Seep point motors fixed directly to peco points.

[BoD]

In my fiddle yard I intend to use Peco points operated by SEEP point motors. I chose these because I have used them before and because of their built in switch for frog polarity. Space is a bit of an issue so surface mounting peco motors isn't really an option.

 

This time though, appearance isn't important so I wondered, rather than mounting under baseboard, was it possible just to fix them somehow directly to the bottom of the point. This would save time aligning and setting up the motor as a simple rectangular hole could be cut out of the baseboard.

 

 

Is this feasible or am I just going to create problems for myself?

Has anyone already done this and, if so, any tips would be welcome.

[Unknown Warrior]

In my fiddle yard I intend to use Peco points operated by SEEP point motors. I chose these because I have used them before and because of their built in switch for frog polarity. Space is a bit of an issue so surface mounting peco motors isn't really an option.

This time though, appearance isn't important so I wondered, rather than mounting under baseboard, was it possible just to fix them somehow directly to the bottom of the point. This would save time aligning and setting up the motor as a simple rectangular hole could be cut out of the baseboard.

Is this feasible or am I just going to create problems for myself?

Has anyone already done this and, if so, any tips would be welcome.

Can't see that you would make things much easier for yourself. Lining get up the SEEPs does need a bit of care but is not that difficult once you get into the swing of it. I find the built in switch useful, especially with electro frog points.

[Bernard Lamb]

I would think that it would be possible to drill new holes in the base plate of the motors to align with the sleepers of the points.

I would not be confident of a self tapper holding in the Peco plastic so would suggest two nuts and bolts.

Bernard

[jinty55]

I have found attaching the point motor direct to the point works really well. I centralised the point blades with two pieces of thick card positioned between the rails and point blades. Then used thick super glue, carefully applied to the relevant sleepers, held with small clamps until set. I found this much easier than trying to position and hold with screws. It does mean you have to cut a large hole, like fitting the Peco motors, but it does mean you can remove the point and motor in one piece and I have found the direct mounting makes for a more positive point change as there is less slop in the motor control rod.

[stewartingram]

I've used SEEP with my code 75 Peco points. But - 1) I will NOT use the inbuilt switching due to its poor cheap design. I work in electronics so always use proper switches, in this case (cheap from Ebay) microswitches.

                                                                        And 2) they don't easily fit straight on to Peco points. So, having to incorporate the microswitch anyway, I build a sub-base from plastikard, mount the motor and switch on it, and screw that to the underside of the board. As I incorporate a copperclad tiebar, the operating pin is now at the end, makes it much easier to fit and adjust. I've always found that SEEP motors have to be alighned pretty accurately to get the best from them.

 I really will have to take some pics and post, I've mentioned this before but never got round to it yet.

 

Stewart

[ScRSG]

Agree totally re the switches, better to buy the motors without switches and use microswitches as suggested.

[roundhouse]

If you fit the SEEP solenoids directly to the turnout, if you need to fix a failed solenoid then it will be harder to remove then if it were fixed under the baseboard.