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Older Hornby Hymek


Colin A  Richardson

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Hi Everyone, Its another request for decoder installation help i'm afraid, this time on the older Hornby Hymek, i'm struggling with this one so would be greatful for any help. I thought i seen a thread on this one some time ago but i dont seem to be able to find it.

 

Regards, Colin.

 

 

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  • RMweb Gold

Which 'older' Hornby Hymek do you mean? Is it the original with a cast metal bogie and open frame double worm motor or the later version with the first generation Ringfield motor?

 

Geoff

 

Hi Everyone, Its another request for decoder installation help i'm afraid, this time on the older Hornby Hymek, i'm struggling with this one so would be greatful for any help. I thought i seen a thread on this one some time ago but i dont seem to be able to find it.

 

Regards, Colin.

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Hi Geoff, Its the one with the double worms. I have noticed that one of the brushes is connected to the chassis via the pickup, could it be this that is causing the short one the decoder is installed, and if this was isolated you could install the decoder as normal?

 

Regards, Colin.

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Yes, power is applied to one brush via the chassis through the spring circled below

 

post-6717-12584599366359_thumb.jpg

 

easiest thing to do is add another insulating sleeve as already exists on the other brush completely isolating the spring from the brushes. of course you will now not be getting the chassis pickup at all so you should arrange for a suitable wire from the chassis to the red or black decoder wire ......

 

 

 

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Thank you for your thanks Colin, but it was Redgate Models who beat me to the answer. If you bear in mind that the overriding principle regarding the installation of decoders is that at NO TIME must the Orange and Grey wires make a connection with the track, either through the pickups or the chassis, then you should avoid damaging the decoder. Your first task is always to ensure that the motor connections are completely isolated from the track.

Older mechanisms such as this Hornby one are generally not too difficult to deal with. Split chassis mechanisms such as used by Bachmann and others require a little more work. In the case of the Bachmann units you will have to dismantle the chassis and split the two halves to remove the small springs which make the contact between the motor and the chassis halves. Having done this you can solder the orange and grey wires to the motor brush contacts and insulate them to ensure that there can be no contact with the chassis casting before reassembling the chassis. All that remains then is to make a connection to each of the chassis halves for the red and black decoder wires. I believe older Mainline split chassis are a little more challenging but I haven't tackled one so I cannot comment more.

Hope this helps.

 

Geoff

 

That explains it beautifully Geof, I will get cracking, and many thanks.

Colin.

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