Which superglue?

[ejstubbs]

I've had very mixed results with various brands of "superglue", from supermarket own brand stuff to some I got from a local locksmith which they described as "proper stuff".  Some brands hardly seem to stick anything to anything and would probably fall foul of the Trades Descriptions Act.  Others seem quite effective, but glue up the bottle stopper on first use and have to be thrown away, or else evaporate away even with the stopper firmly but removably in place.  It's all rather frustrating!

 

For stuff which theoretically should be fantastically useful (and which, so we're told, is used to glue to the wings on to airplanes!) it seems to be surprisingly tricky for ordinary mortals to source a decent product       which doesn't make an unreasonable mess around the joint.

 

Which brands do folks on here recommend?  And, while we're at it, what's the best way to apply it when gluing very small components?  Is it inevitable to end up with a tiny bit of overspill around the joint, that has to be painted over?

[BlackRat]

I use numerous types, from Toolstore to B&M with no problems.

 

I also use mire joint super glue and accelerator, works for me.

 

For small applications I use a pin held in a pin vice, or an unwravelled paper clip.

 

Put a spot of glue on a scrap piece of plastic or whatever ( usually the corner of my workbench!).

[hayfield]

I use Loctite super glue precision (runny) but apply it with a cocktail stick.

 

Heard good reports about the likes of Rocket etc but I have found that some do affect plastic chairs (C&L) making the plastic brittle

[BRealistic]

I use Rocket Max (thick) and Rocket Rapid (thinner) by Deluxe Materials. Got about a third left in each bottle... after about 2-3 years of use.

 

I do the same as BlackRat, dispensing a bit onto scrap paper and using a needle tool to apply it... always screwing the top back on between 'dispenses'.

 

Also, I store the bottles in the darkness of one of my 'modelling drawers', as sunlight/daylight will make it go off before you've had chance to finish it! On the odd occasion I do find the spouts get blocked, but my needle tool easily finds a way though!

[Bernard Lamb]

Try the Zap range.

Use the correct type for the job.

Make sure all parts are clean.

Apply a small drop on the end of a piece of wire, thickness of wire can be altered to suit.

Works for me.

Bernard

[Zero Gravitas]

And it will last much longer if you keep it in the fridge when you are not modelling (really, it keeps better in a cold - but not freezing - dark place). 

 

Just make sure nobody puts it on a sandwich....

 

Best Regards,

 

ZG.

[trisonic]

My experience with “superglues” is virtually identical with the OP.

I will do almost anything else rather than use it.

In my experience once the bottle has been open I can get one use out of it only. I’ve tried all the fancy and cheap brands and there seems no difference in them.

 

Sorry, Pete.

[ejstubbs]

I do the same as BlackRat, dispensing a bit onto scrap paper and using a needle tool to apply it

 

Pardon my ignorance, but what do you mean by a needle tool?  Google's hits seem to be manily to do with pottery or felting...

 

And it will last much longer if you keep it in the fridge when you are not modelling (really, it keeps better in a cold - but not freezing - dark place). 

 

Just make sure nobody puts it on a sandwich....

 

We have a separate fridge for drinks just by the door to the garage where my workbench lives so I'm sure a couple of wee bottles of superglue would live in there very happily.  Probably not much risk of anyone putting it on a sandwich, but perhaps a slight risk of someone drinking - or me trying to glue stuff with chilled vodka!  (Hmm, might work as poly cement - dreadful waste of good vodka, though...)

[PaulWarb]

Hi

 

I think I may have cracked this one - at least to my satisfaction!!   I have had the same problems - I must say I generally find superglues effective - but never had any problems with Loctite.  I can certainly relate to the waste issue - nozzles getting blocked, slitting the side to get the remaining glue, finding what is inside has all solidified - I guess most of us have been there!!!

 

Have a look for Loctite Superglue Mini Trio.   You get three small tubes on a card pack, so worst case scenario you lose less than a third of the total amount once you have done a job.  I don't know how cost effective this is - I guess if you are not wasting glue then this is an improvement.  I always tap the tube when I have finished a job to get glue out of the nozzle and vital to leave it standing vertically (nozzle / cap at the top).  I have come back to these small tubes several times and been able to use what is left without problems.

 

Hope this helps.    

 

 

 

[Graham Walters]

I use Roket super glue, seems to work OK for me.

 

Before I put the top back on I always give it a wipe with a damp sponge, this seems to stop the top and tip sticking together.

[jonny777]

Try the Zap range.

Use the correct type for the job.

Make sure all parts are clean.

Apply a small drop on the end of a piece of wire, thickness of wire can be altered to suit.

Works for me.

Bernard

 

 

Yes, I have had a 28g bottle of Slo-Zap for the last 2 years or so, and it is still working well despite having used 2/3rds of it now.

 

I like the thicker slow curing glues because parts to be joined can be adjusted for a few seconds, if they are not initially in exactly the right position.

 

Like others, I use a cocktail stick to apply the runny variety.

[brossard]

I have standardized on the Zap A Gap medium viscosity cyano (green label).  It works!  A piece of scrap wire or toothpick for application.  A couple of drops on a plastic baggie will stay viable for a long time.  I positively hate epoxy and only use it when all else fails. 

 

John

[BRealistic]

Pardon my ignorance, but what do you mean by a needle tool?  Google's hits seem to be manily to do with pottery or felting...

 

 

 

 

It's actually an entomologist's tool, ej... called a teasing or dissecting needle... just a needle fixed into the end of a wooden or plastic handle.  I find them soooo useful! 

[Talltim]

Kragle wins every time

[Silver Sidelines]

I use Wilkinson's own brand - in a small toothpaste type tube.  Once open I leave it in a safe place standing upright.  Seems to last OK and not a problem getting back into it,.

 

Yes as other have said, squeeze a drop out on to something scrap and then use a cocktail stick or small screw driver to make the joint.  The Wilkinsons brand seems to take a good few minutes to harden - so perhaps it looses marks there.

 

Ray

[John Tomlinson]

Having tried various brands over the years, some of which were hopeless, I would agree with Brossard above and go for Zap a Gap. It comes in at least three grades, and I'd also agree that the medium viscosity does most things.

 

Loctite is also a good brand and I've used this with success, I don't have experience with the Wilkinson's product but this would have a major advantage of being readily available in the High street.

 

John.

[bike2steam]

Another vote for Zap-A-Gap, but prefer 5 minute 'Z-Pacer Epoxy' when gluing brass or whitemetal to plastic.

[SM42]

I'm currently using a product made by Bison from my local independent DIY shed at 99p per 3g tube. .

 

The only problem is the nozzle is black rather than translucent. This means I can't see when the glue is about to emerge from the nozzle.  I've got used to this now

 

Still using a tube I opened around 12 months ago. Stored on the workbench between the paint tinlets / tools and rubbish to keep it upright.

 

Seems to be as  good as the more well known brands for what I use it for (attaching metal parts to plastic kits).

 

 

Andy

[michaelp]

Yes, I have had a 28g bottle of Slo-Zap for the last 2 years or so, and it is still working well despite having used 2/3rds of it now.

 

I like the thicker slow curing glues because parts to be joined can be adjusted for a few seconds, if they are not initially in exactly the right position.

 

Like others, I use a cocktail stick to apply the runny variety.

I too use the 'Zap' range along with a bottle of 'Grip' accelerator, seems to work fine for my needs.

 

Michael

[Pugsley]

The best stuff I've ever found is the runny 'No Nonsense' superglue from Screwfix.  It works well and is the only one I've had that hasn't set solid in the bottle after only using half of it.

[Grovenor]

After having lots of solidified bottles etc I tried this one from a show demo and have been more than happy, two years later and it still works perfectly, no clogging, no solidifying, its lived up to the advertising.

Powerbond 806

Google will offer cheaper sources.

Regards

Keith

[Catkins]

Ah superglue, or I should say Cyano-acrylate adhesive - I used to work for a company that manufactured "superglue".

The adhesive works by chemically welding the parts (or skin) together, the action generates fumes, use the adhesive in a well ventilated area. Also superglue will not bond to anything that is made from Nylon.

 

The first thing that I will say is Loctite is overpriced and over-rated.

Secondly, it comes in various different thicknesses -  the thinnest will set instantly and the thickest will allow time to work the joint.

Third point, when it comes to the application, the use of a small amount on the parts to be joined, applied by using a tool is the better way than to go straight from the container.

Whilst we are on the subject of the container, if you are using a bottle of glue, then tapping the bottom of the bottle on the work bench will help keep the nozzle clear.

 

Storage, keep it in a cool dry place, a fridge is great - I used to test adhesives that were three - four years old, and they had not lost any powers.

 

There are different types of adhesive - some have an additive that maintains flexibility (used on suspension and transmission 'Boots' for cars), some are 'Low-Odour' and will not leave white marks when they cure, the white marks are called bloom, and are produced when the fumes can not escape from the application area. If you are using a thick glue from a tube it is likely to be a gel, and as such very thick and will take a very long time to cure - some gels are 'tixotropic' that means the more you mix them the thinner they become, but once you stop mixing they begin to thicken up again. Any adhesive that you use on nuts and bolts, such as "Nutloc" is an anerobic adhesive, and it does not cure in air, unlike normal "superglues".

 

If you are looking to purchase a bottle of glue - firstly avoid any that have 'bloom' on the packaging, if you can find a clear bottle check the cap is secure, then turn it upside down and count how long it takes for the glue to run down the bottle, the higher the number equals the thicker the glue, the most versatile sort for modelling will take around four seconds to run down the bottle (I used to do a similar test using 3mm in a test tube).

 

Be aware of having water near the glue, the water will set the glue off - try it you will see what I mean - also if you do use the Mitre Jointing adhesive and accelerator make sure you keep the top on the glue when you are applying the accelerator, that sets the glue off as well, but it does work on uPVC if you are building a baseboard frame

 

If you do get the adhesive on yourself or something you didn't want to glue, you can use nail-varnish remover to lift the glue, especially if it has acetone as one of the ingredients.

 

I would never have any issues with a bottle of "Superglue" from my local street market or pound shop, I always look to see were the adhesive has been produced, but then again I do have previous experience in the industry.