Removing numbers, ready for transfers.

[Guest]

Hello,

 

I have recently bought a sheet of Clear backed transfers, in the hope of re-numbering a few of my models. This will require me to remove the old numbers from the models, but I have no idea how I can do this. Any ideas?
 

The models in question are a Hornby M7, and a Hornby Q1.

 

All help is much appreciated.

 

Regards,
Matt

[Spitfire2865]

Turtlewax polishing compound. Takes a lot of work but removes it cleanly. Only issue is it removes the matt finish as well, but it would be resprayed anyway.

I ended up taking a cotton bud, cutting it in half, and putting it in a small electric drill. Saves quite a lot of rubbing but be careful about heat.

[cobach47]

First of all don't use any solvents . i use t-cut and cotton buds . you should be able to remove the transfer before the background colour is affected

it also polishes the paint so the decals will stick better remembering to wash off the t-cut first. a little trick i use is to take a piece of cereal packet to use as a mask

just cut out the outline of the cabside and spray varnish over the decal with games workshop "purity seal" varnish costs just under a tenner but i use it on all

my restoration projects one pass is normally enough so it lasts for ages. hope this has been useful   _  Ian Collins

[Guest]

First of all don't use any solvents . i use t-cut and cotton buds . you should be able to remove the transfer before the background colour is affected

it also polishes the paint so the decals will stick better remembering to wash off the t-cut first. a little trick i use is to take a piece of cereal packet to use as a mask

just cut out the outline of the cabside and spray varnish over the decal with games workshop "purity seal" varnish costs just under a tenner but i use it on all

my restoration projects one pass is normally enough so it lasts for ages. hope this has been useful   _  Ian Collins

Hello Ian,

 

For the varnish, would Humbrol's Acrylic based varnish do? As I have already got some of that, and I have found it works on a variety of items.

[TheWeatheringMan]

First of all don't use any solvents . i use t-cut and cotton buds . you should be able to remove the transfer before the background colour is affected

it also polishes the paint so the decals will stick better remembering to wash off the t-cut first. a little trick i use is to take a piece of cereal packet to use as a mask

just cut out the outline of the cabside and spray varnish over the decal with games workshop "purity seal" varnish costs just under a tenner but i use it on all

my restoration projects one pass is normally enough so it lasts for ages. hope this has been useful   _  Ian Collins

 

Hi,

 

Not all solvents need be avoided by any means.

Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA), Methylated Spirit (slower acting but will work) and nail varnish remover (Acetone based only not Acetone free formula) will all remove tampo printed graphics.

Dampen a cotton bud with fluid and rub numbers off model but dont dwell for too long or rub too hard.

Works ever time.

Never use a solvent such as white spirit or stronger.

Regards

[Butler Henderson]

No fluids neccessary, just rub on the digit(s) you want to remove with a cocktail stick or toothpick. After a while the number will start to break up and you can wipe it away.

[Guest]

No fluids neccessary, just rub on the digit(s) you want to remove with a cocktail stick or toothpick. After a whike the number will start to break p and you can wipe it away.

I was wondering if that was possible. Would also save me from doing to whole number, as I only need to change the last 2 digits in both cases.

[Nelson Jackson]

Here is a great page all about this topic of removing and adding new transfers, T-cut and the cocktail stick method as mentioned above are also present, quite a handy page to bookmark for future reference.

http://www.replicarailways.co.uk/transfers/transfer-application

[Guest]

Here is a great page all about this topic of removing and adding new transfers, T-cut and the cocktail stick method as mentioned above are also present, quite a handy page to bookmark for future reference.

http://www.replicarailways.co.uk/transfers/transfer-application

Duly bookmarked, thanks Nelson.

 

In order then...

 

Cocktail stick

Remove excess material.

Apply waterslide transfers.

Apply varnish (Humbrol Spray varnish)

 

Would that be okay?

[micklner]

I would recommend a Swan Morton No 10 blade which is curved, I would never use a pointed blade.Just "brush" the curve of the blade on the number to remove, always use a new blade.

I tried nail varnish remover once(no idea which type) It removed the number and darkened the garter Blue paint underneath as well not recommended.

[Enterprisingwestern]

I was wondering if that was possible. Would also save me from doing to whole number, as I only need to change the last 2 digits in both cases.

 

Great idea in theory, just make sure the replacement numbers are exactly the same font though.

 

Mike.

[royaloak]

No fluids necessary, just rub on the digit(s) you want to remove with a cocktail stick or toothpick. After a while the number will start to break p and you can wipe it away.

Similar to this, I use a a cocktail stick dipped in Tcut, it takes ages but you only rub the actual number and not the surrounding bodywork meaning much less chance of damaging the finish. 

I find using a cotton bud is much quicker but as it is much wider it is also much more likely to damage the surrounding finish.

[Guest]

Great idea in theory, just make sure the replacement numbers are exactly the same font though.

 

Mike.

My transfers sheet (Which I ordered yesterday) turned up today, and has exactly the same font as the M7's numbers.

[TheWeatheringMan]

Great idea in theory, just make sure the replacement numbers are exactly the same font though.

 

Mike.

Hi,

Why?

Plenty of small variations could often be observed between the digits on a loco.

By no means were all cabside numbers done with transfers and even the most skilled signwriters produced small variations.

Regards

[47164]

You can't beat t-cut and a cocktail stick with low tack masking under the existing decals and areas you don't wish to remove.

[malcolmt]

What is the North American equivalent to T-Cut? I'd like to replace the printed letters and numbers on my Dominion of Canada with stainless steel. Unfortunately the Hornby printing is larger than the Fox letters, so the printed letters have to go. A quick check of the Canadian Tire website suggests T-Cut is not available here.

 

Thanks,

 

Malcolm Turner

Calgary Canada

[royaloak]

What is the North American equivalent to T-Cut? 

 

Malcolm Turner

Calgary Canada

Any car paint restorer should do it or failing that you can try a metal polish, just be very careful and take your time, dont try to put too much pressure on as it will damage the paint on the model.

[Phil Mc]

I find most Bachmann numbers tend to come off with just a dry cocktail stick, angled so the point isn't on the bodywork!

Hornby numbers/names (and the more stubborn Bachmann ones) are usually dealt with using cotton buds and T-cut, changing the bud more often than you'd think necessary, tends to help prevent the underlying paint being removed !

Saying that, I've just got the numbers off a Bachmann 40 with my finger nail, and stripped a Hornby 60099 using a Number 15 curved scalpel blade and P2000 sand paper, so it pays to experiment and see what method suits you

 

Cheers,

Phil.

[landscapes]

You can't beat t-cut and a cocktail stick with low tack masking under the existing decals and areas you don't wish to remove.

Hi

 

This is also the way I have always removed existing numbers or tender totems.

 

It also works just a well by just using a cocktail stick on it's own it does take a little time to get going but it will remove any decals and does not do any damage to the surrounding areas as well.

 

I then apply a coat of Johnson's Klear before applying any new transfers, give them a good 24 hours to thoroughly dry then seal them with a second coat of Johnson's Klear.

 

Happy New Year

 

David

[Butler Henderson]

Given that a cocktail stick works fine on its own I am always bemused by people insisting on using t-cut as well, as that must increase the area being attacked by the very liquid nature of the product plus the unneccessary extra cost.

[47164]

Bh.. Yes good point, I have used t-cut to avoid any scratching so in effect acting as a lubricant and just to remove the print and avoid any touching up.

Has anyone any comments about Heljan finishes ? As I have only renumbered Bachmann locos so far.

[royaloak]

Given that a cocktail stick works fine on its own I am always bemused by people insisting on using t-cut as well, as that must increase the area being attacked by the very liquid nature of the product plus the unneccessary extra cost.

I have got the T-cut anyway (so no cost) and as its just a bit on the end of the cocktail stick it isnt covering any larger area than the cocktail stick would anyway.

[Timara]

A method I've rarely had much of a problem with is using MicroSol (by Microscale).  Lay the model absolutely flat, cover the area to be dealt with with a small pool of it and leave it for about 10-15 minutes; making a cuppa is possibly an idea!  It merely lifts the printing off the model and you wipe it clean off, as if it had never even been there.

[M.I.B]

Given that a cocktail stick works fine on its own I am always bemused by people insisting on using t-cut as well, as that must increase the area being attacked by the very liquid nature of the product plus the unneccessary extra cost.

 

The T Cut does very little without you applying the elbow grease, which can be finely applied to small regions but the use of a cocktail stick. 

I have also used a wooden coffee stirrer for this task.

 

T Cut will make the background area shiny, but if you use Testors Dullcote or other matt varnish once your new decals are on, it is tough to notice where the old logo was.

[M.I.B]

What is the North American equivalent to T-Cut? I'd like to replace the printed letters and numbers on my Dominion of Canada with stainless steel. Unfortunately the Hornby printing is larger than the Fox letters, so the printed letters have to go. A quick check of the Canadian Tire website suggests T-Cut is not available here.

 

Thanks,

 

Malcolm Turner

Calgary Canada

Try paint cutting compound at CT.  Just tell the guy on the auto paint counter that you need to cut/polish the faded paint on your car.  If you don't say faded paint you'll just be sold a generic car polish which is no good for removing decals.

 

Don't use metail polish such as Brasso.

 

Compounds similar to T Cut are available in Canada - I have used it on a friends car when blending in some repairs.