Multiple identity account Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 Hey Guys,I've recently reached the half way point in one of my 3D modelling projects. Before I get anything printed and before dad can part with his hard earned money I'd like to get some feedback from you'll.How good is WSF for HO scale trains? I hear that WSF has a grainy texture. This means my intricately designed model will have to subjected to quite a bit of fine sanding before it actually looks smooth and presentable. I'm pretty sure that the sanding is going to destroy the fine detail.Has anyone here done models in HO scale using WSF? Or can I use another material? FUD and FD are indeed a possibility but the price may be a little steep for my budget. Another material I came across was "Metallic Plastic" that seems nice and looks grainy but heard it feels much smoother than WSF. Anyone with experience with MP?I've uploaded my file to i.materialise also for a quote and awaiting their response for a quote on the file in Prime grey.Cheers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marbelup Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 Hi Jeffery Your assessment of WSF is pretty much spot on. You can sand the surface smooth or use an automotive filler spray but both will damage or mask details. I have been getting pretty good results in Prime Grey in S scale (and some in HO) but you need to select the print orientation depending on the shape of your model especially if it has curved surfaces. Prime Gray is also pretty stable and unlikely to warp. It also takes paint well with little or no preparation compared to FUD which has a waxy support residue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 Hi Marbleup,Thanks for the reply, I was pretty much afraid of that. I don't want to lose the detail that I put many an hour into especially if it's done to the norms Shapeways and I.materialise requireto 3D print.Here are images below. You can see the level of detail. The finest surface detail is 0.3mm and the finest walls are 0.5mm where required whilst others are 1.0mm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marbelup Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 Hi Jeffery Be aware that the minimum surface detail for i.Materialise Prime Gray is 0.5 mm. Their web site wrongly showed 0.3 mm until it was corrected recently. The do have printers which will do 0.3 mm detail but they won't guarantee which printer will be used for a given job. I had to redesign several of my models last year as I had also started off with 0.3 mm details which worked initially until they used the coarser printer. The coarser printer uses a laser approx 0.4 mm dia. so vertical edges (as printed) will have a 0.2 mm radius (or 0.1 mm if they use the finer printer). Ironically, the "coarse" printer has thinner layers 0.1 mm vs. 0.125 mm, so stepping is less visible. Also, they will almost certainly grumble about wall thicknesses less than 1 mm. Parts print reliably down to 0.5 mm wall thickness but they may get broken during removal of the support structure. If you want to sell through their shop, they will insist on 1 mm wall thickness. If just for your own use, they may print your parts provided you take the risk of any breakage of parts less than 1 mm thick. Your diesel chassis looks quite similar to my WAGR R and RA chassis. (Search for Marbelup Models.) I haven't gone as far as including the seats and control stands. What mechanism are you using? I am using Hollywood Foundry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 Thank you so much Marbleup.I will surely have a look at your models (is it in Shapeways or I.materialise??I have a separate thread for my 3D work. Have a look there for all info. I plan on using the NWSL "Stanton" bogie drives. They seem to be good and very very affordable. Moreover they don't protrude into the cabin space like the HF ones. At half the price for roughly two I decided to go with these.Though the thought of a fully custom built chassis from HF does tease me I think the NWSL ones are great. David at NWSL has told me that Co-Co versions are being planned and by the looks of it it's perfect timing for me. So I think I will settle for that http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/92038-my-3d-modelling-efforts/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marbelup Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 Hi Jeffery I don't sell through i.Materialise. By website (blog) is at http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 I stumbled upon that. My God is it awesome..... I'm no where as close to you and I don't plan on selling but I will be following you closely as we do similar stuff.PS: Even if the i.materialise printer doesn't do 3mm can I still have them print it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marbelup Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 Hello Jeffery The model will still print but the small details may not. If the small details are just "cosmetic" the model will still be useable. I had some problems with fine louvres which didn't print and I had to settle for making the louvres a bit larger as it clearly looked wrong with no louvres. I kept some other fine details on my 3D model, even though they won't print, as better printers will be available in the future. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 Well then I will not modify it. My birthday has just gone and Christmas is coming so I will collect some money. I might go down the Shapeways' FUD route if needed. It may cost more but I'm sure of the end result. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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