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Bachmann 37 Split Box Surrounds - same as class 40?


leopardml2341

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Hi Everyone,

Made a silly mistake - acquired 'bargain' Bachmann 37 Body and then a chassis to go with it - or so I thought.

Turns out chassis has buffers on it and so does body (on he fairings).

This is the danger of not looking properly when spotting a bargain.

Suggestions please on best way to resolve...............

Thanks,

Andy

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Photos would help....................

 

Some photo's as requested.

 

Looking forward to your suggestions wirey33.

 

I know that I cancut away the buffers etc from the chassis - but are there other fundamentals that I need to look out for ? e.g. differences in body vs chassis length, worng bogie types etc - not a Bachmann '37' expert, just hoping that someone on here may have faced a similar problem.

 

Rgds,

 

post-1525-0-90713900-1351594249_thumb.jpg

post-1525-0-59727800-1351594267_thumb.jpg

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Most green 37's had the larger, round buffers

So best to retain those

I think you'll find the length of the body / chasis combination is OK

but I'm not sure about the width

I seem to recall that being slightly different (wider on the older chasis?)

 

Also, the profile of the interior cab is different

But this can be easily trimmed....

Good luck, and let us know how you get on.....

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Which version are you trying to model ?

 

Surely that decision will dictate which part is subject to surgery ?

 

I presume as you went for a split box green body, you want to model that variant, in which case, it's the chassis that need attention.

Perhaps it would be simplest to seek out a 37/0 chassis on Ebay ?

 

I'm looking for a split box green one too, but they seem to be few & far between.

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Most green 37's had the larger, round buffers

So best to retain those

I think you'll find the length of the body / chasis combination is OK

but I'm not sure about the width

I seem to recall that being slightly different (wider on the older chasis?)

 

Also, the profile of the interior cab is different

But this can be easily trimmed....

Good luck, and let us know how you get on.....

 

Thanks Marc, will post pics..........eventually.

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Which version are you trying to model ?

 

Surely that decision will dictate which part is subject to surgery ?

 

I presume as you went for a split box green body, you want to model that variant, in which case, it's the chassis that need attention.

Perhaps it would be simplest to seek out a 37/0 chassis on Ebay ?

 

I'm looking for a split box green one too, but they seem to be few & far between.

 

Early Split box - but that's just 'cause I had the body.

 

Are you looking for split box version body or chassis ?

 

As you say, chassis not easy on eBay.

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Bachmann got around the same problem buy making the new noses 3/4 of a mm deeper so that the buffer shroud fits over the standard buffer beam with out the buffers being fitted.

 

Your body looks to be a first production type 37/0 and the only way you will get it to fit a latest chassis is to cut off the black plastic buffer beam.

 

Pete

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Bachmann got around the same problem buy making the new noses 3/4 of a mm deeper so that the buffer shroud fits over the standard buffer beam with out the buffers being fitted.

 

Your body looks to be a first production type 37/0 and the only way you will get it to fit a latest chassis is to cut off the black plastic buffer beam.

 

Pete

 

Thanks Pete, do you do any etched headcode box surrounds for this ?

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Early Split box - but that's just 'cause I had the body.

 

Are you looking for split box version body or chassis ?

 

As you say, chassis not easy on eBay.

 

I'm after a complete split box 37 in green, I plan to give it full yellow ends to model D6754 in it's post '67 livery, so it makes no odds whether it's all over green, SYP or FYE to me.

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The Oval buffers on the class 37/4 just pop out, the old style body shell should then just fit over the chassis.

 

No, it's not as simple as that. (Having said that it's hardly rocket science either). As I said before you have to remove the bufferbeams. I'll put up a photo later of my solution to this exact same problem.

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I don't think Pete does the headcode box etches, (Pete?), If not, Shawplan do a lovely set.

 

Shawplan also do plenty of other detail parts suitable for the 37's and Pete does a cracking set of bogie steps for these loco's.

 

Oh lord, you've set me off on a detailing overload.....

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

 

So...........if I send you mine ?

 

Joking apart - thanks for the info.

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So...........if I send you mine ?

 

Joking apart - thanks for the info.

 

I've already done mine Leopard, so you're a little late. :mail:

 

Joking aside though, I think your body is the older version with the deeper, but incorrect depth buffer beam cowlings. I seem to remember that the distance between sandbox filler and nose side vents was more correct than the most recent version, so don't go cutting that 1mm slither out from the nose/body joint.

 

I'm sure there will be many more members out there with better knowledge who will correct any of the above if it's wrong but if you do get stuck, drop me a line. If those Peaks on Bradfield are owt to go by though, you'll end up with a smashing loco.

 

Finally, (just a suggestion), why not change the topic title and you may get some 37 fans looking in.

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

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  • 1 year later...

Hi Sean,

 

Do you know if the Class 37 and Class 40 Headcode box surrounds are the same  - Shawplan only do one variant, but they look (to me) different on the real thing.

 

Must admit I ain't had the chance to measure up any 12" to the foot scale ones.

 

Rgds,

Andy

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Andy.

 

I have had a quick natter with Brian at Shawplan. Although his drawings were not to hand, he is almost certain they are identical. He will dig out the drawings if necesary, but they are not immidiately to hand.

 

For my own part, having looked at a few pictures, I feel they are the same. I flippin hope so as I have used them on my model of D6713.....

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

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