Glue for attaching etched NS sides to a plastic body

[Karhedron]

Please can anyone help advise me on the best glue to use for fixing etched nickel silver overlays to a plastic coach body?

 

The instructions recommend cyanocryalte but I am concerned about how fast setting this stuff is. If I don't get the alignment right first time then I doubt I would be able to remove the sides with wrecking them as they are only 10 thou.

 

I wondered if some sort of evo-stick might work? Ideally I am looking for something that will set in about 5 minutes giving me a chance to get the alignment 100%.

 

Any advice or suggestions greatly appreciated.

[eastworld]

Gel type superglue - it sets slower so leaves time to move things. It also flows less easily so doesn't get where you don't want it so much. I've used it for joining diecast metal and styrene, and brass and styrene, and it seems to make a pretty good joint.

 

Stu

[Poor Old Bruce]

I am told (so hearsay rather than my personal experience) that one problem with superglue is that it is inflexible when set so that while it should be OK for smaller conponents I would be wary of fixing large coach sides with it as differential expansion of the different component parts could cause the joint to fail eventually. Having said that, I would not be surprised to learn that gallons of the stuff are used to hold satelites together.

 

I have used Evo-Stick Time Bond and Dunlop Thixofix (if that is what they are still called) which are a gel type rather than the horrible stringy stuff. They do take more than five minutes to set though.

 

Richard

[sagaguy]

Hi,Although i model in "n",I use 3m spraymount,(not my idea,got it from mr.Hedges).I put a strip of masking tape along the windows on the back of the etch,2 coats of adhesive,remove tape & place in position.You can move it about as well with no glue on the windows.

 

Ray.

[Pinkmouse]

I am told (so hearsay rather than my personal experience) that one problem with superglue is that it is inflexible when set so that while it should be OK for smaller conponents I would be wary of fixing large coach sides with it as differential expansion of the different component parts could cause the joint to fail eventually.

 

Hmm, I feel a mini Mythbusters coming on.

 

Frankly I suspect the problems may be due in part to differential expansion, but the underlying cause is likely to be insufficient bonding due to finger grease or mould release agent on the plastic parts. CA is a very strong adhesive if used correctly, as can be seen by it's widespread use in the Aerospace industry. So just make sure your parts are clean, (use a lanolin free detergent, so no washing up liquid!), and perhaps even give them a key with 600 grit sandpaper, and you should be fine. As for the positioning issue, I'd clamp them together first in the correct alignment, then use thin CA run in from the edges by capillary action.

[Steven B]

Please can anyone help advise me on the best glue to use for fixing etched nickel silver overlays to a plastic coach body?

 

The instructions recommend cyanocryalte but I am concerned about how fast setting this stuff is. If I don't get the alignment right first time then I doubt I would be able to remove the sides with wrecking them as they are only 10 thou.

 

I wondered if some sort of evo-stick might work? Ideally I am looking for something that will set in about 5 minutes giving me a chance to get the alignment 100%.

 

Any advice or suggestions greatly appreciated.

 

 

I've used both cyanocryalte super glues and evo-stick to glue nickel silver and brass overlays to Farish coach bodies. I prefer evo-stick though - less chance of getting yourself stuck to the model. I've not had any trouble with the superglued sides coming off due to different heat expansion rates but it may be more of an issue in the larger scales. I like the idea of Evo-Stick Time Bond giving you a bit of fiddling time so will have to try it next time.

 

Double sided sticky tape can also be used but you have to get the alignment perfect first time.

 

Out of interest, what are you working on?

 

Happy modelling,

 

Steven B.

[Jeff Smith]

From personal experience be very careful when using Evo-Stick type impact adhesives with polystyrene as it will eventually soften it as I found out when using it to add ballast to plastic kit wagons etc. It's ok in thin applications and it may well not attack some of the plastics used by the RTR manufacturers.

[PaulCheffus]

Please can anyone help advise me on the best glue to use for fixing etched nickel silver overlays to a plastic coach body?

 

The instructions recommend cyanocryalte but I am concerned about how fast setting this stuff is. If I don't get the alignment right first time then I doubt I would be able to remove the sides with wrecking them as they are only 10 thou.

 

I wondered if some sort of evo-stick might work? Ideally I am looking for something that will set in about 5 minutes giving me a chance to get the alignment 100%.

 

Any advice or suggestions greatly appreciated.

 

Hi

 

I prefer the 5 minute Araldite Rapid. Having tried Evostick I found that it could sometimes become unbonded over time.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[Karhedron]

Out of interest, what are you working on?

I am working on a pair of Bernie Taylor's kits to convert the Dapol B-set coaches in GWR K40 full brakes. I got sidetracked by a D600 but now it is finished I will get back onto these again.