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The Furness Valley Railroad


chaz
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Chaz - Model Railroad Hobbyist has a book - review here http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/22877, and I believe has just released a second book of drawings - hope it helps - there are also other items like info on cardstock buildings if you do a search using the search engine at the top of the home-page http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/

 

EDIT1- a direct link to more info and the original book is now available as volume two http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/22171

EDIT2- a further link and ordering info for book two is here http://store.mrhmag.com/store/p52/Structure_Plans_-_vol_1%3A_Wood_frame_and_stone_structures_(Download).html

Edited by shortliner
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And a lot of modellers paint tree-trunks brown - these are often grey, or even green.

 

The artist's maxim - paint what you see, not what you imagine you would see, in other words do the research.

 

Full agreement re. barks !

 

And a lot of manufacturers still make "makadam" sheets in flat black – and modellers buy and use them…

Patchy light grey !!!

 

   Armin

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And a lot of modellers paint tree-trunks brown - these are often grey, or even green.

 

The artist's maxim - paint what you see, not what you imagine you would see, in other words do the research.

A lot of modellers are reality blind and use Humbrol tarmac to paint roads, Humbrol brick red to paint buildings etc etc and then wonder why their layout looks like a Disney cartoon ;-p

 

I've adopted the buy a small range of natural looking colours and mix them to get the colour you need and some variation in tone. Works for me.

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Chaz, if you are still in the throes of track laying you might consider these little beauties. Made by Precision Models and distributed by EDM they would be much easier to fit while track laying rather than after the event as I am doing on Questa.

 

post-10483-0-90703200-1441296462_thumb.jpg

 

Rgds Andrew

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A few shots showing some differences in colour. First up is a shot in the woods above Selworthy showing a darkish ground colour due to the high level of humus from leaf mold

 

post-8525-0-01779100-1389436246_thumb.jpg

 

Second shows the garden having been dug composted and raked ready for turfing showing the reddish tinge

 

post-8525-0-27568100-1408565724_thumb.jpg

 

Thirdly a short of a trackway at the top of Selworthy combe showing a soil colour close to the mushroom I used. As a trackway the surface is dry dusty and has little humus.
 
post-8525-0-56130100-1411893625_thumb.jpg

 

 

Regards Don

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I have a copy of Narrow Gauge Pictorial Volume IX which features Rio Grande Southern right of way and Structures Rico to Durango which gives. at the back, some dimensioned drawings  One problem is that the narrow gauge buildings are built to "Standard gauge" sizes and are in many cases way too big to fit into the landscape.

 

Did you know that the NG&SL gazette is now out as a DVD? It is a slightly frightening 139.95USD but is probably cheaper (and takes up a lot less space than collecting all the copies of NG&SL gazette that I did!)

 

Rgds Andrew

 

Thanks for that information Andrew. I didn't know about the DVD, but as you say the price is a bit intimidating. Of course it's bound to be true that a depot building is going to be much the same size, regardless of the gauge of the track running past it. The people who use it aren't narrow gauge.

 

Chaz

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A few shots showing some differences in colour. First up is a shot in the woods above Selworthy showing a darkish ground colour due to the high level of humus from leaf mold

 

 

 

Second shows the garden having been dug composted and raked ready for turfing showing the reddish tinge

 

 

 

Thirdly a short of a trackway at the top of Selworthy combe showing a soil colour close to the mushroom I used. As a trackway the surface is dry dusty and has little humus.
 
 

 

 

Regards Don

 

 

Where is Selworthy?

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Chaz, if you are still in the throes of track laying you might consider these little beauties. Made by Precision Models and distributed by EDM they would be much easier to fit while track laying rather than after the event as I am doing on Questa.

 

attachicon.gifHarp stands.jpg

 

Rgds Andrew

 

Those are very nice. I am still in the early stages of laying track and have no yet put down the first switch, so I am in plenty of time. A couple of questions if I may - Do these actually operate the switches? Do you know if Precision Models also do the type of switch stand that has a rotating target on its top?

 

Chaz

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A lot of modellers are reality blind and use Humbrol tarmac to paint roads, Humbrol brick red to paint buildings etc etc and then wonder why their layout looks like a Disney cartoon ;-p

 

I've adopted the buy a small range of natural looking colours and mix them to get the colour you need and some variation in tone. Works for me.

 

You have that right. If you have seen Dock Green, either in the flesh or here on the forum (link below) you will know that I'm not one on the gang that thinks that if it says "concrete" on the Humbrol colour chart it's going to look anything like concrete on a model.

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You have that right. If you have seen Dock Green, either in the flesh or here on the forum (link below) you will know that I'm not one on the gang that thinks that if it says "concrete" on the Humbrol colour chart it's going to look anything like concrete on a model.

Yes, seen Dock Green on the flesh and spoke to you at Telford. I like your approach to colour.

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Chaz - Model Railroad Hobbyist has a book - review here http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/22877, and I believe has just released a second book of drawings - hope it helps - there are also other items like info on cardstock buildings if you do a search using the search engine at the top of the home-page http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/

 

EDIT1- a direct link to more info and the original book is now available as volume two http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/22171

EDIT2- a further link and ordering info for book two is here http://store.mrhmag.com/store/p52/Structure_Plans_-_vol_1%3A_Wood_frame_and_stone_structures_(Download).html

 

Thanks for those very useful links - I have just had a brief look at the review which is most encouraging. I will follow this up and may well buy a copy - I would much prefer making my buildings

from drawings and dimensions of the real thing - I'm not keen on "models of models".

 

Chaz

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Yes, seen Dock Green on the flesh and spoke to you at Telford. I like your approach to colour.

 

You must forgive my sieve-brain memory - pathetic I know but as Sue often says to me - "It's your age dear!".

 

ATB

 

Chaz

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Chaz - The stands are from Precision Scale Co in the US. The Harp stand is p/n 40260 and they do a rotating version p/n 40259. The Harp stands can be made to operate the points (lift lever out of detent and move across to change point direction) As I use point motors, I filled in the oblong slot so that the lug that fits in the detent is above the frame.

 

As I said EDM sell them in the UK - you would need to contact Paul as I cannot work out on his site where they are listed!

 

Rgds Andrew

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Chaz - The stands are from Precision Scale Co in the US. The Harp stand is p/n 40260 and they do a rotating version p/n 40259. The Harp stands can be made to operate the points (lift lever out of detent and move across to change point direction) As I use point motors, I filled in the oblong slot so that the lug that fits in the detent is above the frame.

 

As I said EDM sell them in the UK - you would need to contact Paul as I cannot work out on his site where they are listed!

 

Rgds Andrew

 

Thanks again, Andrew - I thought you would know. I think Paul is away for a bit - first at Telford and then on the Ffestiniog but I will contact him later to see if he has any 40259 in stock.

 

Chaz

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Chaz there is a big hill called North Hill which runs from Minehead towards Porlock. Selworthy Beacon is the highest point along there and the village is below part way along. Basically all three photos are on the same underlying rocks the stones which abound in our garden match those on Selworthy. On a clear day from the top you can see from Worms head Gower to the Severn Bridge

 

Don

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A bit more progress on the doodlebug. I have drilled the roof for the headlight and I changed my mind and will fit a back-up light as well. (This decision might have something to do with the fact that when I had drilled the hole for the headlight I suddenly realised that I had drilled the wrong end of the roof :O ).

 

P1050363-2%20700%20x%20525_zpsfyi54jnn.j

 

I also gave the body shell a coat of Revell 84 as an undercoat. As I was putting it on it was fairly obvious why this is a good choice as an u/c for crimson. It will need a second coat - the colour needs to be very even - any variations in colour will show through the crimson which has poor covering power - as evidenced by the test with different undercoats.

 

Now here's a question - is it possible to dismantle a Bachmann boxcar? Specifically to get the roof off without damage. This will make it much easier to paint the interior. The roof appears to be clipped at the corners but I don't want to break anything, so if there is a knack please tell me....

 

Chaz

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Box car roof - There are 4 clips. one at each corner. A thin blade inserted between the side and the roof can be used to gently ease them apart. That's on a sliding door box car, assume they are all the same

 

Rgds Andrew

 

PS Good luck with Dock Green tomorrow, I've got my On30 at Soar Valley in Loughborough this weekend (No Telford - saves me a fortune!)

Edited by AJon30
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Box car roof - There are 4 clips. one at each corner. A thin blade inserted between the side and the roof can be used to gently ease them apart. That's on a sliding door box car, assume they are all the same

 

Rgds Andrew

 

PS Good luck with Dock Green tomorrow, I've got my On30 at Soar Valley in Loughborough this weekend (No Telford - saves me a fortune!)

 

I hadn't realised you have an On30 exhibition layout. Good luck yourself!

 

Will try the blade trick this evening.

 

Chaz

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I managed to get the roof off a Bachmann boxcar.

 

P1050378-2%20700%20x%20434_zpstrht1hv2.j

 

Inserting that jeweler's screwdriver between the roof and the side, about 10mm from the corner and levering it gently upwards did the trick. As is often the case with these kind of clip-together models releasing the clips on one side was enough - the roof came free. Worth doing this if you intend to repaint the car body as not only does it give you access to the interior but it also allows the sliding doors to be removed for painting.

 

Once the roof is removed these very delicate brackets are vulnerable...

 

P1050379-2%20700%20x%20421_zpst4vkhett.j

 

It's probably better not to put the car upside down until the roof is back on.

 

Chaz

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You're up and modelling early Chaz!

 

Not so, mate. :no: This was done last night - I'm up early as we are off shortly for our Sunday stint at the Andover show.

 

I am going to try a keep at least one piece of On30 rolling stock on my bench and make some progress with it each evening. That way I should have a reasonable collection painted, lettered and weathered for when the trains start to roll up and down the Furness Valley.

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Hello Chaz, yes the Club has an On30 layout which I been heavily involved with, called Questa. Here are some shots today from Loughborough (it was a nice change to have a plain pastel background!) 

 

post-10483-0-79060900-1441579977_thumb.jpg

 

post-10483-0-83677400-1441579991_thumb.jpg

 

post-10483-0-54730300-1441580007_thumb.jpg

 

Hope Dock Green behaved itself.

 

Rgds Andrew

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My next conversion job.

 

P1050407-2%20700%20x%20399_zpsd8icpnsn.j

 

A good model, but even if you don't do anything else it really does need painting. Mine will be "Americanised" with the laser-cut cab kit from Mount Blue Model Co which I bought from Paul Martin at EDM models. In as-bought condition it does look very colonial, which is not surprising, given its prototype.

 

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=ixion+coffee+pot&lr&hl=en&as_qdr=all&tbm=isch&imgil=wCym3sZ6CQKoiM%253A%253BmBcYtaPnePVasM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ngtrains.com%25252FPages%25252FIxion%25252FOffer%25252Fixion_offers.html&source=iu&pf=m&fir=wCym3sZ6CQKoiM%253A%252CmBcYtaPnePVasM%252C_&biw=1600&bih=761&usg=__LKPd7qDYJVzD7mgeZ2j38gMvVgo%3D&ved=0CEMQyjdqFQoTCNqllYWA8ccCFcQ4FAod8FsBaA&ei=3tfzVdq-GMTxUPC3hcAG#imgrc=aaoP26i07GkjrM%3A&usg=__LKPd7qDYJVzD7mgeZ2j38gMvVgo%3D

 

Second picture shows it with its roof off, ready for paint with Railmatch "Roof Dirt".

 

P1050409-2%20700%20x%20372_zpscskicwto.j

 

It's a pity about those chopper couplings - they are very nicely modelled - but they will have to come off and be replaced with Kadee buckeyes. It's in company with the body shell of the Backwoods/Bachmann motor car. I am glad I did the colour tests, the Humbrol crimson over Revel dark brown has produced a beautiful rich, dark effect. As is usual the photo highlights a couple of defects - in this case areas that escaped the brush.

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Yesterday I made a start on converting the Ixion coffee-pot by partially disassembling it. I had previously downloaded a PDF from the Ixion website on doing this.

 

P1050412-2%20800%20x%20241_zpsuemj4yvg.j

 

Getting it to this stage was not quite as easy as the instructions led me to believe. I found that the electrical connector could not be removed until after the loco part had been separated from the coach. The "L" shaped metal piece could not just be lifted out once its fixing screw was removed but required fairly forceful levering with a screwdriver. Both the cab and the backhead were pretty firmly glued in place and needed firm pressure to break the glue joints.

 

A simple first step was to paint the boiler and the cylinders (both in a pinky crimson) to a more realistic satin black (Humbrol #85).

 

P1050413-2%20700%20x%20424_zps6v7wdq6i.j

 

I stuck the stack (chimney) into a chunk of Plasticene as a way of supporting the boiler while the paint dries. More on this later, including the laser-cut cab kit.

Edited by chaz
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