Catweasel Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Returning to the fold after many years. I've joined the local club and just got the materials for the base boards. Due to space restrictions, each 'board,of which there are 2, is 1030 mm long, which will fit between the wheel arches of the car. Width is 606 mm. The top is 6 mm ply and will be well braced all round with 18 x 69 timber. Track will be Code 75 from Peco and will be DCC. I also intend to use Cobalt point motors. I'm basing the track plan on Wantage. I'm not a lover of mainline loco's, preferring the industrial animal. I've just got a 9" Barclay from ARC to play with, and also the required Hornby Pug.Have to go now as I have a coffee to drink and timber to cut! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PjKing1 Posted March 6, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 6, 2014 Good luck with the layout, plenty of info and help from people on here, so never be afraid to ask! Cheers Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catweasel Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 Cheers Paul.As this is my first dip into the DCC pond I'm a bit wary about wiring. There are 6 live frog "Y"s on the layout,and I will be using a Hornby eLink system. I've also got to fit a chip to the Pug,but that's no problem. I'm not going to bother with sound either at the moment. My fingers are firmly crossed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PjKing1 Posted March 7, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 7, 2014 Morning, it was my first go at dcc to and to be honest it's pretty easy, I would advise wiring/changing the points so the frog polarity is changed automatically, (or manually by a switch) which is what the cobalt does, well the analogue version DCP-CB1 does which is the one I use, it can be linked to a decoder but I prefer to wire them to switches. I'm no expert though on electrics but if I can do it it must be straight forward!! As for the sound though once you get one there's no going back I'd highly recommend it, although a bit costly it's well worth it. Hope that helps Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catweasel Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 The trouble with sound is that it can't be scaled down. Every loco I've heard sounds very "tinny", with no real sense of massive machinery getting going. One aspect I would like to try is under the board systems,with decent size speakers to give a low bass effect, synchro'd to the loco's. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PjKing1 Posted March 7, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 7, 2014 I thought about that when I tried with n gauge, but decided I wanted sound fitted locos so moved back up to oo. I'm no expert with sound either though, the speakers I've fitted replace the fans, but you can fit speakers or extra speakers in the fuel tanks etc, something I'm going to do at a later date. The sounds are quite impressive to me an I don't think I could go back to non sound!! I heard a friends zimmo sound chipped 20 & 37 the other day and I was very impressed, all of mine are legomanbiffo's. But to be honest I don't think YouTube and the like do the sounds justice, there are some videos on my layout link below of some of my sound chipped loco's not great quality but might be worth looking at mate to give you an idea. I'm sure someone can help you on under board sound in the dcc sound section to. Cheers Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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