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Hornby HST DCC running qualities


martin_l_jones

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I have a number of Hornby HST power cars and I am sure I am not getting the best running qualities from them.

 

I have tried, Bachmann 36-553's, Hornby Sapphire and Lenz Silver.

 

I have adjusted the ramp ups and ramp downs to help with the slow start and braking performance which is generally a lot better and more realistic, but just not convinced they run at there best.

 

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance.

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Ive also been less than impressed with my (new) Hornby HSTs when DCC fitted -

worse still , I have 5 Pairs of the new HST Power cars , and since chipping them all its been impossible to get the lights to work - the sprung contacts fail and/or converting them to dcc seems to have killed the

lighting circuits - on all 10 of them!!

 

 

Jon

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Ive also been less than impressed with my (new) Hornby HSTs when DCC fitted -

worse still , I have 5 Pairs of the new HST Power cars , and since chipping them all its been impossible to get the lights to work - the sprung contacts fail and/or converting them to dcc seems to have killed the

lighting circuits - on all 10 of them!!

 

 

Jon

Jon

There is a secret in removing and refitting the bodies. It is really important to slide the chassis out of the body rewards as soon as you possibly can, keeping it as level as possible too the body, this avoids any disturbance to the contacts, I find refitting the reverse of removal, you need to get the front of the chassis into the body carefully but as parrellel to the chassis as you possibly can, this definitely avoids disturbing the contacts.

I found this out after a major issue with my Cross Country set which i returned to Hornby and they fixed it FOC, too be honest my first sets the GNER & Virgin were actually DCC on board, which is also worth considering.

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...I have a number of Hornby HST power cars and I am sure I am not getting the best running qualities from them..

I have adjusted the ramp ups and ramp downs to help with the slow start and braking performance which is generally a lot better and more realistic, but just not convinced they run at their best...

 

 What exactly is the deficiency, or to put it another way, what is it in the running that you would like to improve?

 

I have only seen one of these centre motor HST chassis operating, and that was on DC only test running on my layout pretty much from new, and it appeared to do all it should after about an hour and a half of medium speed running, regularly alternating direction. It started out a little noisy and lumpy, but quieted nicely after an hour: this is pretty normal, I believe a lot of it is getting the lubricant evenly dispersed around the gear trains rather than in blobs on the teeth. It never became absolutely smooth dead slow and tended to start and stop with a jerk, and for this I would point the finger at the fan drive, which comes off the motor shaft. The basic design of the drive is a good one, and capable of giving very smooth results, the fan drive tends to rob it of some smoothness in low speed performance. If it were mine I would have unhooked the O ring used as the drive belt to take it out of the equation.

 

Other aspects to check, the pick up wipers all making good contact, and the integrity of connections from pick ups to motor. Assembly of wiring is often clip on - didn't look inside so don't know on this model -  and it doesn't take much in the way of a poor connection to take the edge off performance. Personally, once satisfied a model is mechanically sound I solder up the electrical circuit to eliminate any probem potential here.

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 It never became absolutely smooth dead slow and tended to start and stop with a jerk, and for this I would point the finger at the fan drive, which comes off the motor shaft. The basic design of the drive is a good one, and capable of giving very smooth results, the fan drive tends to rob it of some smoothness in low speed performance. If it were mine I would have unhooked the O ring used as the drive belt to take it out of the equation.

 

I'd definitely second that recommendation belt to get smoother running. I snip them out of all of my Hornby locos when chipping them.

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It's difficult to highlight anything specific but I feel the starting and stopping and slow running is lumpy, the flat out speed is not as fast as I would imagine. I compare it with a 60 or 66 and it's not a patch on the overall performance.

I will remove the plastic sleeve on the spindle that runs the fans and see if it makes a difference.

Thanks for the advice.

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Unlikely to produce any improvement: the effective change is to unhook the drive belt from the flywheel. That's where the vast majority of the drag this mechanism imposes is generated; the hysteresis in deforming the O ring probably the main cause. On the 31 mech it can be neatly 'parked' out of contact with the rotating components.

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I'm intrigued to understand where this belt is...To me it looks as though the plastic tube on the Fan Assembly shaft is driven by the brass bush or black ring on the brass bush.

 Told you I didn't look inside! Made the assumption that Hornby would have used the same design as on the Brush 2 model, which very definitely uses an O ring as a drive belt. (Perhaps this is where 'design clever' comes in, don't design afresh for each new release, re-use stock designs?) Sorry to mislead. And I would still want to eliminate this drive and check for improvement.

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No worries, it's all good top learn...

 

Sadly have given up on this units it's being boxed up to go back for replacement.

 

I took the clear tubing off the shaft on two others and they are now both running much better.

 

I notice there are two very small rubber rings underneath the fan assembly where the two front screws go into the chassis..

 

I presume these must be spacers ??

 

Anyway, thanks for your help guys...

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