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N gauge point motors and wiring them


Black Sheep

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I'm currently building an N gauge layout using Peco code 80 rail (got some older locos and stock hence not using 55) the track is all new and I'm looking at fitting point motors but I don't know much about wiring them.

 

main questions are:

 

1) which point motors would you recommend and why? I can get normal peco ones through work with a slight discount but would consider other motors if there is a good reason to.

 

 

2) I was thinking of making a control board that has ON-OFF-ON switches to power the track, switching between two controllers or isolating that section - a system that served me well in 00

as such I was wondering if I could put switches on the same control board (painting them a different colour) that are ON-ON switches for the point motors or would this damage the motor?

I was under the impression that the motor cut the circuit once it had moved but don't want to start burning out point motors.

 

3) how simple is it to wire them? is it just a matter of a power supply (will be using gaugemaster controllers that have a 12v supply on them) through a capacitor to the switch, throw the switch completing the circuit?

 

Thanks.

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Hi

With solenoid point motors you normally use (On)-Off-(On) toggle switches. Bracketed (On) being non locking in the bracketed position. Or passing contact levers such as the Hornby R044 black lever or Peco PL26 types.

It is not recommend to use locking toggle switches as if left if in 'On' position the motors coil receives a feed continuously, this will very quickly burn out that motors coil!

 

If you wish to remain with solenoid motors the the Peco PL10 has a proven record of many years use. But it does need an accessory switch fitted if point frog switching is needed or indications back to the mimic panel. e.g Peco PL13 or better the Peco PL15.

 

The other alternative is to use a 'Stall' type motors, such as a Tortoise or Cobalt etc. Here a standard On-On toggle switch is used (locking in both directions).

The only possible downsides with these stall motors are their physical size under baseboard and their individual price. But this often can be off set by bulk buying.

 

My web site shows wiring for all types.

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Hi Blacksheep,

 

Seep are another make of solenoid point motors and these are the ones I use as they have the frog polarity switching facility built into them as opposed to the Peco motor which requires an accessory switch.

 

Seep make several types of motors but the ones I use are the PM1s which are designed for use with Peco points and the over-centre spring. They work out slightly cheaper than the Peco motor plus Accessory Switch.

 

If I had the money I would go for the new Cobalt motors from DCC Concepts (available from Bromsgrove Models in the UK). They are probably the best slow action motor on the market at the moment.

 

I see you are operating with DC but here's a picture of my wiring diagram for DCC which will not be significantly different for DC. You will note that I use bi-colour LEDs in my Control Panel (See picture below) to indicate whether a road is Open (Green) or Closed (Red). I also use MASTERswitches (from DCC Concepts) which incorporates a CDU to operate the points and also controls the LEDs.

 

post-10334-0-52700900-1293232838_thumb.jpg

 

post-10334-0-35948600-1293233144_thumb.jpg

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Thanks for your replies,

 

I'm not familiar with the different types of point motor.

 

the layout is to be wired in such a way that one direction on the switch will turn a section on for one controller, switching it the other direction switches it on for the other, and centered it isolates the section, as such I don't think I need frog switching as i'll be powering the points as part of a section, and possibly the crossings on the main line as a separate section using insulfrog points to be sure of no interference between the two running lines.

 

would solenoid motors work using sprung switches?

so to set a route, you'd just work your way along the control board turning sections on to the controller you're going to use and pressing point switches in the desired direction so that it'll change the points if needed but not damage if they're already set the required direction.

 

hope i'm still making sense...?

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I'm not familiar with the different types of point motor.

 

would solenoid motors work using sprung switches?

hope i'm still making sense...?

 

 

I would suggest that instead of using the DPDT toggle switches that I have shown, you use push-buttons.

 

You will just have to be careful not to hold them down for too long as that will eventually burn out the motor.

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I find that the sprung toggle switches are nearly impossible to obtain.

It's possible to wire solenoid point motors through contacts so that the current is broken when the point is changed. However, this uses a set (or two) of contacts and can create problems if the point motor stalls in the middle with both contacts off.

I use the Peco stud and probe with Capacitor Discharge. I've also worked with push buttons but ran into problems with the push buttons disintegrating mechanically and sticking on -- possibly due to excess current/arcing or just bad soldering.

One of my stations uses finger power with microswitches operated by the tie rod.

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I find that the sprung toggle switches are nearly impossible to obtain.

<Snip>

Hi

In the UK (I note you're Canadian based) there are several good suppliers of sprung to centre off toggle switches. - Rapid, Maplin and RS Components, Farnell are but four. All offer postal delivery, I'm sure they all will post to Canada, at a reasonable cost?

Or there is the the NRM shop Link to NRM shop

Rapid home page

Maplin home page

RS Components home page

Farnell home page

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So the sprung on off on toggle switches will work?

 

do i need a capacitor fitted into the circuit?

 

You don´t need a capacitor but it´s well worth having one. It will

eliminate any danger of motor burn out, and more importantly the

action will be very positive with no "buzz" as the point throws.

 

I get my sprung toggle switches from Antics - I believe they´re sold

as "center biassed".

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You don´t need a capacitor but it´s well worth having one. It will

eliminate any danger of motor burn out, and more importantly the

action will be very positive with no "buzz" as the point throws.

 

I get my sprung toggle switches from Antics - I believe they´re sold

as "center biassed".

 

 

I thought Expo might supply them and checked at work the other day so have found a supply, thanks :)

 

 

I'll probably be back at some point to ask how to wire it all together :)

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