jhock Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Does any one know if there is a supplier of micro engineering track in the UK? I am thinking a I might use the code 70 on my new layout if am can get hold of it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewC Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Model Junction used to. You may want to contact them to see if they can get it in for you. Other than that I haven't seen anyone else stock it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parthia27 Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Does any one know if there is a supplier of micro engineering track in the UK? I am thinking a I might use the code 70 on my new layout if am can get hold of it. The only time I have seen it was on P&H Models stand a few years ago but that was Code 83. Personally I put a bulk order in with MB Klein in US when needed. I try to keep at least 4 turnouts and about 10 yards of track 'in stock' for both Code 70 and Code 83. Shipping across the pond is expensive but as I like this track so much I am willing to pay for this. Personally if I was not able to economically justify the cost of shipping I would go back to hand built track, probably using ME rail and turnout building tools from either Proto87 Stores or Fastracks. Cheers Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Smith Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Are you looking at HO or On30? both are available in both Code 83 and 70. I'm sure the rails are the same just the ties being different. I have used code 70 On30 and am very pleased with it so far. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhock Posted September 15, 2014 Author Share Posted September 15, 2014 I am looking for the HO code 70. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
298 Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Shinohara code 70 is available from Scalelink, if you can live with it as an alternative. Supplying lighter section track for the Shortline or pre-diesel era modeller is obviously an area that Peco could be very successful at... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Smith Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 The ME track is somewhat more delicate than Peco which perhaps is its attraction over Peco. I've not seen Peco 83 close up but I'm thinking it is a bit chunkier than even code 83 ME track. The spike heads are tiny to say the least and it is fairly easy to dislodge rail accidentally - luckily it goes back fairly easily..... The point tie rods (switch rods) are finer, the point rails are machined solid rail and hinged to the closure rails using rail joiners. The frog is an isolated casting so needs to be polarity switched. This type of construction doesn't fit with the Peco reliability and robustness philosophy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Peco Code 83 isn't all that robust... not once it's laid, anyway, and you try to re-lift it. Guess how I know..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Smith Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 It is relatively robust compared to ME.....I've stuck my ME down with contact adhesive - it's never coming up! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewC Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Personally I'd never bother with it again. It looks good but its a pain in the arse to use. The difference in appearance v usability is such that I'm prepared to use Peco 83 and live with the compromise. I purchased the ME code 83 concrete tie flex track for the layout as the Peco was not yet available. Aggravating and frustrating are the 2 words I'd use to describe it. I spent more time cleaning the flash off the ties than I did laying and painting the stuff. One word of warning too. The lengths aren't quite 36" long. Found that out the hard way on the modules when I needed 5 lengths to cover 3 x 4' modules instead of 4. I won't bother trying to describe the quality of their steel viaduct kit. That would likely get me banned. Banana sprue is a phrase that comes to mind. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Reichert Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Generic "Track" is something many suppliers provide to run "hobby" miniature trains on. It's primary function is to comply with the word "run" and rhyme with "fun". Model Railroad/Railway track is intended to be, as close as can be practical, a scale model of real track. As such it isn't necessarily going to be a "children of all ages"-proof, hobby fun item. So just handle and and lay it with the proper expectations. In the case of the US prototype, a scale spike head holding down the rail, reduced to HO scale is about 0.25mm wide, 0.4mm long and 0.2mm deep. If you want something close to that scale size AND cheaply moulded in plastic, you have to bear in mind that it isn't going to be very strong. And it better be laid on an extremely flat foundation. The various "model oriented" plastic products available are all compromises to achieve some common ground for the "fun" and "model" communities at a reasonable price. Building DIY actually scale model track may be a pain in the arse/ass, but for some the resultant model realism results are worth it. A few months of work followed by a dozen years of satisfaction can often be considered a very successful and pleasing outcome. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
highpeak Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 You might also consider the Central Valley line of products as an alternative http://www.cvmw.com/ Shipping the tie strips to the UK should not be too expensive, presume you could fine some suitable flat bottom rail for use with it? If you don't want to put all your trust in glue, you can either add some functional (overscale) spikes in strategic locations or add the occasional PCB tie. You can blend the PCB ties in quite well if you cut out the tie plates from a CV tie and rub them on a piece of sandpaper until they are only "wafer-thin, M'sieur". You will lose your fingerprints along the way, but that's life. You can also use the CV turnout ties as a Poor Man's turnout jig, described in the September 2011 edition of MRH by Joe Fugat http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/magazine/mrh-2011-09-sep/jig_built_turnouts I've used the Fugate method and been very pleased with it because the PCB ties add strength and a bit of adjustability during construction, the plastic parts are really just cosmetic. CV also makes some detailing parts, and a lot can be achieved with patience and pieces of plastic to replicate some of the special tie plates and rail anchors that are part of a real turnout. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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