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Bachmann GWR Toad


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Hi Folks,

As a BR blue modeller, I do not have a great deal of Knowledge of thing GWR, but I am putting together a small rake of local Wiltshire stock.

I am currently working on a Bachmann Toad,a BR bauxite example which I have repainted into GWR Grey, and am currently numbering using Modelmaster decals.

 

I have the following questions ;

Which type does this model most closely match. I am drawn to AA18.

Do I need to change the buffers, id so to which type?

and finally, do anyone produce WESTBURY or CHIPPENHAM decals, of failing that, individual letters that are suitable.

 

Many thanks, Steve

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Hi Steve,

 

The Bachmann Toad matches closely to the AA19 diagram and can easily be converted to AA15 standard. The really great website for such information is:

 

www.gwr.org.uk 

 

The listings section is most helpful! I don't know off hand about buffers, etc but I have a Bachmann Toad plus the GWR Wagon books and when I can get to them this evening, I will look it up - unless someone else gets there before me!

 

As for the transfers, I don't know about preassembled place names but if you get stuck, Fox Transfers do alphabets in a range of sizes and fonts including the BR Gill Sans in several colours that I have used in the past. Their website is:

 

www.fox-transfers.co.uk

 

Hope this helps!

 

All the best,

 

Castle

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Hi (again!) Steve,

 

The Atkins et al A History of GWR Goods Wagons, Volume Two is open again! The design of the AA15 and the AA19 of are closely related and the passage referring to the AA19 of 1927 says that they were basically AA15 but with a great deal of RCH fittings. These included the buffers, draw gear, wheels, axles and axle guards. It also has straight running board mounts instead of the forged and shaped ones of earlier vintage and what is described as a structural steel underframe.

 

There doesn't seem to be a huge amount wrong with the Bachmann model. Lanarkshire Model Supplies could do you some white metal and very detailed buffers. The thick, square section moulded tie bars between the axle boxes could be replaced with a finer brass wire for a better look. I would also pop the body off to glaze the windows. A general tidy up of the mouldings to remove unwanted lines and pips, thinning of some of the edges, some etched brass lamp irons in place of the moulded ones and a repaint is where I would leave it!

 

I hope that this helps!

 

All the best,

 

Castle

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The body (at least on my Mainline one) appears to be fixed with a screw clips and glue. As stated previously, great care is needed to remove the body. It appears to be basically AA18, like the Ratio kit and as such requires GW self contained buffers.

 

The HMRS GWR wagon transfer sheet contains several brake van brandings, but not Westbury or Chippenham IIRC*. It may however be possible to make them up.

 

The moulded detail is rather heavy in my opinion and I wouldn't spend too much time detailing it beyond wheels (10 spoke), glazing and buffers.

 

* I'll check.

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Hi All,

 

I must admit to not attempting to gently mangle, er, I mean remove the body as of yet so thanks for the heads up on that one! As he has already painted it then it is probably best left well alone and perhaps glazed using something like Delux Materials 'Glue and Glaze'?

 

I think that the GWR modelling website states it as AA19 because of the buffers and wheels. As David says, the replacement of the buffers and wheels brings it comfortably enough within the AA18 diagram. L.M.S. do these buffers too and replacement wheels are easy enough to get hold of so if it has to be AA18 then listen to the man! I may well be having a go at backdating mine to the AA15 type. I am sure the guys will correct me here but most of the vans in the AA15 to 20 somethings are fairly similar in everything except details (be careful there though!) and remained so as a design until nationalisation after which the TOADS gradually fell from favour partly due to union pressures although they were still in service long after that time.

 

Steve, once you have decided on which diagram you want to do, let me know if you want suggestions as to numbers as the afore mentioned book (volume one) has listings in it of such things.

 

As to how much you detail it, that is in the eye of the beholder so to speak but as he has already embarked here then it is entirely up to the individual and their skill and confidence levels. That above is just my approach not the right approach... You may find that slightly heavier moulding can help you in terms of weathering the thing and that the weathering (if that is your thing) will disguise that a bit too.

 

I hadn't seen the link for Old Time Workshop transfers that you posted Pete so thanks for that!

 

Post us a picture when you are done Steve!

 

All the best,

 

Castle

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Brilliant responses guys, I will take a more detailed look when I finish work this afternoon.

I actually have mine apart, it wasn't to bad. I will take pictures later showing glue points, as it may help others.

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Checking with 'A History of GWR Goods Wagons', The van is definitely AA18, but fitted with RCH buffers as per AA19. (These look short because the head is excessively domed.)

 

The Brandings on the HMRS sheet are:-

 

Paddington, Acton, Old Oak Common, Reading, Swindon, Cirencester R.U., Banbury, Wolverhampton, Shrewsbury, Moat Lane, Bristol T.M., Newport, Cardiff, Neath, Dowlais Cae Harris, Exeter, Plymouth, Truro & Taunton. It should be possible to make up the ones needed from these, but it is tricky to get them straight.

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Thank you all again. I Have gone for AA19. I think I will purchase the Old time workshop set and do a Westbury Brakevan, as I am going to renumber a couple of loco's as Westbury examples. I have the laserglaze set to for the toad, so will be adding that also.

My late father, a keen EM gauge GWR modeller, left me his book collection, and within was the combined volume of A history of GWR wagons,from which I deduced the type.This is my first GWR project, and my knowledge is virtually non-existant on the subject and on what is available. I need to obtain the spoked wheels, so will get a set of Romfords at the Bristol show on Friday.

Thank you all.

I have added a couple of photo's of work so far. I seperated the body from chassis by inserting a very fine flat bladed jewellers screwdriver between body and chassis to break the glue bond. It can be done! the glue can be seen on the edges of the chasis top. then i used long nosed pliers to move the lugs underneath inboard, and levered off the body.

Also included is a pic of a type AA15 brake van In Em gauge that my father produced from the Ratio kit

post-512-0-23054100-1335885013_thumb.jpg

post-512-0-40354200-1335884737_thumb.jpg

post-512-0-31934000-1335884783_thumb.jpg

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Are you sure that's the Ratio kit, as it looks like the Airfix van to me. This model is an AA13 with slim cast buffers, twin pane windows and J hanger axlebox springs. Mine is no. 56533 and has had sandpipes and instanter couplings added and runs on Ultrascale EM 10 spoke wheels. It makes a nice vehicle and is far superior to the Mainline/Bachmann version IMHO.

 

Time for a new model, perhaps a 16T van, as the old K's kit is long out of production.

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Time for a new model, perhaps a 16T van, as the old K's kit is long out of production.

 

There are etched versions of AA3 (etc) available from Southwark Bridge. Frogmore do something along those lines too.

The Ratio kit can be rather laboriously cut-and-shut to produce an AA3..

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  • 1 year later...
  • RMweb Gold

I've just found out through an article in this months BRM that Shawplan have released some laserglaze to do the windows on this model.If I can get mine apart that is...

 

Part no. is EEFG-GW

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Robin, you need to insert a small flat blade screwdriver between chassis and bodyshell to break the glue bond, traces of which can be seen on the photo of chassis above. Once that is done, it is easy to dis-asssemble

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  • RMweb Gold

Robin, you need to insert a small flat blade screwdriver between chassis and bodyshell to break the glue bond, traces of which can be seen on the photo of chassis above. Once that is done, it is easy to dis-asssemble

I did a similar job on an old Mainline (BR grey) one a few years back and that was quite straightforward. I have a new Bachmann bauxite one on the stocks at the moment but, despite the fact it is largely the same model, it looks a rather more difficult task.   

 

The complete body comes off fairly easily but the floor on mine is glued into the bodyshell VERY securely and it will need great care and several new scalpel blades to separate them without damage. 

 

I'll give it a day or two in the freezer before I start as that sometimes weakens such bonds a bit.

 

There is an article covering a lot of what you are planning for this model in the June issue of BRM which you might find useful. 

 

John

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  • 5 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

Robin, you need to insert a small flat blade screwdriver between chassis and bodyshell to break the glue bond, traces of which can be seen on the photo of chassis above. Once that is done, it is easy to dis-asssemble

Thanks Steve and I've managed to prise it apart.I'll be able to fit the Shawplan laserglaze now.Does anyone have a link to some decent buffers for this too.Lanarkshire were mentioned earlier.

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  • RMweb Gold

It depends which version you're going to do AA15 or AA19?

 

SS

 

AA19.It has a Laira branding but I'm not bothered if its not 100% correct.Just want some better buffers on them.Buffalo has suggested elsewhere that they may have been the RCH type.

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