mikemeg Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 Hmmm, thinks ... I guess the conical roof of a Kentish oasthouse is no more than an extreme version of a tapered boiler Rod, Hmmmm, thinks? - shades of bluebottle here? Oh yes, in much the same way that a wheel rim is a very short pipe. Mind you if Edward Thompson had been in charge of oast house design, then we might have seen the parallel roofed oast house; probably as effective as a chocolate tea pot. Oh but this thread is getting silly; anyone got a picture of a model we can put up? Cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 Just to get this thread back (and I'm really only joking for I do enjoy the asides) to some models, here are another couple of heavily 'bashed' Bachmann locos. The J39 has been done as per the spec for the B1's, including the boiler bands, glazing, etc. This thing has full inside motion, though it's non working. Needless to say, this was a Hull loco in 1950. The J72 has been less heavily modified, though I did re-make the footplate steps and added the rear sandbox, which was present on the 1950 built batch of these locos. This has the Mainly Trains etched chassis and 108:1 gearbox. It does go very slowly; so slowly that even the video looks like a still. Just completing a J71 using the same approach. Cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iak Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 Nice That J39 looks the biz - a Bradmann special as well to boot Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 Nice That J39 looks the biz - a Bradmann special as well to boot Iak, Many thanks for the comments. I've got another three Bachmann J39's to do, as per this one, but using those 3500 gallon tenders, so J39/1's. Will I live long enough to do all of these ? Cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iak Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 3.... And that one you've already done... And I was thinking 2 was going to be a lot of work Your welcome mon, its just nice to see things like this finished and working. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 3.... And that one you've already done... And I was thinking 2 was going to be a lot of work Your welcome mon, its just nice to see things like this finished and working. But I might not do all three in the one go. Do 'economies of scale' - awful pun I know - actually apply in model making, certainly they did when I built the three tenders. Cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wizard of the Moor Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 Mike, I'm interested in the 'stripping tool' that you made for carving off the boiler bands. Is this just a piece of brass made into a chisel, or something more subtle? What advantage(s) does it have over a scalpel blade or similar for this job? As I have a stack of J39s/B1s and so on to do I guess that they will all need the boiler band treatment Cheers, James Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 Hi Mike. Just found this thread. Obviously, I'll be watching with interest at your progress. I won't say they're looking good at the moment, as I'm sure there will be many more opportunity for this later in the thread. In the mean time, I'll say keep smiling as you carve away all those spare bits. Talking of spare bits, a certain L1 will need some B1 style cylinders if you're scrapping any??? Cheers. Sean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 Hello Mike, I managed to take over 300 shots of the B1 Mayflower today. So if you need any detail shots, please let me know and I`ll sort out what you need. This now paves the way for a 7mm version, scratchbuilt of course, a thread to start imminently. You would`nt happen to have any photo`s of 61032 Stembok in your collection at all ?. Regards Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted November 16, 2009 Author Share Posted November 16, 2009 Mike, I'm interested in the 'stripping tool' that you made for carving off the boiler bands. Is this just a piece of brass made into a chisel, or something more subtle? What advantage(s) does it have over a scalpel blade or similar for this job? As I have a stack of J39s/B1s and so on to do I guess that they will all need the boiler band treatment Cheers, James The stripping tool is made from nickel silver (around .020" - it's the fret from an etch). The advantages over a scalpel; given that I haven't used a scalpel? The tool is fairly blunt and therefore does not 'dig into' the plastic of the body. Also, the end is rounded, as opposed to the scalpel which is pointed and sharp and is, I think, easier to use and to keep away from rivet detail. This is the tool recommended by Dave Bradwell in one of the instruction sets for his kits and, I have to say, has worked well so far. Cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wizard of the Moor Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 Thanks, Mike. I'll give it a try on the set of moulded handrails that need to be replaced. Cheers, James Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 Hello Mike, I managed to take over 300 shots of the B1 Mayflower today. So if you need any detail shots, please let me know and I`ll sort out what you need. This now paves the way for a 7mm version, scratchbuilt of course, a thread to start imminently. You would`nt happen to have any photo`s of 61032 Stembok in your collection at all ?. Regards Ian As it happens .... though I think Mick Nicholson may already have sent you this. Anyway, 61032 Stembok at Hessle some time in 1964. Regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 Hello Mike, Yes it is the same photo Mick sent me, but thanks all the same anyway. Are you progressing with the B1`s again now ?. Kindest Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted December 2, 2009 Author Share Posted December 2, 2009 Hello Mike, Yes it is the same photo Mick sent me, but thanks all the same anyway. Are you progressing with the B1`s again now ?. Kindest Ian Ian, Progress is slow on the B1's while I complete the various signals which I am building. Nonetheless some progress is being made, during the enforced lulls in the signal building, and I am now setting about some of the larger items on detailing the bodies. First job is to replace the chimney, dome and smokebox door on each body with the lost wax brass castings contained in the kit and which, like all else in these kits, are quite exquisite. They do need fettling just to get the radius right for a tight sit on the boiler and smokebox but that's true of any casting. Just roll some fine emery around a tube of the diameter of the boiler and rub the casting over it until it has exactly the same radius. Next job, on both bodies will be to drill out for the new buffers and reduce the lamp irons to scale proportions and also 'feather' the visible edges of the front buffer beams. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 Mike. Where did you get the smokebox doors from? Thought I might get hold of one for the L1 if they're available? Cheers. Sean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 Mike. Where did you get the smokebox doors from? Thought I might get hold of one for the L1 if they're available?... Dave Bradwell. He supplies them on a sprue with other castings from the B1 chassis kit. Click here - Moulds 8 and 9 are what you'll want. No stopping you getting castings from all the other kits for your other projects! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted January 4, 2010 Author Share Posted January 4, 2010 Mike. Where did you get the smokebox doors from? Thought I might get hold of one for the L1 if they're available? Cheers. Sean. Sean, Apologies for the delay in replying - I was away from the e-mail. As Horsetan has said, these smokebox door castings are available from David Bradwell. Might be worth you checking the V1 chimney and dome against the B1 versions of the same to see if the Bradwell chimney and dome castings are nearer to the L1 and would add to that 'Thompson' look and feel. Cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 Sean, Apologies for the delay in replying - I was away from the e-mail. As Horsetan has said, these smokebox door castings are available from David Bradwell. Might be worth you checking the V1 chimney and dome against the B1 versions of the same to see if the Bradwell chimney and dome castings are nearer to the L1 and would add to that 'Thompson' look and feel. Cheers Mike Hi Mike. Thanks for the above. I have a chimney and dome (and snifter valve) for the L1. I did e mail DB yesterday to see if I could get the parts needed to correct the valve gear on bith my K1 and the L1, (I think they're both the same, or nearer to whats currently fitted), but he reckoned it was not financially viable to supply. I'll be having a look at the DMR or ABS parts instead though and see if they could help. Cheers though. Sean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted January 4, 2010 Author Share Posted January 4, 2010 Sean, No I'm not aware of DB supplying any of his etched parts as separate offerings. I'm bound to say that looking at the etched coupling rods, connecting rods and valve gear, this looks like a challenge; not least drilling all of those 0.3 mm holes. That said, the instructions with the kit are as good as anything I've ever seen so it can only be my lack of competence if these chassis' don't turn out right. The clearances between the wheels, connecting rods and valve gear could be a challenge (flush faced crank pin nuts on the leading driving wheels, methinks), especially as I am building these chassis' for P4. Anyway, we'll see how this progresses over the next couple of months. Cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 ....I did e mail DB yesterday to see if I could get the parts needed to correct the valve gear on bith my K1 and the L1,.....but he reckoned it was not financially viable to supply..... It wouldn't be viable, as the valve gear etched parts are on the same fret as the chassis applicable to the engine, so he'd end up having to split a complete fret. On the other hand, you might be able to commission him to do a dedicated valve gear fret only from scratch - he did this for Chris Pendlenton's mostly-scratchbuilt model of Thompson A2/2 "Thane of Fife". It would cost a fair amount, though...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 Thats going to have to be the clincher, the end cost. I'm making enquiries though, so will see what comes, (and post it on my thread instead of hijacking yours AGAIN Mike ). The bonus is, if I manage to source the parts, I hope to be able to build them away from the model, so as a first foray into motion construction, not too daunting. I don't envy you though Mike, it all looks very complex to a novice like me. Sure it will all turn out fine if your intricate signals are owt to go by. Cheers. Sean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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