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Thoughts on Ballast.


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Could any one give thoughts on pros/cons of types of ballast for 00 gauge. The shelf layout has now taken on a life of it's own. Originally it was only on one wall of the room. Now it will be going all around!! Main station,steam,diesel MPD on one side then double track around on shelving for the rest.

 

I've used ballast sheets for the main area but as good as they are they don't really look convincing and will proberly come out. Has anyone used the Gaugemaster ballast rolls?(expensive as they are) Or will it come down to the PVA loose ballast method.

 

Any thoughts would be helpful.

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I have used the gaugemaster ballast rolls they sort of look alright

but in a flat sort of way.They were a bit of a problem sticking at first

but found slightly diluted pva and left to soak a bit like the old wallpapering.

I then wanted the track to look more realistic so raised track by cork the ballasted

usual method fine sprayed the ballast with water then the diluted pva only problem

was that the ballast roll absorbed the water and the glue spread more than I hoped for

which discoloured the ballast roll.

Might just of been the way I did things don't know if this is of any help or confused more

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go for ballast one scale size lower that what you are modelling in. It usually is supplied over size. So for OO get N gauge ballast.

 

Forget sponge underlay, or ballast mats - I think they are sold for the instant trainset market. (and good for that)

Go to the trouble of laying granular and making the effort to colour and weather it to look like the real thing - not easy but makes all the difference.

 

You can always crush and sieve your own - to get really cheap (free) ballast.

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Hi rhubarb

Some say use cork as it can cut down the noise and give the track a shoulder

others might disagree that there is no difference.

I found the cork quiet but once ballasted it was noisy do'nt know if the pva mix

was wrong.It did give a sort of realistic noise of trains on rails.

I am sure there will be more knowledgeable members who could give you more advice

but it maybe up to your own personal preference

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I think that the ballast-glue mixture sets very hard and transmits the sound to the baseboard, negating all the sound-deadening qualities of the cork. I've suggested putting wax paper along the sub-roadbed while ballasting to keep things separate; I've never tried it and haven't heard if anyone has.

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I started using Peco and 'one size below' is certainly the best option. However I found that after I started the Peco ballast changed from batch to batch. How to describe this? - The original was small chippings, but the later batches were of a more flaked nature and didn't look as good.

 

I hunted around for alternatives and began using the Woodland scenic's range. I found this to be excellent but the one size down rule doesn't apply. It also must be "wet" before you apply the glue. (Rubbing alcohol worked best). There are a number of colours in the range and they can be mixed and blended. All in all I was pleased with it , so worth considering.

 

John

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I started using Peco and 'one size below' is certainly the best option. However I found that after I started the Peco ballast changed from batch to batch. How to describe this? - The original was small chippings, but the later batches were of a more flaked nature and didn't look as good.

 

I hunted around for alternatives and began using the Woodland scenic's range. I found this to be excellent but the one size down rule doesn't apply. It also must be "wet" before you apply the glue. (Rubbing alcohol worked best). There are a number of colours in the range and they can be mixed and blended. All in all I was pleased with it , so worth considering.

 

John

Thanks Sulzer27jd,

Followed link to your photo's. The ballasting does look good. I may try Woodland Scenics products then. This is our first attempt at modelling for 20+ years! May be taking on a large project! Never mind i'll give it a go. The sweeping curves on your layout may make me re-think ours (we've only got track down not fastened as yet).

 

Thanks for help.

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I've used cork underlay on my layout - I agree with comments above about soud deadening... personally I think it helps with the 'look' of the lines, particularly if mainlines rather than a small freight yard. Adding a few mm of height adds a bit of interest and produces a useful shoulder effect when the ballast is applied.

 

I'd also suggest ballasting a small inconspicuous section first, so that you can practise without danger of making a mess. Once set, there is no easy way of removing it - and remember to pay particular attention around points.

 

Hope thsi helps

 

Pat

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Why pay for ballast - read this from Chris Nevard's website , he's talking about his Combwich layout:

'The track was then ballasted using fine sand from the beach, laying it dry and then applying diluted PVA to bond it in the usual manner. Most proprietary ballast is far too coarse - hence the use of sand (of the beach variety) washed and then filtered with an old tea strainer. Ballasting with beach sand is easier than with granite chippings mainly because the sand grains are slightly rounded and tend to bed in level around the sleepers with a lot more ease. The sand was obtained from the shores of the Solent, it having a pleasing pale warm grey colour, not yellow, as we might tend to think. The set ballast was dulled down using diluted matt enamel paints to represent oil and grime, depending on the area. Sidings were treated in a similar fashion but using very finely ground real ash and clinker from various preserved railways including the ashes from the barbeque!'

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