GAP Z Class Kit

[Allegheny1600]

Here is the reason why I took an interest in this thread!

 

 

 

 

I didn't build this, just acquired it a few years back for a club project that was to never be. The actual painting isn't too bad but the decals & windows are awful!!!

It sits way too high and I think I'll struggle to get it to sit much lower.

Looks as though the original builder has worked on the cylinders though?

Opinions on what to do would be very welcome, please!

Cheers,

John E.

[SRman]

That does look good, John.

 

It does look to be sitting too high, although, having said that, mine does too. I did grind out some of the insides of the firebox/boiler area with a milling tool in the Dremel to get it to sit slightly lower but I can't take much more material without going right through! The limit is the height of the motor itself. I have pondered whether it may be possible to turn the motor onto its side to reduce the depth slightly.

 

I agree, your cylinders do appear to have been reshaped and possibly a thin wrapper added.

 

Your comments about the windows and decals may be valid but it would not take a great deal of work to remove those and redo them to your satisfaction.

 

In digging through all the photos I could find when painting mine, I decided that the buffer beam at the front was all red, although it was fairly hard to tell in some of the photos because of grime and dirt, or because they were monochrome pics. I wasn't entirely sure though because some other types with the flat front ends (N1/U1, for example) appear to have the buffer beams red only to the depth of the buffer mounts, as yours has.

[Norwenglish]

Thanks for the kind comments everyone, really helps with the motivation to get the project done (have to admit that it can be quite intimidating seeing the beautiful things lots of others on here produce).

 

On the cylinders subject I might try to bulk them out with modelling putty and then file them to shape.

 

Your Z looks good John, I also had the same problem as SRman of milling out inside the boiler and it getting very thin, theres parts that are thin enough for daylight to be seen even with the coat of black paint on. Also on the buffer beams I am thinking of doing the red only to the height of the buffer mounts as has been done on yours.

 

One downside to this project is that I'm already looking for a next kit to build and theres too many tempting engines, especially big Southern tank engines such as the River, W Class, and the LB&SCR L Class. Although I might have to say no more buying until a layout has been built, but plans are starting to come together for that, and once things are a bit more in place I will have to share the thoughts and ideas on here. Although they may be a little frowned upon by the more serious railway modellers.

 

Stuart

[Norwenglish]

Well after a 14 hour, 500 mile journey, I am now re-united with my modelling things for good!

 

Progress has been made in the last day or two, with pictures to prove it, so here we go;

 

And with a few battered Lima carriages that I have done some work on today. The thoughts behind these is that we are planning on modelling a preserved line, so we need some worse for wear items to go in sidings.

 

So now all I'm waiting for is to find an online retailer that has clack valves in stock, and then I'll be onto the next project which will probably be helping my father with an LBSC L class kit that I got him for his birthday

 

Stuart

[bigbadbadge]

Fantastic looking Loco (and Coaches) stuart, great job.  Also the Locos on here too all look great.

 

All the best
Chris
 

[SRman]

I couldn't find any suitable clack valves so made up my own (very crudely) using wire and Milliput.

 

That Z looks really good in the sunshine. Nice!!

[Norwenglish]

Are the Markits ones not correct? Says they are suitable for S.R, B.R and E.R. If not I will have to dig out my Milliput as I've tried using green stuff which ended in failure and mild irritation.

[SRman]

I haven't seen the Markits ones - it is difficult to get Markits stuff over here in Australia. Markits don't have an online shop which makes things more awkward.

I would be interested to see them if you do get them. They should save you a bit of work.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

...It does look to be sitting too high, although, having said that, mine does too. I did grind out some of the insides of the firebox/boiler area with a milling tool in the Dremel to get it to sit slightly lower but I can't take much more material without going right through! The limit is the height of the motor itself. I have pondered whether it may be possible to turn the motor onto its side to reduce the depth slightly.

 

I agree, your cylinders do appear to have been reshaped and possibly a thin wrapper added...

I like these adaptions from RTR, and were I of the Southern persuasion this GAP kit would be a 'must do' for a model of an unusual type in UK practise.

 

The motor mount on the Hornby 8F chassis is unfortunately of the older mechanically inept design. Simply turning the Hornby motor will I suspect make a barely adequate motor mount into an inadequate one, and the worm will pop out of mesh very readily. If turning the motor does reduce the height of the motor top enough and the resulting width increase is a fit within the body, then my plan would be to infill between the motor and the chassis with a tough bonding filler like Milliput to make a flat surface under the motor, and then subsequently glue on the motor with Evostick. (Wrap the motor in clingfilm to prevent the Milliput bonding to the motor casing.)

 

This way the mechanical mounts are only serving to position the motor correctly with the worm in mesh, the Evostick does practically all the work resisting the reaction force. Should the motor ever fail, then the Evostick bond can be readily broken with a knife to permit replacement: alternatively, allowing the Miliput bond to the motor casing will work, but then motor replacement will require the use of a saw or other toothed cutting implement. If the turned motor doesn't fit for width then think about substitution with a smaller Mashima can motor, using the same technique.

 

Cylinders; Hornby's mounting pattern is so uniform that I would look to substitute a set from a two outside cylinder GWR design like the 28xx.

[SouthernWay]

Wow, all these models on here are really great examples of the unusual. This topic has really inspired me to make a start on the Z class I have. However I have to finish the W class and make a start on the G16 and Merchant Navy I have in line first. W class is coming along though. It was the last one Chris (GAP) produced from the mould as he was breaking the mould up to get it out. Needless to say it did need a bit of cleaning up but I'm happy with the job I'm doing so far.

 

Just out of interest does anyone have any pictures of the cab layout of the W class, Z class or G16 class??

Edited September 16, 2014 by SouthernWay

[SRman]

Trying to find any decent shots of the cab interiors of the Z or G16 has eluded me (I haven't looked for the H16 so I could feasibly have missed something there!).

 

If you, or anyone else do find them, please share the source here (references or links - please don't breach any copyrights).

[Norwenglish]

To be honest, I havn't looked into cab interiors, as it will be hard to see anything put in there, and the motors sticks into the cab a bit.

 

I also think I can declare my Z finally finished minus reshaped cylinders, as it now has clack valves installed    and I will now be starting a general workbench thread to log mine and my father's progress on various things we have bought over the summer, although in my excitement I have rushed through most of my projects. Just need the lovely norwegian weather to clear up so that pictures can be taken!

[SRman]

Glad you are making progress, Norwenglish. Looking forward to seeing the pics when they come.

I was reading an article just the other day about a naturalist in northern Norway: he joked that Summer was the favourite day of the year where he was!

[Norwenglish]

So I'm back with a very short update, I have now started a workbench thread with my Dad, as our kitbuilding has taken off a a fair rate!

 

It can be found here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/94254-a-southern-workbench-in-the-frozen-north/and the first post contains pictures of the completed Z. Although I have now been tempted to try adding some lamp irons made from cut down staples.

[SRman]

Just had a look at the workbench thread. Some very nice stuff on there ... you have been busy!

As an addendum to my entries, I have now landed three sets of Markits clack valves from Peter's Spares so I can redo the Z and the G16 properly and have a set spare.

[Norwenglish]

I have indeed been very busy, a combination of Birthday, Christmas, cheap finds on ebay and plenty of free time due to unemployment

 

We found the clack valves to be a real pain in the backside too get hold of, so we have started building a small supply of what we would call 'kit essentials' whenever we could find them. But Peter's Spares and Mainly Trains have been very good, when they have had the items in stock of course.

 

It's a hard life being a modeller not based in the UK, but it's still alot cheaper the the scary prices of Norwegian HO stuff, even when customs catch parcels and tax us on them!

Edited January 1, 2015 by Norwenglish

[SouthernWay]

All nice looking models. Here is a copy of photos of my GAP Z class I have been building on and off for a couple of months now. Not quite finished yet but just a clear coat decals and a final clear coat to go. Then just a touch of weathering.