batch printing all 6 of them :) need to check nem hieght etc.. (not that it wil be coupled to anything other than its self. need order motor and gears as want to see if single or dual motor bogies will be needed. kinda finding it fun to get these old models back on the rails, with updated runing gear and motors etc.. 

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Just remembered I recently took this photo of mine as a record of what it has looked like for the past..... (ahem).... 'several years', before it finally got a coat of primer a couple of weeks ago, as a statement of intent [to get it finished at last!]:

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The bogies are Hornby Class 110, one of which has a Lima motor bogie embedded in it (without traction tyres, but extra weight added). The other wheels are of unknown manufacture, similar to Lima but slightly finer flanges. It has also been fitted with MTK plastic buffers and the contents of a Lima Class 101 detail pack (exhaust pipes, bogie steps - wipers to add after painting). Since I intend to run it on a compact layout its shortness may be an advantage.

 

Following yours with much interest, especially those motor bogies.....

Edited by Halvarras
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12 hours ago, calvin Streeting said:

Still working on updateing older loco's and now onto a DMU 101.. that needs it

 

the plan is to:

1. replace all bogies

2. add a spud bogie with coreless motor to replace old motor

3. add more surface and underframe detail

4. add lighting

5. flush glassing

 

so stage 1 is now under way (after finishing a update to old lms 8f, will post that on in a bit)

 

And i have a draft of the new bogie, dose not need to be over detailed, as dmu is not, so get it to a mid level of detail should be ok, 

 

NOTE: wrong wheels atm as they need to be ordered (14.1mm 4 hole solid Hornby ones) 

 

so now to order motor and gears :)

 

20240827_120406.jpg

 

 

Wow, the bogie looks very impressive.

 

Here is my take on the same model.

Met-CamLW1.jpg.635af73b79d2de061f630c6ab5a09e18.jpg

 

I have bunged my one on Hornby 110 bogies and power unit. I have a Lima 101 DMC undergubbins to fit to the DMBS. The DTS will get something scratchbuilt (possibly).

The windows are a tad under 1/4 mm too short length wise so Tri-ang took most the missing length out of the spaces between the windows.  I cut between the widows and added bits from a Tri-ang Mk1 coach. It is also 1mm too high, thankfully it is all at the cant level so that was lopped off, I also had to take 1mm out the height of the cabs. The roof was lengthened with some cuts off a Mainline coach roof, on the real thing there are no vents over the doorways. Still a lot to do but hopefully it will look more like a Met-Cam lightweight than it did before I started.

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update

atm, working on new underframes details (being drawn atm)

 

what are you lot doing about the glazzing. I saw South East Finecast make some (vacuum formed by looks of it), but also heard of arfix ones (part unknown) also working that seem to be cast versions. or could sand down the sides from inside to thin them down 

 

I might even look at transparent resin for printer, but thats a big erm... :) but this is once i have motor and gears done.

 

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For speed I'm going to use the SEF Flushglaze, which is standing by, although I'm aware of the downsides of this product. Having already used it on a 4-car set some years ago (which included a Buffet Car conversion) I found the small top panes a poor fit so on my 2-car I've filed out these openings, as can be seen in my photo. Time will tell if I've filed them enough......

 

I believe the Airfix windows were from the railbus kit, but this would only be cost-effective if Dapol could be persuaded to supply some glazing sprues. 'If you don't ask you don't get' I suppose, but I don't know whether they are still producing the railbus kit......

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  • 2 weeks later...
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  • 2 weeks later...

It's one the rails... and it runs :) got to work out weights over drive wheels.. wait for some more bearings to do mid (another slow boat from china) and rear dummy car (option of dual motors to improve pulling if needed as only ever going to be a 3 set car.. oh and look at noise on gears and motor.. but it dose move yay..

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3 hours ago, uax6 said:

The silencer looks large on your 3d print. Here's the original design: https://www.railcar.co.uk/images/18164

 

Andy g

 

nice photo... I will reduce its Diameter and might look at reducing diameter of pipe as well (but dont want to go to thin)  :)  i also need to check it dose not foul bogie when goes under buffer beam :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

update time :)

as still awaiting slow boot form China with bearings.

 

redrew motor bogie mount to add space for felt noise damping around motor..

made exhausts baffles smaller (and not round bit more oval baffle shape),

drew a motor mounting bracket, after I found that the floor section above rear bogie on dummy car was removable, so made the housing fit that :) (in 2 versions one with seat backs on and one for guard area) .

got some buffer details drawn and test printed.

 

so now onto lightings. :) and a question about headlights, the pattern of dots on the front, suggesting that it can do all standard BR head codes but not sure it would be a freight or royal train :) so do they all light up ? or just reflectors?

 

before I drill all the holes :)

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

still working on this when i can find the time.

 

ok so i think i have the lighting worked out. I am planning to inter connect the 3 cars with wires between them, so designed a strip board pcb to sort the resistors and diodes (used to make interiro lights work in both forward and reverse), (light blead will be fixed latter with black tack. paint etc.)

 

boggies are alos being tweeked for easyer servicing, but i am having dcc decode issues with the coreless motor (so need to either workout this gaugemaster decoder cv's or find a different brand.

 

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