Dieseldog Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 I would like some help with wiring a stud probe point control system but with LED's on the mimick panel to show which way the point is thrown, would one of you kind persons be able to sketch a wiring diagram of such a circuit and be so kind as to post it. I would like the system to have its own power supply and I have Hornby point motors ( the ones which go underneath the baseboards). Thank you to anyone who can help Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokebox Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 There are a number of ways to do what you want. One of the easiest is to attach a switch to the point motor so that the switch operates with the point motor. You can use the Peco PL-13 switch with the Hornby point motors. The switches are a good fit and just need gluing in place. These switches can be a bit unreliable and some people use micro switches instead. Have a look at the Brian Lambert website for more details. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAF96 Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 You can mount a PL-13 switch directly under a point, if say you want to use surface mount motors (yes I know you said u/bed motors but they can be mounted topside as well), by cropping off the mounting lugs that snap around a normal motor and gluing the switch dead centre to the underside of your point. Then use a trackpin through the tie bar into the switch boss. See attached pix. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAF96 Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 Bit by bit it seems as loading pictures from my gallery here is a tad impossible. This is the basic led wiring from a pl-13 switch. I use bi-clour red/geeen leds to show 'right of way/no way' This is how I fire my points but for pen and stud you put the pen lead instead of the CDU lead to my positive bus and you put your studs to each side of the point motor, else the diagram is common for any point selection method. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAF96 Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 This is my old points indicator panel - since superseded. Just scale it down and incorporate your probe & stubs where required. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dieseldog Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 Well there's some ideas for me to digest, many thanks for all your help, RM webbers have helped me yet again! Thank you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Steve14 Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 I got asked this very question the other day and found I had an image that makes it really easy to understand, or at least I hope it does. Image shows two motors and leds sets wired. More can be added easily. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 If you wire the LEDs as per the drawing above, do note that a PL13 contacts are not like the arrangement shown. The drawing is ideal but the connections onto the PL13 are not shown as they actually are on the real unit. Example... http://www.anticsonline.co.uk/767_1_1038688.html The PL13 has the common contact off set to one end and the two switched contacts are closer together and towards the opposite end. So the positive feed goes to the off set outer tag (not the middle as shown) and the two LEDs are connected to each of the closure together tags. It is shown on my web site here....LED indications - PL13.gif Note the major difference is the pair of LEDs share one resistor which is in the negative (Cathode) lead of the pair of LEDs as only one LED of the pair can ever be lit. Edit to add URL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 It looks like you are going to have a nightmare cats cradle of wiring doing it this way, the beauty of electric pencil is it's simplicity, if you want LEDS why not use DPDT switches or even rotary switches with one pole for points via a diode matrix and push button, and the other the LEDs, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dieseldog Posted December 6, 2014 Author Share Posted December 6, 2014 Firstly forgive me for any stupid questions, I am a newcomer to this. If I was to use dptp switches wouldn't the LED's only flash when the switch was made ( I'm presuming you mean the sprung to centre off ones) Are they called momentary, so they only have a quick burst to throw the point? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dieseldog Posted December 6, 2014 Author Share Posted December 6, 2014 If you wire the LEDs as per the drawing above, do note that a PL13 contacts are not like the arrangement shown. The drawing is ideal but the connections onto the PL13 are not shown as they actually are on the real unit. Example... http://www.anticsonline.co.uk/767_1_1038688.html The PL13 has the common contact off set to one end and the two switched contacts are closer together and towards the opposite end. So the positive feed goes to the off set outer tag (not the middle as shown) and the two LEDs are connected to each of the closure together tags. It is shown on my web site here....LED indications - PL13.gif Note the major difference is the pair of LEDs share one resistor which is in the negative (Cathode) lead of the pair of LEDs as only one LED of the pair can ever be lit. Thanks for the "heads up" I managed to get a copy of your book "the newcomers guide to model railways" really pleased with the content very informative. I couldn't however find the diagram you previously posted but once the penny had dropped and I knew what I was looking for and what to use (pl-13 switch) it all became a little clearer, many thanks for your help. Edit to add URL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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