DCC Wiring

[Bosswasp]

Can anyone help me with wiring my lay out which contains two reverse loops and sidings?

 

See attachedLayout.pdf

[csiedmo]

I would suggest that you have up to three areas where you will get short circuits, the two reversing loops and the crossover if it is a live crossover.

If you're using a insulated crossover then the crossover won't be a problem.

Assuming you're using a live crossover, I would suggest that you fit insulated rail joiners on all rails of the crossover.

For the reversing loops, I suggest that you isolate a section of track in each loop.

You will then wire up the rest of the layout in the logical way such that all of the rails you haven't purposefully isolated will get some electricity and such that you don't have any short circuits.

You will then be left with six unpowered bits of track, for which there exists the ideal product: the Hex Frog Juicer (HFJ) made by Tam Valley Depot.

This bit of kit has a pair of inputs that you attach to your DCC bus and 6 outputs.

Attach one of the outputs to one frog of your crossover, another of the outputs to the other frog of the crossover, a third and fourth output to the + and - rails to the isolated track on one of your reversing loops and the fifth and sixth outputs to the + and - rails of the isolated track on the other of your reversing loops. The HFJ will power the isolated sections seamlessly detecting short circuits and routing the "juice" as required. I suggest you google the frog juicer and make sure you understand it before you go ahead though.

 

Note that this isn't the only way to wire your crossover and loops and it probably isn't the cheapest, and I'm pretty sure that its the easiest and most reliable.

Good luck.

Ed

[Bosswasp]

I would suggest that you have up to three areas where you will get short circuits, the two reversing loops and the crossover if it is a live crossover.

If you're using a insulated crossover then the crossover won't be a problem.

Assuming you're using a live crossover, I would suggest that you fit insulated rail joiners on all rails of the crossover.

For the reversing loops, I suggest that you isolate a section of track in each loop.

You will then wire up the rest of the layout in the logical way such that all of the rails you haven't purposefully isolated will get some electricity and such that you don't have any short circuits.

You will then be left with six unpowered bits of track, for which there exists the ideal product: the Hex Frog Juicer (HFJ) made by Tam Valley Depot.

This bit of kit has a pair of inputs that you attach to your DCC bus and 6 outputs.

Attach one of the outputs to one frog of your crossover, another of the outputs to the other frog of the crossover, a third and fourth output to the + and - rails to the isolated track on one of your reversing loops and the fifth and sixth outputs to the + and - rails of the isolated track on the other of your reversing loops. The HFJ will power the isolated sections seamlessly detecting short circuits and routing the "juice" as required. I suggest you google the frog juicer and make sure you understand it before you go ahead though.

 

Note that this isn't the only way to wire your crossover and loops and it probably isn't the cheapest, and I'm pretty sure that its the easiest and most reliable.

Good luck.

Ed

Thanks, I'm new to all this and what you have told me sound daunting, don't suppose you could take sketch it on the PDF I have attached and re-post?

[csiedmo]

Hello,

 

See attachment.

 

Basic Wiring:

 

The brown marks are where I've picked a rail and followed it all the way round the layout to indicate that every section of track marked brown needs to be fed with, lets say the positive wire from your DCC bus. (I've done this rather carelessly and incompletely, as I missed doing a few of the sidings but I hope you get the general idea).

Thus the other rail remaining black will need to be fed from the negative wire from your DCC bus. (Or it can be the other way around if you prefer).

I would recommend that you feed at least every-other section of plain track from the bus. (Some people would recommend that you feed EVERY section of track directly from the bus, and maybe that's the way to go if you're exhibiting your layout, but for home layouts I think its a bit overkill) I would also recommend that you feed ALL turnouts directly from the bus to the "thin" end of the turnout, and that you directly feed every piece of track that follows the "fat" end of the turnout.

 

Isolation and Special Wiring:

 

You will notice that there are two sections of the layout where brown would meet black in the reversing loops, which is where you would need some special wiring.

Where I have drawn red lines, I recommend placing insulated rail joiners instead of the metal ones.

Where I have drawn the 6 blue blobs, here is where you should attach the outputs from the Hex Frog Juicer (HFJ).

 

As I said previously, the isolation (red lines) on the crossover is not necessary if you're using an dead-frog crossover.

If you are using a live-frog crossover, then I suggest you need them.

Although I have suggested using the HFJ to power the live crossover, if you are using live turnouts with polarity-switched frogs you COULD power the crossing from the turnout frogs of the two turnouts that are next to the crossing, but I figure that as the HFJ has 6 outputs you might as well make use of the otherwise spare 2 outputs.

 

If you are using live-frog turnouts you will also need to place insulated rail joiners on the frog rails (the middle rails at the "fat" end).

 

If I confused you further, let me know.

If cleverer folk than me think I'm talking nonsense, please say!

 

Thanks,

Ed

 

[Bosswasp]

Hello,

 

See attachment.

 

Basic Wiring:

 

The brown marks are where I've picked a rail and followed it all the way round the layout to indicate that every section of track marked brown needs to be fed with, lets say the positive wire from your DCC bus. (I've done this rather carelessly and incompletely, as I missed doing a few of the sidings but I hope you get the general idea).

Thus the other rail remaining black will need to be fed from the negative wire from your DCC bus. (Or it can be the other way around if you prefer).

I would recommend that you feed at least every-other section of plain track from the bus. (Some people would recommend that you feed EVERY section of track directly from the bus, and maybe that's the way to go if you're exhibiting your layout, but for home layouts I think its a bit overkill) I would also recommend that you feed ALL turnouts directly from the bus to the "thin" end of the turnout, and that you directly feed every piece of track that follows the "fat" end of the turnout.

 

Isolation and Special Wiring:

 

You will notice that there are two sections of the layout where brown would meet black in the reversing loops, which is where you would need some special wiring.

Where I have drawn red lines, I recommend placing insulated rail joiners instead of the metal ones.

Where I have drawn the 6 blue blobs, here is where you should attach the outputs from the Hex Frog Juicer (HFJ).

 

As I said previously, the isolation (red lines) on the crossover is not necessary if you're using an dead-frog crossover.

If you are using a live-frog crossover, then I suggest you need them.

Although I have suggested using the HFJ to power the live crossover, if you are using live turnouts with polarity-switched frogs you COULD power the crossing from the turnout frogs of the two turnouts that are next to the crossing, but I figure that as the HFJ has 6 outputs you might as well make use of the otherwise spare 2 outputs.

 

If you are using live-frog turnouts you will also need to place insulated rail joiners on the frog rails (the middle rails at the "fat" end).

 

If I confused you further, let me know.

If cleverer folk than me think I'm talking nonsense, please say!

 

Thanks,

Ed

Thanks Ed