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Bachmann On30 down to 4mm scale

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0-4-0 narrow gauge pug, conversion to standard gauge. So here's my go at bodging a Bachamnn. The body is built up of metal die-castings with plastic details.

So it comes apart reasonably easily.

The metal saddle tank which hides the motor and makes a major contribution to the pug's adhesive weight is bolted to that strip of wood using it's fixing screw holes, hacksaw surgery is taking place.

Card board pattern cab to give an idea of what it will look like and the giant chimney spark arrestor top has been cut off just above the start of its flare to leave a lip. The rear footplate has had about 2mm cut of from each side, I've yet to decide on the design of cab, curved roof or wrap over plate like Manning Wardle?







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It's a good basic mechanism, although I've found that the 0-4-2 runs better. Years ago, when they were cheap, I bought a few with the intention of using them for 4mm projects. Another thing I've yet to get around to. I shall watch with interest.

That headlight needs to go, and a saddle tank that sits lower will look better, and less Porter like.

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  • 5 months later...



Novel chance to model a cut away cab
At this end of the layout it's beginning to look like a scrap siding at Barry Island at the height of the preservation and rescue era. This project has had nothing done to it for a while. The side of the cab has fallen off due to a blue-tack failure. What really happened is that I was not sure what to do next with the tank; reshape the original one so it is smaller or make a new one.

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It looks like if you could find a smaller motor to suit the Bachmann worm gear and fit a lower saddle tank it will make an excellent little shunter, if a smaller motor could be bodged in would the chassis suit the Hornby caley pug I wonder?

Maybe lose the headlamp and simplify the safety valve but it's looking good.

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  • 4 months later...

Cab detailing by sticking slithers of plasticard on to the cab side to breakup the slab appearance. Trying to get trim around the cab hatchway was difficult it would not stay curved and would try to straighten out before the solvent glue had time to set and hold it in place.

In the end I used masking tape, one large piece would hold the trim and still allow the solvent to dry off. A corner at a time so several days to do each side. Detailing always takes the longest.




Thanks David for the comment on changing the motor, my mech skills are not very good that's way I'm using a ready made chassis and just changing 

the cosmetic body. I guess it could be done, I'll let some one else do the trial and error work and then show us on here.


I might get my big file out and try to reduce the saddle tank a little more.


Also the headlamp stays, at least for now, this model has to cross the high moors to the quarries and mine, on a short winters day it is dark and the last train

home needs the big lamp to light it's way across the moors.

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