Adhesive for plastic kits!

[Mallard60022]

I know this is a bit sad, but I have not built a plastic kit for years. However, I was so 'taken' by the Chivers Dia 120 Gresley 4 wheel full brake that I had to have one! I've got Mek Pak, Pro Scale Micro Weld and Butanone (which I've used for track building) and some Unibond adhesive. I don't have the old polystyrene cement I used to use for Airfix kits. What do you skilled builders recommend for the Chivers van so I don't melt it?

Thanks, PR.

[demufounder]

I know this is a bit sad, but I have not built a plastic kit for years. However, I was so 'taken' by the Chivers Dia 120 Gresley 4 wheel full brake that I had to have one! I've got Mek Pak, Pro Scale Micro Weld and Butanone (which I've used for track building) and some Unibond adhesive. I don't have the old polystyrene cement I used to use for Airfix kits. What do you skilled builders recommend for the Chivers van so I don't melt it?

Thanks, PR.

 

Having just built some other kits from the Chivers range I can honestly say that my Humbol Liquid Poly stuck everything a treat, no distortion or melting of any kind.

 

If you get some and it comes with a brush built into the lid don't use it as it's too big, I use an old size 2 paint brush in order that I can hold small pieces and put glue on them.

 

A few words of warning though, use it in a well ventilated room as it's very pungent, a bit like pear-drops. If you don't you'll be as high as a kite.

 

HTH

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

The Mek Pak is ideal for the plastic assembly, neither too aggresive or too mobile. Remember the technique, dry fit the parts to check for a good fit in the correct alignment, run a small amount of solvent into the joint from a fine brush, ( ideally applying it in a location which will not be visible from normal viewing angles) so that the liquid runs into the joint alone by capillary attraction. Allow joint to set sufficiently before handling it.

 

There are several advantages to this technique. It makes a strong enough joint for normal handling, with no risk of any solvent marring surface finishes. Should it be necessary in the future to part dismantle the model for any reason, these joints will usually break out fairly cleanly, or in the case of large joints a further application of solvent will help free them.

 

Metal parts, my choice is Evo-stick used sparingly; (that's the maxi-whiff version which now only seems to come in cans) strong enough, but again detachable should that be necessary at some future time.

[60B]

I find that poly cement/ plastic weld works for the super structure with Superglue for the whitemetal details. I find plastic weld often dries before decent contact can be made and it has a tendency to:

 

A.) Frost up glazing

B.) Remove paintwork/ colouring

And

C.) Distort drivers liscences...

[ArthurK]

I know this is a bit sad, but I have not built a plastic kit for years. However, I was so 'taken' by the Chivers Dia 120 Gresley 4 wheel full brake that I had to have one! I've got Mek Pak, Pro Scale Micro Weld and Butanone (which I've used for track building) and some Unibond adhesive. I don't have the old polystyrene cement I used to use for Airfix kits. What do you skilled builders recommend for the Chivers van so I don't melt it?

Thanks, PR.

Use Slaters MEK or similar. It is a liquid, no stringing. Use a brush of suffient size to do the whole joint. Keep fingers away from the joint whilst you are doing this unles you want a perfect fingerprint! Apply the MEK to the inside of the joint. Keep away from external detail. It will form a prefect weld. I would never use any thing else. I know many people use The Humbrol product but personally I have never taken to it.

[Colin]

Revell do a bottle of liquid poly designed especially for fine work, it has a very narrow nozzle. Apart from occasional clogging (easily sorted with fine wire), I think it's excellent for fixing small detail parts. I'd use Mekpak or Liquid Poly for all other plastic parts.

[Pannier Tank]

I saw this product (Pin Flow) being demonstarted at the warley Show:-

 

http://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/pages/specialistproducts.htm

 

I've not tried one myself though will obtain one when I start on my Parkside kits.

[PaulCheffus]

I use Plastruct's 'Plasweld' liquid cement and regular Loctite superglue. The Plasweld usually makes a good join between most plastic types.

 

The superglue is used with an accelerator to make it cure faster, it also works as a filler on seam lines. I use Superglue for holding the windows in, and is my preference for fixing metal to plastic.

 

Hi

 

I've found Johnson's Klear perfect for gluing windows especially as it doesn't matter if you get some on the glazing.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[Campaman]

I use the Humbrol Liquid Poly with the fine tip for single post into hole type joining, and the Revel liquid that you apply with a brush for longer joins.

 

If you paint clear parts with Johnsons Klear before gluing it helps with the frosting problem.