Taigatrommel Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 I've decided that the upper level of my larger layout could do with alignment dowels, as it's prone to movement relative to the base level, especially with the temperature fluctautions there are in the glorified shed that is a kiwi house. I assume I won't be the first person to attempt this- I think Dagworth has for one. My question is, if anyone has, did you go for precise measurement and drilling when fitting the dowels, or re-align tracks once the dowels are fitted? I'd also like to know how successful the operation was! My tracks aren't ballasted yet, so re-alignment shouldn't be a huge problem. It's just that pulling the layout apart is a time consuming operation! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dagworth Posted December 1, 2009 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 1, 2009 Rich, What we did with Dagworth, and Ravensclyffe where we've found the need to add extras on higher levels, was to drill a suitable hole for the male dowel, insert and fix that, then bolt the boards together as tight as was possible. For the high level dowels where bolts are in the low section of the board bolting two boards together then lifting the other end of one of them helped. The dowel prong will press sufficiently into the wood of the other board to give a pilot hole to drill for the female section of the dowel. Some minor adjustment has been needed on some of the track alignments Andi Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taigatrommel Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 Thanks Andi, Step one: clear layout of junk... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Re6/6 Posted December 1, 2009 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 1, 2009 Have a look here: http://www.rmweb.co....php?f=5&t=51572 I've recently fitted 40 pairs of alignment dowels to our club test track. There are various ways of fitting patternmakers dowels, check out my post as I think that it would be practical for you. It allows plenty of adjustment, before final fixing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taigatrommel Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 Thanks for the link John. I'm using the bullet type dowels, which I bought a pack of ages ago thinking "these will come in handy one day", so unfortunately your safe technique will not work- if I was using the C&L ones, I think it would be great. I have one board without its top level sheet fitted yet, which I was able to clamp to the neighbouring boards and drill right through, assuring alignment. I've backed the dowels up with plenty of epoxy, as I'm not convinced the ribs will prevent them moving long term. I'll let them settle for a couple of days before testing to see whether this works. For the other boards I'll use Andi's method, as it's nice and simple- I'm not a great joiner. I'll take the whole layout down to make it as quick an operation as I can, that'll make sure I've cleared the boards thoroughly! It could also make my life easier on the wiring front if I'm organised. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poor Old Bruce Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 A simple solution is to get some six inch nails (no - seriously), shorten them to match the wood you want them to go through and a bit extra with a bit of a taper for a lead. With the baseboards together and the track aligned, drill a hole with a tight sliding fit and bang 'em in! they should stay put in one board and slide on and off the other. An alternative would be to use those wooden dowels available from DIY shops and treat similarly. These are sill in use on my 25 year old layout. Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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