Wright writes.....

[thegreenhowards]

I think that your model is in fact a D.369 SLST with 12 berths and a toilet at both ends. The D.368 SLSTP had 11 berths and an attendants compartment at one end and 2 toilets at the other end. The photo in Harris is misidentified.

 

There are several Thompson sleeper photos on Robert Carroll's Flickr site including a couple of underframe shots albeit a SLF. There are 3x D.369 photos in the Christmas 2007 issue of Modelrail.

 

Bogie centres according to the diagram are 47ft.

 

Mark,

 

Thanks. You're right it is a d.369. That serves me right for typing these things from memory! Thanks for the sources and the bogie centres. Robert's site looks promising and I will have a longer browse tomorrow.

 

Andy

[Gordonotron]

Hi Everyone

Show some photos , it could be a number of reasons.

 

I'll get some up!

 

Look at the size of coupling rod holes as they might bind on the crank pins at certain stages of the rotation.
Richard

 

 

A problem sometimes overlooked is that the coupling rod holes are too big. as mentioned previously, and also the coupling rod hole centres are different to the chassis axle centre line.  It pays to calibrate these components as accurately as possible.  If they are out-and don't be surprised-Iain Rice's Wild Swan book shows how this can be remedied.

 

I certainly think this could be the cause - With W1 I think there is a number of issues first being i broke part of the original kit's motion, so having an old Bachmann A4 to hand this donate some parts namely the connecting rods and main bars. Also the union link had to be fashioned from spare parts and I think may have been too small. However I spent some time on it and got it to a running stage! adding in some washers on the main bars looks to have sorted it in part, it's not perfect, but it runs!

 

As for the P2 I'll revisit the hole sizes. I suspect I need to remove some wheel sets and do some trial and error on it.

 

Gordon,

 

I assume it's the coupling rods which are binding? If so, it'll invariably be when the crank pins are at 3 o'clock and/or 9 o'clock on one side or both sides. That being the case, just ease the bearing holes in the coupling rods with a broach - a twitch at a time. It's essential that the chassis is powered to test this. It really is pointless (as an absolute test for freedom) just pushing a chassis along by hand. All you're doing there is driving the rods using the chassis, not the other way round (which is what it'll be when it's running under its own power). I've seen demonstrations of a chassis rolling beautifully-freely powered by gravity down a slope, only to be told that they bind under their own power. This is even more of a problem if the coupling rod bearing holes have been opened out too much. With the last point in mind, the only cure I've found is to bush those over-sized holes and start again.

 

One other tip is to use a Poppy's Wood chassis jig.  

 

16XX 03.jpg

 

I use this device exclusively now for building loco frames. Here it's in use getting everything square for the chassis of the 16XX featured recently. Because the coupling rods themselves are used for setting up the bearing centres, the chances of any binding are greatly reduced.  

 

I hope this helps. 

 

 

Funnily enough i got one of the poppy's jigs after i built the W1 chassis as it certainly make sense to ensure straightness. Great tool for the little it costs.

however you said there was no point running the chassis powerless. I partly see what you mean but is their not some merit in testing free running? after all if it can't run smoothly unpowered what chance would it have powered.

 

Appreciate all the hints. I'll post some results!

 

Gordon

[bbishop]

 

 

For my part, other than judging and being scanned by Alan of MODELU (yes, I'll be taking 'scale' pictures on Little Bytham henceforth!), Mo and I ran a loco/stock-building demonstration and a loco clinic. May I please thank all those with whom I chatted and especially to those who donated generously to the CMRA charity? Between us, Mo and I raised £71.00 for the charity which, among other things, visits those who are house-bound and distributes books and DVDs - a most-worthy cause. 

 

 

Tony,

 

The money has been sent to the treasurer of The Chris Ellicott Fund.  Thanks for making the effort for us.

 

Bill

Edited January 17, 2017 by bbishop

[Pebbles]

I've never seen this mentioned before, so I will raise the issue. For some reason when the Finecast A3 was released the coupled wheelbase rather than being logically extended, was reduced. Having measured the current etched chassis whilst this has moved in the right direction my repeated measurements still come out to less than 58mm. DJH on the other hand appear to have gone the other way, and from memory the coupled wheelbase comes out to about 59mm. These dimensions don't become an issue if used with their respective chassis. The point is don't assume without first measuring that coupling rods from different sources are compatible.

[CF MRC]

Tim,

 

Copenhagen Fields 52.jpg

 

I've straightened out the top three posts, but I can't do anything with the main, bottom one.

 

Copenhagen Fields 53.jpg

 

Perhaps a tight crop (having removed all the cobwebs- not easy to see in the overall shot)? This is from one of the other images.

 

That's a gorgeous reflection from the safety valve that will never tarnish! Thank you.

 

Sorry to duplicate, just noticed that my previous reply had posted.

 

Tim

Edited January 17, 2017 by CF MRC

[grob1234]

Hello Everyone,

 

Hope it's OK to share these here. I've been watching a few videos (not that sort) on YouChoob. I'm sure most of you have seen them before, but thought they may be of interest.

 

Observations: Bob Symes is incredibly knowledge about model railways, unlike many modern presenters who often get terminology wrong when tacking specialist subjects. I know he's a hobbyist too, but he really knows his stuff, he also seems like an absolute gentleman, and a kit builder to boot!

 

Also note a very young Barry Norman - nice 'tasche! 

 

First is a BBC documentary featuring amongst others, Iain Rice, and the Gravatts (of Pempoul fame).

 

https://youtu.be/oABo8ZJ_13U

 

Just follow the links within youtube for part two of the following:

 

https://youtu.be/9WR8QtuQ0m8

 

 

The trains through the snow in this look fantastic:

 

https://youtu.be/A1PCAhiyrqs

 

https://youtu.be/JdGQaU82bdE

Edited January 17, 2017 by grob1234

[Tony Wright]

Hi Everyone

 

I'll get some up!

 

 

 

 

I certainly think this could be the cause - With W1 I think there is a number of issues first being i broke part of the original kit's motion, so having an old Bachmann A4 to hand this donate some parts namely the connecting rods and main bars. Also the union link had to be fashioned from spare parts and I think may have been too small. However I spent some time on it and got it to a running stage! adding in some washers on the main bars looks to have sorted it in part, it's not perfect, but it runs!

 

As for the P2 I'll revisit the hole sizes. I suspect I need to remove some wheel sets and do some trial and error on it.

 

 

 

Funnily enough i got one of the poppy's jigs after i built the W1 chassis as it certainly make sense to ensure straightness. Great tool for the little it costs.

however you said there was no point running the chassis powerless. I partly see what you mean but is their not some merit in testing free running? after all if it can't run smoothly unpowered what chance would it have powered.

 

Appreciate all the hints. I'll post some results!

 

Gordon

Gordon,

 

You're right in suggesting there is merit in testing a chassis un-powered, by finger-pressure or gravity, but don't then automatically assume that it'll be absolutely free when under-power. Of course, if it won't run smoothly using those modes of propulsion, it'll be just as bad (if not worse) under-power. It's just that I've seen examples where a chassis will run smoothly when pushed, then the builder erects the rest without thoroughly testing under-power; only to find that there is then something binding. 

 

I've probably presented this list before of my approach to making a set of frames/chassis, but here goes again. 

 

1. After separating them from the fret and cleaning up, open out holes in the frames to take the bearings.

2. Solder in bearings from the rear.

3. File the inside of the bearings flush with the inside of the frames on the driven axle.

4. Solder the spacers to one frame.

5. (If necessary) Solder the coupling rods together (some rods come as a single thickness). 

6. Jig the whole lot up using the rods as a guide and solder the two frames together, and then solder any retaining nuts in place.

7. Pass a one eighth taper reamer through each bearing.

8. Make up the motor/gearbox and test for free running.

9. Install this in the frames and test for free-running.

10. Temporarily fit the wheels and check all is square and true, flicking each wheel set to check for no binding (and push-along, if you wish). 

11. Solder in the brake cross-rails, nipping them off to the correct length.

12. Clean up the frames, removing flux residue and detritus, THEN PAINT AREAS BEHIND AND BETWEEN THE DRIVERS.

13. Fit the pick-up pads.

14. Refit the wheels and gearbox.

15. Make and fit the pick-ups and wire them to the motor.

16. Place the chassis on the rails and run just the motor/gearbox. If there is any slight tightness (there shouldn't be), remove the driven axle and ream through both the frames and the gearbox (do you see why I dislike friction-fit drivers?)

17 Add one rod and temporarily hold it in place with pieces of small-bore rubber tubing on the crank pins. If you're really lucky, the chassis will run with just one rod! If it's free, then add the second rod. If both are really free (UNDER POWER), then solder on the crank pin retaining washers to the outer axles (assuming it's a six-coupled). If it has no outside cylinders then solder on all retaining washers (unless it's, say, a J39, which has a lubricator drive on one side). Once happy, oil and run-in the chassis under low power for about half an hour. 

18. For outside-cylinder locos, make up the connecting rod (for one side) and attach the little end to the crosshead/piston rod. Make sure it is really free. Make-up the slidebars/cylinder assembly (again for one side) and check that the crosshead and piston rod run perfectly smoothly (without oil).

19. Then make up the rest of the valve gear, checking at every stage that there is no binding. Only when entirely happy, fit the assembled motion to the one side. Then repeat on the other. 

20. Brake blocks and balanced weights can then be fitted. 

21. Continue with a little more running-in after everything is oiled.

 

That's 'my' way. Not 'the way', really 'a way'. 

 

I hope this helps. 

 

Edited because I forgot to include when I paint the frames. I just brush-paint these, covering those areas behind and between the wheels. 

Edited January 17, 2017 by Tony Wright

[Tony Wright]

David,

 

This is a combination of parts from many sources ( aka a bodge?!). You are right that they are longer than the standard Thompsons which doesn't make life easy. I used a pair of Railroad 'shortie' underframe that I picked up for 50p each, and glued them together on a plasticard former. All the underframe detail has been removed, ready for new bits when I can work out what goes where. It seems to work for now, but we'll have to see when it is pressed into service. The other bits are Mousa sides, 247 ends and MJT roof and HD bogies.

 

Andy

Andy,

 

Comet Models is to introduce a Gresley heavy-duty bogie into the range. 

[drmditch]

With reference to coupling rods, there is one feature that I haven't seen mentioned on the discussions above. (Sorry if I've just missed it!)

 

All my kit-built (and modified) locomotives have separate rod sections between each wheel.

Six coupled locomotives therefore have four rod sections, and the eight coupled have six.

 

Even if a kit comes with 'one piece' rods for each side, I adapt these using either spare material or Alan Gibson 'Universal Rods'.

(There is even an old J27 model with rods filed up from NS rail.)

 

It is therefore possible to carry out the alignment and and required easing on each pair of rods before testing the whole set together.

 

My models may be a bit primitive compared with many of the 'works-of-art' on this thread, but this method works well for me. It allows for:-

 

- Tight curvatures (if sufficient sideways play is provided.) My Q6 and Q7 will transit 18" radius curves.

- Slight variations in track height (if adequate vertical tolerances are allowed for with centre axles)

- Better representation of originals where the rods were in actuality jointed.

 

To make-up and solder coupling rods I use a jig made up of an off-cut of mdf and the vitally important cocktail sticks. This avoids burnt fingers!

[Barry Ten]

When I built my S15 last year, the basic chassis ran freely as a rolling unit on the workbench, but there was a slight tight spot once it was being driven by the motor. This was barely noticeable when the engine was running on its own, but it got worse when there was weight transfer onto the rear axle with the engine under load, as when hauling a train. I had to ream out the rear holes on the coupling rods a fair bit before things settled down. Even there was a residual tight spot when starting to move a train, but that's gradually eliminated itself with running-in. What I learned from that was to make sure the chassis can be tested under load early on, even if that means borrowing a tender from another loco.

 

I've also only built two sets of full valve gear, so I'm not speaking from a wealth of experience, but my approach going forward would be to get the chassis running as a basic coupled unit first, then attach and de-bug the valve gear on one side only, getting it as satisfactory as possible before adding the second side. I'd also aim to get the cylinder/slidebar end of things working smoothly before attaching the return crank, as again it's one less set of variables to puzzle over in one go.

 

Alastair

Edited January 17, 2017 by Barry Ten

[Tony Wright]

With reference to coupling rods, there is one feature that I haven't seen mentioned on the discussions above. (Sorry if I've just missed it!)

 

All my kit-built (and modified) locomotives have separate rod sections between each wheel.

Six coupled locomotives therefore have four rod sections, and the eight coupled have six.

 

Even if a kit comes with 'one piece' rods for each side, I adapt these using either spare material or Alan Gibson 'Universal Rods'.

(There is even an old J27 model with rods filed up from NS rail.)

 

It is therefore possible to carry out the alignment and and required easing on each pair of rods before testing the whole set together.

 

My models may be a bit primitive compared with many of the 'works-of-art' on this thread, but this method works well for me. It allows for:-

 

- Tight curvatures (if sufficient sideways play is provided.) My Q6 and Q7 will transit 18" radius curves.

- Slight variations in track height (if adequate vertical tolerances are allowed for with centre axles)

- Better representation of originals where the rods were in actuality jointed.

 

To make-up and solder coupling rods I use a jig made up of an off-cut of mdf and the vitally important cocktail sticks. This avoids burnt fingers!

Many thanks.

 

I take the opposite route to you, making all my rods rigid, whether it be six-coupled, eight-coupled or ten-coupled. The reason is that one is effectively making a series of 0-4-0s otherwise. In all my chassis-making, the hardest I get to run really smoothly are 0-4-0s. 

 

With rigid rods on a six-coupled loco, I always drive off the centre axle if I can, never an outer one. If it's eight-coupled, then I arrange the drive on the third axle. If it's ten-coupled, then off the centre or fourth axle. I've never had success driving an eight- or ten-coupled loco off the rear axle. But then, Iain Rice considers me an absolute Luddite, which I rejoice in being! And, no loco I've ever made could be considered a 'work of art', but they all work. Granted, I don't have 18" radius curves. 

[thegreenhowards]

Andy,

 

Comet Models is to introduce a Gresley heavy-duty bogie into the range.

 

Thanks Tony, that will be useful. These were MJT, but at £11.70 a pair a little competition wouldn't go amiss!

 

Andy

[drmditch]

Many thanks.

 

I take the opposite route to you, making all my rods rigid, whether it be six-coupled, eight-coupled or ten-coupled. The reason is that one is effectively making a series of 0-4-0s otherwise. In all my chassis-making, the hardest I get to run really smoothly are 0-4-0s. 

 

With rigid rods on a six-coupled loco, I always drive off the centre axle if I can, never an outer one. If it's eight-coupled, then I arrange the drive on the third axle. If it's ten-coupled, then off the centre or fourth axle. I've never had success driving an eight- or ten-coupled loco off the rear axle. But then, Iain Rice considers me an absolute Luddite, which I rejoice in being! And, no loco I've ever made could be considered a 'work of art', but they all work. Granted, I don't have 18" radius curves.

I should just say that I don't have many (18" radius curves that is)! There weren't supposed to be any on the my new railway, but one seems to have crept into the storage layout!

 

Like you I prefer to drive an 0-6-0 from the centre axle, but my two most recent constructions are driven from the rear axle and seem to work reasonably well. Perhaps it just goes to show that different solutions are possible and that what matters is the combined effect of the engineering and construction! ) Including, of course the weight distribution!

Edited January 17, 2017 by drmditch

[Atso]

Good evening Tony,

 

It was great to see you again on Sunday and I hope that you enjoyed your weekend in Stevenage.

 

Following our discussion on the merits of soldering, I thought I'd show you my efforts with some etched wagon kits I picked up at the show from the BH Enterprises stand. These were designed 26 years ago (according to the date on the etch) and in some ways were more challenging (in other ways very simple) than the 2mm Scale Association cattle truck I build a few months ago.

 

As per my views expressed on Sunday, these have been put together using nothing more than gum of arabic. As I didn't have a bottle to hand, I simply removed it from some spare envelopes I had to hand and dolloped it on - far more robust than that solder stuff you insist on using! 

 

Joking aside, I spent an enjoyable day yesterday putting these together and practicing my soldering technique (there is actually a second GNR brake van, but that's progressed to getting a squirt of primer so wasn't available to photograph).

 

 

From left to right: GCR fish van, GNR brake van and NER/LNER perishables van. The fish and brake van were my star finds of the show as I've been after these for quite some time and it saves me the effort of scratch building them or designing something to 3D print. The perishables van was my first attempt and took around three hours, but the time I got to the second brake van, I had this down to an hour and a half (including messing measuring and bending guitar wire for the handrails).

 

Everything was soldered together with the exception of the roofs which defeated me and were attached with araldite. I'd like some more fish vans but Ray only had the one on his stand. Ultimately, I'd like to have a rake but this will also mean I'd really need to build something to haul them (Robinson B5 perhaps)...

Edited January 17, 2017 by Atso

[Jamiel]

Gordon,

 

You're right in suggesting there is merit in testing a chassis un-powered, by finger-pressure or gravity, but don't then automatically assume that it'll be absolutely free when under-power. Of course, if it won't run smoothly using those modes of propulsion, it'll be just as bad (if not worse) under-power. It's just that I've seen examples where a chassis will run smoothly when pushed, then the builder erects the rest without thoroughly testing under-power; only to find that there is then something binding. 

 

I've probably presented this list before of my approach to making a set of frames/chassis, but here goes again. 

 

1. After separating them from the fret and cleaning up, open out holes in the frames to take the bearings.

2. Solder in bearings from the rear.

3. File the inside of the bearings flush with the inside of the frames on the driven axle.

4. Solder the spacers to one frame.

5. (If necessary) Solder the coupling rods together (some rods come as a single thickness). 

6. Jig the whole lot up using the rods as a guide and solder the two frames together, and then solder any retaining nuts in place.

7. Pass a one eighth taper reamer through each bearing.

8. Make up the motor/gearbox and test for free running.

9. Install this in the frames and test for free-running.

10. Temporarily fit the wheels and check all is square and true, flicking each wheel set to check for no binding (and push-along, if you wish). 

11. Solder in the brake cross-rails, nipping them off to the correct length.

12. Clean up the frames, removing flux residue and detritus, THEN PAINT AREAS BEHIND AND BETWEEN THE DRIVERS.

13. Fit the pick-up pads.

14. Refit the wheels and gearbox.

15. Make and fit the pick-ups and wire them to the motor.

16. Place the chassis on the rails and run just the motor/gearbox. If there is any slight tightness (there shouldn't be), remove the driven axle and ream through both the frames and the gearbox (do you see why I dislike friction-fit drivers?)

17 Add one rod and temporarily hold it in place with pieces of small-bore rubber tubing on the crank pins. If you're really lucky, the chassis will run with just one rod! If it's free, then add the second rod. If both are really free (UNDER POWER), then solder on the crank pin retaining washers to the outer axles (assuming it's a six-coupled). If it has no outside cylinders then solder on all retaining washers (unless it's, say, a J39, which has a lubricator drive on one side). Once happy, oil and run-in the chassis under low power for about half an hour. 

18. For outside-cylinder locos, make up the connecting rod (for one side) and attach the little end to the crosshead/piston rod. Make sure it is really free. Make-up the slidebars/cylinder assembly (again for one side) and check that the crosshead and piston rod run perfectly smoothly (without oil).

19. Then make up the rest of the valve gear, checking at every stage that there is no binding. Only when entirely happy, fit the assembled motion to the one side. Then repeat on the other. 

20. Brake blocks and balanced weights can then be fitted. 

21. Continue with a little more running-in after everything is oiled.

 

That's 'my' way. Not 'the way', really 'a way'. 

 

I hope this helps. 

 

Edited because I forgot to include when I paint the frames. I just brush-paint these, covering those areas behind and between the wheels. 

Thank you for this advice. As someone inspired by this thread, as well as seeing the fantastic brass kits made by Mike Edge, Alan Smith, Barry O and others at the LMRS, this is really useful for brass beginners like myself.

 

Jamie

[mullie]

Thank you for this advice. As someone inspired by this thread, as well as seeing the fantastic brass kits made by Mike Edge, Alan Smith, Barry O and others at the LMRS, this is really useful for brass beginners like myself.

 

Jamie

I've also copied and pasted this list into a document so I can refer to it when I try my first chassis in the spring. Thanks Tony and all the others who contribute such useful advice.

[Guest Brighton_JunctionLNER]

Good evening Jesse,

 

I'm glad the A2 is still performing well. 

 

You'll be pleased to know that all of John Brown's locos handed over to me prior to Warley have now been sold, raising a fair bit in excess of a thousand pounds for a bereaved family, with donations to charity as well. You certainly had the best one. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

That's wonderful, my parents were very touched to hear that a percentage went to the cancer foundation. A close friend of mine has only recently been diagnosed with lung cancer, such a shame, hes only in his mid 20's.

 

I'm glad to have been able to help out in a small way, better to have the locomotives sold off and being continued to run giving another person pleasure, rather than sitting on a shelf or lonely dark box. I will definitely cherish Johns locomotive and make sure it keeps going in a new life. 

 

 

By the way how is the MRJ coming along? How would i be able to get a copy when it is released? I've never seen it here in Australia. 

 

Hope Mo is well. 

 

Jesse

[Tony Wright]

Good evening Tony,

 

It was great to see you again on Sunday and I hope that you enjoyed your weekend in Stevenage.

 

Following our discussion on the merits of soldering, I thought I'd show you my efforts with some etched wagon kits I picked up at the show from the BH Enterprises stand. These were designed 26 years ago (according to the date on the etch) and in some ways were more challenging (in other ways very simple) than the 2mm Scale Association cattle truck I build a few months ago.

 

As per my views expressed on Sunday, these have been put together using nothing more than gum of arabic. As I didn't have a bottle to hand, I simply removed it from some spare envelopes I had to hand and dolloped it on - far more robust than that solder stuff you insist on using! 

 

Joking aside, I spent an enjoyable day yesterday putting these together and practicing my soldering technique (there is actually a second GNR brake van, but that's progressed to getting a squirt of primer so wasn't available to photograph).

 

BHE Brass Wagon Kits Web Large.jpg

 

From left to right: GCR fish van, GNR brake van and NER/LNER perishables van. The fish and brake van were my star finds of the show as I've been after these for quite some time and it saves me the effort of scratch building them or designing something to 3D print. The perishables van was my first attempt and took around three hours, but the time I got to the second brake van, I had this down to an hour and a half (including messing measuring and bending guitar wire for the handrails).

 

Everything was soldered together with the exception of the roofs which defeated me and were attached with araldite. I'd like some more fish vans but Ray only had the one on his stand. Ultimately, I'd like to have a rake but this will also mean I'd really need to build something to haul them (Robinson B5 perhaps)...

This is great stuff, Steve. Your practising soldering has reaped rich rewards. Putting on roofs with adhesives is most acceptable. Otherwise, how can one contemplate internal soldering? For vehicles with no visible interiors, I always glue roofs on. Where an interior is needed I usually divide the body/floor pan at the solebar, screwing the two together for future access. That way, if it's a brass roof I'll solder it on from the inside; if it's aluminium or plastic, it's obviously glued. 

 

Didn't we mention Seccotine or Pafra as an alternative to soldering?

 

Many thanks again for sitting in for Mo and me when we went to lunch. 

 

Please, keep on posting. 

[Tony Wright]

That's wonderful, my parents were very touched to hear that a percentage went to the cancer foundation. A close friend of mine has only recently been diagnosed with lung cancer, such a shame, hes only in his mid 20's.

 

I'm glad to have been able to help out in a small way, better to have the locomotives sold off and being continued to run giving another person pleasure, rather than sitting on a shelf or lonely dark box. I will definitely cherish Johns locomotive and make sure it keeps going in a new life. 

 

 

By the way how is the MRJ coming along? How would i be able to get a copy when it is released? I've never seen it here in Australia. 

 

Hope Mo is well. 

 

Jesse

Thanks Jesse,

 

Mo is very well, thank you. She sends her regards. 

 

The MRJ in Australia? It's supposed to be published this week, with LB in it; cue the outraged and ceremonial subscription-burning!

 

I'll see if I can get a copy sent over to you.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Woodcock29]

Hi Jesse

 

MRJ is available in Australia but only a few newsagents stock it. Of course its about 2 or so months after publication that they get it. Luckily for me 3 within about 6km of where I live in Adelaide do get it - the biggest issue is you never know when it comes out as it is somewhat irregular therefore I visit one of these newsagents regularly on my way home from golf. I don't buy every issue, probably about half of them depends what the articles are.

 

Regards

 

Andrew Emmett

[St Enodoc]

That's wonderful, my parents were very touched to hear that a percentage went to the cancer foundation. A close friend of mine has only recently been diagnosed with lung cancer, such a shame, hes only in his mid 20's.

 

I'm glad to have been able to help out in a small way, better to have the locomotives sold off and being continued to run giving another person pleasure, rather than sitting on a shelf or lonely dark box. I will definitely cherish Johns locomotive and make sure it keeps going in a new life. 

 

 

By the way how is the MRJ coming along? How would i be able to get a copy when it is released? I've never seen it here in Australia. 

 

Hope Mo is well. 

 

Jesse

Jesse, as per Andrew's post MRJ is available from a number of newsagents in Sydney. Try the bigger ones in the large shopping malls. If you have trouble finding a copy let me know and I will pick one up for you.

[nerron]

Hi Jesse

 

MRJ is available in Australia but only a few newsagents stock it. Of course its about 2 or so months after publication that they get it. Luckily for me 3 within about 6km of where I live in Adelaide do get it - the biggest issue is you never know when it comes out as it is somewhat irregular therefore I visit one of these newsagents regularly on my way home from golf. I don't buy every issue, probably about half of them depends what the articles are.

 

Regards

 

Andrew Emmett

In Sydney it is available from the ARHS bookshop in Redfern.Their copies come airmail (c$15) and they will post to you if you can't get to the shop.

Edited January 18, 2017 by nerron

[Barry Ten]

In Sydney it is available from the ARHS bookshop in Redfern.Their copies come airmail (c$15) and they will post to you if you can't get to the shop.

 

Is there still that railway bookshop in the main Sydney railway station?

[St Enodoc]

Is there still that railway bookshop in the main Sydney railway station?

No, it closed a couple of years ago pending redevelopment of that part of the concourse. That was in fact the ARHS bookshop itself, which was previously in Redfern, moved to Central and is now back in its former home at Redfern.

[Barry Ten]

No, it closed a couple of years ago pending redevelopment of that part of the concourse. That was in fact the ARHS bookshop itself, which was previously in Redfern, moved to Central and is now back in its former home at Redfern.

 

I'm glad that it's still in business, at least. That shop accounted for a fair few extra kilos in my suitcase...