Newtz1981 Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Hello everyone. I have been collecting o gauge models for many years now, however due to space restrictions I have not been able to build a layout for them. I started off back in 2007 when I sold over 40 of my 00 gauge models to purchase a Fine Scale Brass Black 5. Over the next few years this grew to include an 8F, Rebuilt Scott, two ex-LMS 2MT 2-6-0s, a Jubilee, a 4F, a Crab 2-6-0, another Black 5, a Jinty that I need to kit-bash to complete and more recently I have purchased two Gladiator kits: a Stanier Mogul and an LMS Patriot. Rolling stock is still slowly growing. I have bought many Slaters kits and these are coming along. Anyway, following a house move a month ago I finally had space to start building a layout. Three baseboards have been built, each 4ft x 2ft 6inches. These three will make up the scenic sections of the layout and fiddle yards/sector plates shall be added at either end at a later date. I will write up more about my aims, etc as I go along, so for now I will just add photos and the like to show what I am doing and how things are progressing. So, to begin with here are two shots showing the rough track plan over boards 1 & 2. I'm still trying to work out how to use Templot, so I'm doing things the old fashion way for now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted August 24, 2014 Author Share Posted August 24, 2014 I've been purchasing items from Skytrex lately as I like the range they have and I am finding that they offer a great way for first time 7mm modellers to get use to the size of buildings, etc. In the photos below is one of their bridges. The castings come in a cream colour and are also rather slippery. So first thing was to give all the parts a good wash in warm soapy water and pat them dry with a towel. Then they were allowed to dry for an hour. The look I want to achieve is that of what I have seen in and around Lancashire and Yorkshire when I last visited the UK back in 2013, that being blackened stone structures. The cream colour that Skytrex provides us with is a reasonable base to start from, so to begin with I added two coats of Oak wood stain. Each coat too 24 hours to dry and what I was left with was a result that still showed parts of the cream colour of the casting, however there was lovely detail in the brick work. Once these two coats of wood stain had been given 48 hours to dry properly I sprayed the bridge with satin black, holding the spray can roughly 1ft away from the model. This gave me excellent control over the look I wanted to achieve and I was left with a great subtle result rather than one that I was unhappy with. The stage I am up to now is to pick out a few stones with different shades and then add a light mortimer to finish it off. Overall I am very pleased with how this Skytrex bridge is looking and it just goes to show what can be achieved when referencing photos to get a realistic finish. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Looking good, and interesting, can't wait to see it developing, as you say it takes a little getting used to the size of structures but there is a great deal of scope for fine detailing and it's worth putting the time in on things like the subtle colouring of stone walls. Keep up the good work! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian G Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Looking good. Ian G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted August 24, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 24, 2014 I'm still trying to work out how to use Templot Hi, Templot is intended for handbuilt pointwork. If you are using Peco pointwork it is not suitable and you would do better using AnyRail instead: http://anyrail.com Project looks good. regards, Martin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted August 24, 2014 Author Share Posted August 24, 2014 Hi, Templot is intended for handbuilt pointwork. If you are using Peco pointwork it is not suitable and you would do better using AnyRail instead: http://anyrail.com Project looks good. regards, Martin. Hello Martin, Thank you for that advice, I was unaware that Templot was mainly for that purpose. I will have a look at AnyRail through the week Thank you for the compliment too. Regards, Jonathan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Bathurst Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Looks like an interesting project. I like your 4f. Would like to see some pictures of your other locos. scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted August 25, 2014 Author Share Posted August 25, 2014 Looks like an interesting project. I like your 4f. Would like to see some pictures of your other locos. scott Hello Scott, Thank you for your post. It is going to be an interesting and fun project I'm sure. Here are a few photos of some of my other loco's. They are being detailed progressively and to date non of them are finished, but 45562 is not too far off. Jubilee 45562 Alberta - Fine Scale Brass. She came in BR green and I have used Severn Mill plates (however the smoke box numbers are so hard to paint so they are yet to be done). Lining and cab side numbers are from Fox Transfers. The 8F is also a Fine Scale Brass loco and has been numbered 48773 (SVR based). This number was chosen because I spend a day driving and firing her back in 2002. I have been picking out detail on the backhead. The loco behind the 8F is a Bachmann Brassworks ex-LMS 2MT. Again, cab detail is taking place. Regards, Jonathan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted August 25, 2014 Author Share Posted August 25, 2014 The top of the Skytrex bridge has now been painted and weathered with Flat Black. Stage #1 of weathering completed on this bridge. Now to pick out more detail and add in mortar courses, etc. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 In my growing collections of models for the layout I have several building kits from Skytrex. This consists of a MR wooden station building, a few other platform buildings and MR signal box. The quality of the castings of these models is wonderful, however I have found that Skytrex products need to be thoroughly washed before any work is done to them. Working on the station building at the moment, I have cut away all the excess pieces around the doors and windows and given the model a tidy up with a sharp blade. This morning I have given the castings an undercoat in grey primer. This was applied in a spray can and the casting were painted from four directions to make sure that the paint would get into the corners and lips at all angles. These photos, below, show most of the parts of the station building after they became 'touch-dry' and were removed from the paper sheets that I used as base while spraying them. Tomorrow I may do the same to the castings for the signal box. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted August 27, 2014 Author Share Posted August 27, 2014 Today I picked up a Double Slip for the layout - an expensive item however it is worth its weight in gold given the fact that it will save space and also allow me to keep the track plan I have set out. What I have also done is added a small siding off the mainline which will run into a small dock platform at the station. So, now that I have all the track I need I can start to get down and prepare things for track laying. Time to watch the Right Track DVD with Norman Soloman a few times I think Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Nice, very nice. The feeling of track in your hands as you move it around the boards giving rise to new thoughts on track plans is very rewarding. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Looking good Newtz. Recommend AnyRail for a quick draw up and they hold libraries of Peco track too. They have a free version limited to 50 pieces which I have always found plenty enough for my needs and looking at you track it should do for you too. The 50 limit is per each plan so you can have plenty of goes. Just noted that your plan is not unlike mine see the link in my signature. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derbys65 Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Looking good, bit further than i have at the moment lol . Im a new O gauge modeller too . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted August 27, 2014 Author Share Posted August 27, 2014 Looking good Newtz. Recommend AnyRail for a quick draw up and they hold libraries of Peco track too. They have a free version limited to 50 pieces which I have always found plenty enough for my needs and looking at you track it should do for you too. The 50 limit is per each plan so you can have plenty of goes. Just noted that your plan is not unlike mine see the link in my signature. Regards Thank you Barnaby, I had a look at your post that you gave the link for and I do see the similarity between our layouts. I look forward to watching your progress. I have had a look at AnyRail, however being a Mac user I need to find a local friend with a PC so I can make use of it. I did also find a design program called RailModeller, which runs on the Mac and also has Peco track components, however you can not print or save the layout design out unless you buy the package - and according to their website that feature is offline until September However, at least I can design it and make a screen shot and use it as a rough guide. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted August 30, 2014 Author Share Posted August 30, 2014 Painting on the station building has commenced today with a first coat of cream being applied. I have used Humbrol #148 for this. It is a matt paint and it goes on rather well. Clearly I will need at least two coats so that the grey primer undercoat no longer shows through. The doors have been painted in Humbrol #73 'Wine' - this is also a matt base. I must be honest and say how much I love this particular paint! It applies so easily and covers the surface liberally enough to get a great finish with just one coat. I'm very pleased with this choice! The roof has also received only coat so far and this was painted using Humbrol #91 'Black Green' - another matt. The second coat to go on the roof will be Humbrol #224 'Dark Slate Grey' - once again, it is matt. The intention for the station, once it has been painted completely, is to weather it to represent what it may have looked like in the early 1960s - far from pristine. That is also why I have chosen to use matt paints, as I do not want a freshly painted look to all the buildings. It will also take away the 'toy train set' look. Right, enough writing - time for a tea and then back to it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Flynn Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 Hi Looks like you have making a good start,enough to keep you busy for a while. will watch with interest. Hugh Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 Waking up on a Thursday morning at 3:45am could present a problem, however building a model railway gives you something to occupy the time with. So, the paints and brushes came out this morning and more work has been done on the station building. I have added the red to the lower part of the building and the brickwork has also been painted. When the paint is totally dry in 24hrs I will mask off the cream and paint over the top of the red area again, just to give it a clean break. The window frames and door frames will also be painted red too, after which I will add a plastic backing and glaze the windows. Eventually I will add detail in the brickwork and also weather the building. I intend to give the model a coat in very thinned down matt dark brown so that it really gets into the recesses in the timber cladding, then bringing out more dust/dirt build up as well as a little matt black to represent ash and smoke that has settled over the building. On another note I also purchased the platform canopy for this building from Skytrex. This arrived a few days ago and the top of it has been painted in the same way, using the same colours, as the roof of the station (see above). I am giving thought to interior detail now too. I intend to create a well furnished booking office and waiting room. For this I have ordered several items from the Ten Commandments range, which will hopefully arrive soon. Anyway, more will appear on that as the model slowly gets assembled. For now, enjoy the photos below of this mornings efforts Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 Taking the plunge in to weathering I have commenced on the 4F this morning. The loco is a Bachmann Brassworks model. I have a range of Humbrol products that I am using to do the weathering and what you see below in the photos has been achieved by using: Humbrol Powers - Iron Oxide. And Black. Humbrol Wash - Gloss Oil Stain The wheels and rods have been given a messy and non-uniform coat of the Oil wash as well as a little around the buffer beam and the drag box. The Iron Oxide powder is very strong and so this has been used very sparingly and carefully to slowly build up the desired look. Naturally, the loco is not finished however I am so impressed with these preliminary results Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 I hope you won't mind if I comment on your 4F? Be careful with the rust, locos still in service would betray traces of rust but generally the amount of rust you have on the smokebox is more typical of the scrapyard. What is more likely is sooty grime with oil and grease predominating below the footplate. Steam locos are inherently dirty machines and even with constant attention are never really clean. The one place on a steam loco where rust is a certainty is the ashpan, where any paint very quickly burns away. Have you seen Martyn Welch's "The Art of Weathering"? Well worth reading. Here are a couple of snaps of one of my tank locos... Good luck with your layout. Looking forward to seeing it progress. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted September 5, 2014 Author Share Posted September 5, 2014 Last night I took out the Right Track DVD about weathering, with Tim Shakleton. I watched how he took a brand new Bachmann WD 2-8-0 and made it look work heavy. So the airbrush came out today, after purchasing a compressor, and I have started to work on the 4F. I took off most of the powder that I applied yesterday (thanks for the above comment CHAZ) however I left enough to give highlights around a few rivets, etc. I applied some thinners to the cabside numbers to give represent the crews cleaning only that area of the loco. I've gone for a look that shows dirt and grime, but not at the very end of steam when they were completely caked full of oil, dust and rust. I have not finished the weathering on the 4F however I am very pleased with how it is looking now. Dirty, without looking like it going to the scrap yard. More to follow soon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted September 5, 2014 Share Posted September 5, 2014 Much better! Now you have an airbrush so you can do the next bit - a haze of sooty matt black along the top of the smokebox, boiler and cab. Quite a lot of the clag that comes out of the chimney lands there! Have a look at this snap of No. 9. Looks very clean and well cared for doesn't it? But look at the top of the streamlined casing! You are very wise to creep up on this weathering malarky a bit at a time. It's very easy to overcook it. Often subtle is best. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted September 5, 2014 Share Posted September 5, 2014 That's looking much more like a worked hard loco Newtz and Chaz subtle is so true but not something I've managed to master yet, but I'll keep on trying. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted September 5, 2014 Share Posted September 5, 2014 It's coming along nicely, a lot of midland men when they cleaned the cab side numbers left the first 4 dirty so just the old LMS number showed through. It would make a nice touch Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted September 7, 2014 Author Share Posted September 7, 2014 Smoke box plates added as well as builders plates. More weathering added too. She is looking amazing I think Photos of what the 4F looks like now: Compare the above photos to how the model looked only a few days ago. Massive change! She now looks like a locomotive rather than a model. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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