ThePurplePrimer Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 Hi guys What is the best adhesive to use when attaching lead sheet to styrene - is superglue a long term option ? Anything that I should bear in mind when doing this ? Note - where it is going I wont be able to get to it to do any repairs once the model is finished ( loco ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herr Dienstleiter Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 I wouldn't ... I would glue the lead to paper and then glue the paper to the styrene. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 5 minute epoxy should be fine. I have also recently glued brass sheet to styrene using UHU non solvent adhesive with good results, however I suspect it needs longer to set properly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugsley Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 I've used the solvent based UHU glue to secure lead to styrene before. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted March 28, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 28, 2014 I wouldn't ... I would glue the lead to paper and then glue the paper to the styrene. Can you expand on why? I have glued lead weight directly to a lot of plastic kits with superglue over the last few years, doesn't seem to be any issues so far. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium petethemole Posted March 28, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 28, 2014 I use UHU to attach lead (and other) ballast to wagon kits. If inside a van, leave the roof off for a few hours for the solvent to evaporate. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herr Dienstleiter Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 Can you expand on why? I have glued lead weight directly to a lot of plastic kits with superglue over the last few years, doesn't seem to be any issues so far. I am probably more cautious about using a superglue on two such very different materials than others who have replied. Put it down to my funny little ways or having less experience with the adhesives. I also like the idea of a cushion, so to speak, between materials that have different expansion characteristics and the like. Adhesives vary in their effectiveness over a long period and having an intermediate allows for the use of a mix of media which is sometimes quite helpful. I wouldn't want to be pedantic about it though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazzler Fan Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 I think something flexible, like contact adhesive, or even silicone caulking.- ever tried cleaning up after caulking?I would have thought anything that drys hard was bad news later. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Zero Gravitas Posted March 29, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 29, 2014 I've used UHU for gluing lead to styrene for the last 20 years, and never had a single issue. I make sure the lead is pretty flat, and then a smear of glue on lead and styrene, join and leave to set. If it's in a box van, then I drill a small hole somewhere in the floor (1mm dia) just so any fumes can get out before I fix the roof on, but that's about it. Best Regards, ZG. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 I've had the occasional piece of lead come loose over the years; usually inside a van.. These days, I fix the lead inside with epoxy (having given the surface a quick rub to expose bright metal). When the epoxy's set, I drill from underneath, and add a self-tapper to fix the thing properly. Over forty or so years, I haven't had many failures with lead weights, but they've almost always been in covered vehicles, hence the 'belt and braces' approach. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 I've had the occasional piece of lead come loose over the years; usually inside a van.. These days, I fix the lead inside with epoxy (having given the surface a quick rub to expose bright metal). When the epoxy's set, I drill from underneath, and add a self-tapper to fix the thing properly. Over forty or so years, I haven't had many failures with lead weights, but they've almost always been in covered vehicles, hence the 'belt and braces' approach. I'd second the self tapper as a belt and braces. I've also used a twisted wire loop. In fact anything mechanical will do. As Brian says "it's always a van"...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 I'd second the self tapper as a belt and braces. I've also used a twisted wire loop. In fact anything mechanical will do. As Brian says "it's always a van"...... And if it's not a van, it falls off on an inaccessible bit of track, then shorts the whole job out... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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