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South Eastern Finecast N7 tank build.


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It's been nearly 18 months since I gave up loco building, I'd built a chassis to P4 standards but it took me forever & my paitences finally ran out.

Having had a good clear out & selling off all the kits & bits I had I decided to stick to OO gauge as I could get the results with RTR that I wanted & I was happy.

 

Fast forward 18 months to now & I am now well & truly in the realms of the armchair modeller due to time more than anything else. I've been doing a few 7mm narrow gauge models recently & I've really enjoyed building them & they've brought me to the point that I want to attack another loco.

 

Although my next layout project will be 7mm narrow gauge I do want to make a Br eastern region layout at some point. With this in mind I decided to try something small & something that is going to come together relatively quick. I'm not a fan of things with a thousand pieces & take more than a life time to construct so I thought the white metal kit would be a great way to start up kit building again.

 

I've picked up a new complete kit from that famous auction site which has Markits wheels with it & a DS10 motor/gearbox. Having never come across a DS10 before I want to know if they are any good when it comes to guts ?? The loco is only going to pull a couple of coaches maximum or a small freight but I do want something that can at least pull the skin of a rice pudding.

 

Has anyone already built one on the forum & are there any pit falls I need to be aware of before I start ?? I'm curious as to the chassis of the kit too is it a screw together thing like the DJH kits or is it a nicely etched one ??

 

I'd like to finish this model as a BR loco & from the info I have found about them they ran from Leeds to Bradford does anyone know the numbers of the class based in Yorkshire ?

 

I'll keep this as a question & workbench thread then I don't clutter up the forum. I'm hoping the kit should arrive by the end of the week so I can get cracking within the next few weeks.

 

Cheers,

 

Simon.

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The SEF "N7" chassis is an etched one.

 

...... Having never come across a DS10 before I want to know if they are any good when it comes to guts ?? The loco is only going to pull a couple of coaches maximum or a small freight but I do want something that can at least pull the skin of a rice pudding.......

 

I sold a brand new DS10 recently. I wouldn't recommend it in the context of a whitemetal "N7", which will be heavy. I think I read somewhere that it was meant originally for "N" gauge American diesels.

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Thanks for the replys gents.

 

It puzzles me why company's who sell a product suggest something feeble to go with there kit. I've a few motors/gearboxes about so hopefully the big Mashima I have should make the kit glide along nicely with the LRM gearbox.

 

I'm looking forward to building the kit over the winter it should be a nice little project. I'm going to invest in a hobby holidays master chassis jig which should assist in giving me a smooth running chassis.

 

Simon.

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"I'd like to finish this model as a BR loco & from the info I have found about them they ran from Leeds to Bradford does anyone know the numbers of the class based in Yorkshire ?"

 

I have a copy of Jim Grindlay's BR Steam Allocations 1948-1968. The only N7s I can see listed that far north were at 37B Copley Hill in 1955 and are just 4 in number - 69691 and 69694 to 69696. Please drop me a pm if you want a copy of the listing in case I've missed any.

Regards,

Brian.

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Brian.

 

thank you for the numbers, that is what i read elsewhere that only 4 were present here for push pull workings. The Numbers were the problem though as i couldn't find any details about them so thank you again.

 

Alfsboy

 

Thats encouraging to read that you've got the buckjumper running well. Although everyone raves about High Level boxes i am not a fan of plastic gears i prefer a lump of metal. I've found the best boxes in the past were the LRM or the Branchlines boxes the later being my prefered choice.

 

I've got a LRM box built here with a nice big motor & flywheel, so i am going to try this out in the frames first to see if it will fit. Judging by the size of the loco i am hopeful it should sit in no problems driving the central driver.

 

Simon

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Mine now has a Mashima 1628 round can on a Branchlines two stage box on the centre axle. The motor was not exactly chosen, I just happened to acquire one at a good price. It fits very neatly inside the boiler curvature, though I had to lop off the rear shaft and carve away most of the inside of the boiler backhead casting to get it to fit. As compared to the DS10 the running is now easy and quiet; instead of the previous strained note, warmth, and suspicions of imminent burnout.

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I think my choosing a Mashima & new box was a brilliant idea on my part. Looks like the DS10 will head with a high level box to eBay & make me a return for transfers.

 

I'm hoping the big can I have will fit in the model without any hassle even if the flywheel has to come off.

 

Simon

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Today both the kit & the Iain Rice book on building white metal kits arrived at my door & after a brief couple of chapters of the book i decided to give the kit the old once over.

 

I must say i am very impressed with the castings & the kit in general. Everything in the box including markits wheels & a DS10 motor & gearbox.

 

At first i was going to use a big Mashima & London Rd Models gearbox but after offering it up to the frames this is a no go i am afraid its far to big. After a brief pause i decided to put the kit together with all the items that are in the box.

 

I'm a Yorkshireman so i am tighter than a ducks backside as SWMBO keeps telling me so wasting a motor & gearbox is pointless. Having looked over the box & the instructions i decided to get it built up. This is my kind of gearbox, simple & all metal ! People rave about the High Level gearboxes but personally after building one i am not a fan.

 

I like things to be kept simple & the High Level boxe's have far too many bits & plastic gears which instantly puts me off. Although i have every confidence in the High Level boxes being a great performer there not my tipple.

 

Anyway to business.

 

With an hour to spare i thought i would put the gearbox together & see how it performed. It looked a simple enough job but that can be deceiving as i found out with a LRM etch some time ago.

 

Lucky for me this was a complete hassle free job & this motor & gearbox literally feel together with no real troubles thrown up ( again my kind of box )

 

post-8269-0-80574500-1346952031_thumb.jpg

 

post-8269-0-90583400-1346952066_thumb.jpg

 

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I'm really quite please with my work on this tonight, usually when i have not done any modeling for a period of time i need to really get back into the swing of things which means a botch up to start with. This has been no problems what so ever & although it is only a gearbox & a basic one at that i am really happy with how it has turned out.

It's always a pleasure when something works first time round especially when i've not put a gearbox together for the best part of 2 years.

 

Anyway thats all for now its time to get a couple of hours rest in before work tonight.

 

Cheers,

 

Simon

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...This is my kind of gearbox, simple & all metal ! People rave about the High Level gearboxes but personally after building one i am not a fan.

 

I like things to be kept simple & the High Level boxes have far too many bits & plastic gears which instantly puts me off...

 

Technology and technique have moved on quite a lot. Sounds like you'd be happier with RTR?

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Not at all it's just personal preference. What works for one doesn't work for another & personally i prefer something simple like the London Road boxes or Branchlines. I'd replace this one but money is very tight at the moment so i am making do with what i have in front of me. It can always be replaced at a later date should i feel the need to run the loco through the works.

 

Simon

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Thing that interests me about this kit is its accuracy nowadays. I've asked the question before, but never really, as I remember, got a definitive answer. The original Wills N7 was stretched adjusted to fit the then current Triang 0-6-0 chassis. Nowadays, the kit is produced by SEF, and has been upgraded; the original Triang chassis is no more, and DEF sell there own. But have the dimensions been corrected to scale, or is the thing still a compromise?

 

Stewart

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I've scrapped the idea of the DS10 motor because it judders terribly at slow speeds & i don't really want that in a nice model i am building.

 

I've had a good route about in my motors & bits box & dug out a dare i say this, a High Level gearbox & Mashima motor. I've dropped it on the bench, hooked up some power & tested it & i am happy to say it is smooth & relatively silent so i shall persevere. Who knows i might even become a convert ;)

 

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Another part of the puzzle arrived today. I took a good look at the tip of the white metal iron & decided to buy a replacement. I was never happy with the overly large size that came with it as standard so i think the newer small head should offer better results.

Antex are really good as far as service goes & after a brief chat with the customer services lady i made the order online as it was free postage. Nice bit of information there from the customer services team at Antex.

 

Simon

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Oh dear !!!

 

Rice's book on white metal loco kits has been very handy up to press. This afternoon i've had a look over some of the castings & started to clean up any flash & come across some real nastys.

 

First up the boiler half's .....

 

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Rather than being round the boilers are a more oval shape & look like an elephant has sat on them :(

 

Next up the smokebox half's .....

 

post-8269-0-57627200-1347031855_thumb.jpg

 

When i dried run the castings on the footplate i found that the left hand smokebox casting has a lip on the bottom to aid getting it true to the footplate whereas the right hand one doesn't.

 

When i offered up the smokebox door cast & the 2 smokebox side castings i found that they don't line up & sit properly leaving a rather nasty gap at the front.

 

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You can clearly see here the lip & it's role to hold the casting in position whilst the other doesn't.

 

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I tried to clean up all the flash & see if anything could be done to save the parts but nothing is going to work correctly. The boiler half's don't sit in the smokebox & the roundtop firebox casting would not line up neither.

 

I decided to give Se Finecast a ring & what a fantastic service i got. Details given & a set of replacement castings will be posted in due course.

 

I'm glad i have picked up on these parts now so that they can be rectified whilst i start work on the chassis. All being well my Hobby Hoildays master chassis will arrive next week once Phil returns from Telford & then i can get cracking making the chassis roll.

 

Hopefully it'll be plain sailing from here " Famous last word's "

 

Simon

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Thing that interests me about this kit is its accuracy nowadays. I've asked the question before, but never really, as I remember, got a definitive answer. The original Wills N7 was stretched adjusted to fit the then current Triang 0-6-0 chassis. Nowadays, the kit is produced by SEF, and has been upgraded; the original Triang chassis is no more, and DEF sell there own. But have the dimensions been corrected to scale, or is the thing still a compromise?

I would say it is acceptable by whitemetal kit standards. As regards the length and wheelbase this is correct: as I recall the construction the footplate was slightly long at the front end, an extra millimetre of platform measured forward of the front sandboxes, but a little work with a file took most of this away, the bufferbeam is pretty thick. That could simply be variance kit to kit from mould temperature etc. Generally the principal dimensions are correct, there's not the remotest doubt that it looks like a Swedey Met should. Definite faults that you might want to tackle: the cab side window obviously about 20% linear undersize, boiler diameter slightly undersize in the vertical axis, (shows as the underside is too high above the frames) dome both very undernourished and noticeably sporting a 'policeman's helmet' look due to an all too visible taper. I really do mean to replace this last component eventually; it got installed because it went on the boiler with no fettling required to the seat whatsoever...

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Oval whitemetal boilers do happen. Sometimes the moulds in the centrifuge spin a bit too quick.

 

Hopefully Horsetan the new castings will be just the ticket to finishing off the kit correctly.

 

I've tack soldered a couple of the superstructure parts together & i must say the crispness of the parts are fantastic they've give no hassle so far.

 

I'm going to leave this project alone now as i don't want to build too much of the bodywork incase of adjustments when the chassis is got underway.

 

Simon.

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One last piece for today of the superstructure starting to take shape.

 

post-8269-0-57675900-1347040235_thumb.jpg

 

I've cleaned up the roundtop firebox casting & the roof casting so that everything is as it should be & everything is now singing off the same hymn sheet.

 

Apart from the dodgy castings mentioned early i am really pleased with the rest of the castings in this kit. Although they need more clean up that a DJH kit they go together exceptionally well.

 

After 1 session it really is coming together well & looks the part. I am dreading doing all the pipework detail on the model as that looks rather complex & no doubt one of those where you learn a whole new multiple of swear combos ;)

 

Thats all for now folks

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Technology and technique have moved on quite a lot. Sounds like you'd be happier with RTR?

Dear Horsetan,

A very cryptic response IMHO. Please expand, especially the reference to RTR. Or is there a :) missing?

Regards,

Brian.

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It's looking good and an enjoyable thread especially to those like me who need a push to return to kit building (that K's Grange in my custody which really needs to be built)

 

Ignore the 'negative waves' which seem to appear on this Forum and keep going. (Apologies to Oddball for plagarism!)

 

Thank you 32A,

 

I must admit just looking at her right now by the side of my computer i am really looking forward to this project. I think the key to railway modeling is patience's & lots of it & it's taken me quite a while to grasp that concept.

 

If your going to construct that Grange my advice is to get a copy of, Iain Rice's fantastic book "White Metal Locomotives, A Kit Builder's Guide " It's probably long out of print but i picked mine up off ebay. I've found this to be a very important tool in building this kit so far. It does actually cover the build of my kit incidentally but it doe's give you a whole host of information & tips & tricks when it comes to working with white metal.

 

Simon

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Thank you 32A,

 

I must admit just looking at her right now by the side of my computer i am really looking forward to this project. I think the key to railway modeling is patience's & lots of it & it's taken me quite a while to grasp that concept.

 

If your going to construct that Grange my advice is to get a copy of, Iain Rice's fantastic book "White Metal Locomotives, A Kit Builder's Guide " It's probably long out of print but i picked mine up off ebay. I've found this to be a very important tool in building this kit so far. It does actually cover the build of my kit incidentally but it doe's give you a whole host of information & tips & tricks when it comes to working with white metal.

 

Simon

 

On Amazon both new and used

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Whitemetal-Locos-Kitbuilders-Iain-Rice/dp/0906867770/ref=sr_1_11?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1347121126&sr=1-11 White Metal Locomotives, A Kit Builder's Guide

 

Not bothered with Ebay, but I guess there is a copy or two on there

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