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Hand held controller thoughts wanted


PGC
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Sorry if this has been asked elsewhere - I couldn't find it if it has.

 

I am looking to buy a hand held controller for a small shunting layout. I want a controller that won't get hot to the touch so it can be used all day long at exhibitions, and it must have very good slow speed control.

 

So far I've seen that Gaugemaster do a few hand held controllers and I've also seen in another thread about Trax controllers. Apart from these makes, are there any other controllers available? If so, could you please enlighten me on what.

 

In addition, could those of you who have experience of the Gaugemaster controllers tell me your thoughts on which one to use and what they're like, and anyone who uses the Trax controllers, what are your thoughts?

 

Thanks in advance for all information given.

 

Phil

 

Edited - Sorry, I forgot to mention I'm DC only, Apologies for forgetfulness!

Edited by PGC
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Hi

I have used old AMR hand held (No longer available new) and Gaugemaster model W hand held controllers on my former exhibition layout. Both gave excellent service.

Morley also do HH controllers for use solely with their dc controllers, but as I'm now DCC I haven't had the opportunity now of trying them.

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I use a Gaugemaster handheld one (the Prodigy Express)  on my shunting layout which I find has really good slow speed control, especially at speed step 128. I've used mine at 2 two day exhibitions and 1 one day and I'e never noticed the controller becoming hot despite the use for going on nine hours straight of constant use. Other makes include NCE which I've really liked using as well. 

 

Any other questions just ask

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The prodigy is DCC!

 

 

If you don't mind importing a ready built one, or are capable of following a circuit diagram - I can highly recommend one of these - I have one and it is absolutely superb!

http://www3.sympatico.ca/kstapleton3/851.HTM

If you don't need it as a handheld go for one of the Bachmann train-set controllers [look on ebay]

Edited by shortliner
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I use a Gaugemaster one for my O gauge layout which has been exhibited a few times which has given excellent service. I can't remember how old it is now but it is a few years ago since I bought it. I had to shorten the cable recently as the edge of the casing had worn through the cable and was causing a break in one of the wires so just chopped it shorter and re-soldered.

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I use the Gaugemaster HH (feedback controller). It gives you very smooth and realistic start/stops. Much better than the Gaugemaster W controller. I feed it with 12 V AC instead of the recommended 16 V AC.

Then I get much better control in my opinion.

Here are two of my YouTube videos showing two older locos using the HH controller: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ZpugK59Rdo  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ncuQzX9wI4

 

(The 'layout' is just a temporary test setup on my living room table  :O  )

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I too have a Gaugemaster HH (the feedback) controller. Gives me nice creeping starts. Am really satisfied.

 

Only proviso: as Gaugemaster themselves say, this should not be used with coreless motors; I checked this with my simple oszilloscope which indeed showed me quite hefty voltage spikes.

 

  Armin

 

 

 

Edit: I too feed it with 12 volts.

Edited by CourthsVeil
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I recommend the Gaugemaster Combi handheld controller. I have used them at exhibitions for years and they are very reliable. In the unlikely event of a failure G'master will fix, USUALLY without charge.

 

steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

Many thanks for the people who have replied. I am now in the position to make a decision about which controller to buy, and the current choices are either the Trax controller handheld, the Gaugemaster HH or another controller that has just entered the arena, the Pictroller hand held. Does anyone have any comparative experience or thoughts?

 

Thanks

 

Phil

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I have used  a hand held with an On Track controller for years with no real  problems, the hand held contains just the centre off potentiometer and connects with just three wires, in my case using a big stereo jack plug and socket on the baseboard edge pointing downwards so it pulls out when I step on the wire.  The advantage is the hand held stays cool.

The Morley ises the same principle, both are variable voltage not pulse power and depending on the unit can give smooth starts and slow running, but with the proviso that the N gauge  OhTrack gives smooth starts and poor top speed on 00 while 00 unit gives good speed but is difficult to judge slow speeds due to a 150 degree sweep from stop to top speed.

The only problem has been stepping on the 3m long lead, sort of cured by not using the 4 pin Din Plugs but putting a Stereo Jack plug on the lead, actually  I built a very small hand held with a potentiometer and large knob I can use one handed which has a sterep jack plug at the hand held end which nworks well

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I use two Gaugemaster !00m controllers along with a model W hand-held and a Modelex hand-held. All are non feedback.

 

The 100m models are very good,

 

The W hand-held is also very good but does get quite warm. All these Gaugemaster controllers supply 1 amp and are ideal for my Hornby Dublo.

 

The Modelex is sold as a hand-held unit but for me it is perhaps a little large. However, it`s loco speed control is just as good or perhaps even better than the Gaugemasters, and it is worth noting that it gives out 1.5 amps, more than enough for double heading.

 

For very accurate slow speed control, it may be worth having a look at Parkside hand-held units. They have a switch able feedback system, either very low or full feedback. If you go on this link to their site you will find details towards the bottom of the page.

 

http://parksiderailways.co.uk/model_railway_supplies_33.html

 

Richard,

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I use two Gaugemaster !00m controllers along with a model W hand-held and a Modelex hand-held. All are non feedback.

 

The 100m models are very good,

 

The W hand-held is also very good but does get quite warm. All these Gaugemaster controllers supply 1 amp and are ideal for my Hornby Dublo.

 

The Modelex is sold as a hand-held unit but for me it is perhaps a little large. However, it`s loco speed control is just as good or perhaps even better than the Gaugemasters, and it is worth noting that it gives out 1.5 amps, more than enough for double heading.

 

For very accurate slow speed control, it may be worth having a look at Parkside hand-held units. They have a switch able feedback system, either very low or full feedback. If you go on this link to their site you will find details towards the bottom of the page.

 

http://parksiderailways.co.uk/model_railway_supplies_33.html

 

Richard,

 

Thanks for this, Richard. I have never heard of Parkside Electronics before - such is the power of RMWeb!

 

Phil

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  • 3 years later...
  • RMweb Premium

On Sheffield exchange I have a Gaugemaster Combie, a Gaugemaster W and a Gaugemaster HH. I also have one panel mounted feed back and two panel ordinary panel mounted controllers. All three hand held controllers meet my needs and have never had a problem with any of them.

 

I have had to replace the potentiometer on my feedback panel mount after 30 odd years of use. I was working for Gaugemaster, on the retail side, and asked the boss if I could buy one. He asked me if I wanted a discount. I said of course. I got a very good discount, a box of bits and "well you can make it".

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How about a DIY approach?

 

Check video 2 for some amazing running, no noise, no motor heating :)

 

 

Hi Mike,

 

I think that's an excellent way to go. I've been using closed-loop controllers for many years (come to think of it, it's coming up for 50 years.)

 

Andy

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Thanks Andy

 

 

I think you are right, my thoughts are that these units would build nicely into a H&M Duette body, could use the existing transformer thus you have 16VC and 12VDC to play with. New bridge rectifier and maybe use the existing knobs and fit the direction switch in one of the other slots and have LEDs in the other.

 

Do you build your own? Having watched the waveforms close, I am wondering if a small value capacitor might be good, just to filter, maybe 10-33uF?

 

Please note, contrary to the original circuit I have since discovered that a small filter capacitor needs to be fitted on the input supply.

A 33uF at 35 volt electrolytic has proved to be just the right balance between maintaining control and allowing Portascap type coreless motors to work without issue.

 

Please include this within the power supply output circuit.

Edited by mikesndbs
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