Painting cork trackbed

[YK 50A]

Hi,

 

Hopefully a very quick and easy question for someone...

 

Time is running out for getting a layout up and running and am thinking of painting the cork sheet as a temporary and initial scenic surface, prior to doing the job properly.  Grey for ballast, green(s) for grass, black for tarmac, etc.

 

Would emulsion be a suitable paint while maintaining the corks sound absorbing qualities?  If someone could advise, it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Many thanks,

 

Alun

[Miss Prism]

You'll be painting it later, so why bother now, especially with something that might impair the attachment of further cosmetic layers like ballast?

[corax67]

Cheap and cheerful kids poster paints will work OK and you can still ballast over them at a later date without problems - the premixed type from the supermarkets are fine and cost about a pound a bottle.

[YK 50A]

You'll be painting it later, so why bother now, especially with something that might impair the attachment of further cosmetic layers like ballast?

 

As per my original post...

 

Time is running out for getting a layout up and running...

 

Cheap and cheerful kids poster paints will work OK and you can still ballast over them at a later date without problems - the premixed type from the supermarkets are fine and cost about a pound a bottle.

 

That's great, thank you.  I hadn't thought of poster paints, seems obvious now you mention it.

 

Alun

[YK 50A]

You'll be painting it later, so why bother now, especially with something that might impair the attachment of further cosmetic layers like ballast?

 

I feel a bit of a misery now.  It has been covered chapter and verse elsewhere, but to cut a long and not particularly interesting story short, my 10 year old son's old layout wouldn't go up a dog leg staircase when we moved house.  I promised I'd get something up and running for Christmas.  I decided to do the design, track laying, wiring, etc, properly so it will hopefully keep the kid and the big kid (me) happy for a year or 3, so things are taking a little (read a lot) longer than a simple train set.  I've made quite a few of the Metcalfe card buildings, so the paint is really something to make it all look a bit nicer than "cork brown" at Christmas.

 

Alun

[Tiptonian]

Rather more expensive, but have you considered using stone-effect spray paint on the cork for the track bed? Made by Rustoleum and Plasticote in various shades, it won't look brilliant, but as a stop-gap it would be better than grey paint.

[Stevelewis]

Use  emulsion......  buy  the  cheapest   you  can  get,  evenn small matchpots   which  are usually on a special  BOGOF or reduced  price offer at the mo ( B&Q  Homebase  etc)

 

I can confirm  that   there is  no problem  with ballast  adhesion  to  surface  including  cork.

 

PS  Matt is better  than  silk!!  less shine

 

The  unfortunate  thing  is  Cork  is  not  a great  sound  insulator,  sticking  1"  polystyrens sheet under the  baseboard  helps when cork is  used,  Woodland  scenics  underlay  is better   for  sound  insulation  but  its  almost black in colour,  Peco Foam  works  very well  but it is not to a lot of peoples  taste ( visually that  is)

[YK 50A]

Rather more expensive, but have you considered using stone-effect spray paint on the cork for the track bed? Made by Rustoleum and Plasticote in various shades, it won't look brilliant, but as a stop-gap it would be better than grey paint.

 

As it's a short term stop gap and will have PVA on top of the trackbed, cheap and not so cheerful will do me, but thanks anyway.

 

Use  emulsion......  buy  the  cheapest   you  can  get,  evenn small matchpots   which  are usually on a special  BOGOF or reduced  price offer at the mo ( B&Q  Homebase  etc)

 

I can confirm  that   there is  no problem  with ballast  adhesion  to  surface  including  cork.

 

PS  Matt is better  than  silk!!  less shine

 

Great, it will probably end up being poster paints or emulsion, whatever I happen upon in town first thing in the morning.

 

The  unfortunate  thing  is  Cork  is  not  a great  sound  insulator,  sticking  1"  polystyrens sheet under the  baseboard  helps when cork is  used,  Woodland  scenics  underlay  is better   for  sound  insulation  but  its  almost black in colour,  Peco Foam  works  very well  but it is not to a lot of peoples  taste ( visually that  is)

 

Polystyrene sheet is good advice, cheers.

 

Alun

[250BOB]

Rather more expensive, but have you considered using stone-effect spray paint on the cork for the track bed? Made by Rustoleum and Plasticote in various shades, it won't look brilliant, but as a stop-gap it would be better than grey paint.

Certainly these Plasticote products are excellent.....I used one called Manhattan, and I don't think I shall now use real ballast at all.

Bob

[YK 50A]

Certainly these Plasticote products are excellent.....I used one called Manhattan, and I don't think I shall now use real ballast at all.

Bob

 

Now I'm interested, I see B&Q stock it too.  Is that what you've used with Fairfield Junction?  Also, how well does the track lay on top of it, what about once it has been covered in PVA?

 

Cheers,

 

Alun

[250BOB]

Now I'm interested, I see B&Q stock it too. Is that what you've used with Fairfield Junction? Also, how well does the track lay on top of it, what about once it has been covered in PVA?

 

Cheers,

 

Alun

Hi Alun

So you have seen it on my layout thread. I only came across it earlier this year, so I have only done parts of the layout that have been revamped recently . All my pals think it's great, and if you are looking for a good substitute for proper ballast, then this is it.

Get a tin and have a play.

I sprayed onto a previously painted grey background, then you don't have to spray it on too heavily.

 

It can spray over anything, pva etc.,

 

I left it to dry for 24hrs before putting the track down.

 

It's an excellent effect and if I was starting another layout, this would be my direction for all of the track areas. It can be weathered back to look dirtier in depot areas etc.

 

Bob

[YK 50A]

It can spray over anything, pva etc.,

 

I left it to dry for 24hrs before putting the track down.

 

What I meant was, if you spray the trackbed, then glue the track down with PVA, how does it look then?  How even is the surface?

 

Alun

[250BOB]

What I meant was, if you spray the trackbed, then glue the track down with PVA, how does it look then?  How even is the surface?

 

Alun

 

Sorry Alun...I misunderstood.

 

I have stuck my track down on top of the sprayed paint, but I use Copydex, simply because if you want to lift the track later to make amendments to the alignment, it comes off with a little persuasion, and with out damaging the track... If you use PVA, the track can never be lifted without destroying it.

 

I put a little dab of copydex every 3 or 4 inches,I find that sufficient.

 

It dries like a strong elastic, unlike PA which dries like a strong glue.  Get some and try it....my pals have all moved over to it.

 

The surface of the sprayed paint is pretty smooth, and the copydex sticks the track down on it perfectly......the track is really smooth.  I just put a few books on the track while it the copydex dries, and after 30/60 mins its dry.  It dries clear as well, unless you put it on way too thick.

 

Bob

[YK 50A]

Sorry Alun...I misunderstood.

 

I have stuck my track down on top of the sprayed paint, but I use Copydex, simply because if you want to lift the track later to make amendments to the alignment, it comes off with a little persuasion, and with out damaging the track... If you use PVA, the track can never be lifted without destroying it.

 

I put a little dab of copydex every 3 or 4 inches,I find that sufficient.

 

It dries like a strong elastic, unlike PA which dries like a strong glue.  Get some and try it....my pals have all moved over to it.

 

The surface of the sprayed paint is pretty smooth, and the copydex sticks the track down on it perfectly......the track is really smooth.  I just put a few books on the track while it the copydex dries, and after 30/60 mins its dry.  It dries clear as well, unless you put it on way too thick.

 

Bob

 

Not at all and thank you for the detail.  Being able to reuse the track, particularly the pointwork, is a requirement, I was considering Copydex a while ago.

 

One more question (for now ), bearing in mind Plasti-kote is a spray, what did you find was the best way of masking?

 

Thanks again,

 

Alun

[250BOB]

Not at all and thank you for the detail. Being able to reuse the track, particularly the pointwork, is a requirement, I was considering Copydex a while ago.

 

One more question (for now ), bearing in mind Plasti-kote is a spray, what did you find was the best way of masking?

 

Thanks again,

 

Alun

I used masking tape and newspaper....although it was difficult in some areas as I was trying to spray track in difficult areas on occasions.

Like any spray application, good masking is important, as the overspray will creep through gaps.

As you can see, I was spraying onto carpet underlay, and where possible I cut it to shape, painted grey, then sprayed it with the Plastikote. If possible I did this outside, or in the garage, then brought it inside for fitting in to place.

Wished I had come a cross this stuff earlier, as you will see only parts of my layout are sprayed with the speckle, that's the later revamped parts. The other areas being just plain grey Matt emulsion paint. Far too much track and points layed in some areas to go lifting it for spraying.

Bob

[YK 50A]

A great help, thanks Bob.

[250BOB]

A great help, thanks Bob.

 

My pleasure Alun.....fire away if you have further questions anytime.

 

All the best....Bob