Turin 60 Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 I was considering some O scale tipper wagons that come in strong flexible white nylon, my experience with nylon in the past tells me it doesn't like paint or will the textured finish help. For priming and painting I generally use Halfords type spray for primer and our beloved Humbrol enamel for the rest. Your advise would be most welcome folks, or should I have posted this in the painting section mods? John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Don't try and rub down the nylon. Spray with Halford's filler primer (the yellow one) and sand the paint down until the nylon just shows. Repeat until you have a smooth surface. Personally I would use acrylic for the top coats, but I don't think it really matters what type of paint you use if the surface is properly filled and flattened. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Acrylic just soaks into it like blotting paper for the first couple of coats till it's 'sealed'. Bill's suggestion is a good one, especially if you want to remove the grainy finish. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWeatheringMan Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Acrylic just soaks into it like blotting paper for the first couple of coats till it's 'sealed'. Bill's suggestion is a good one, especially if you want to remove the grainy finish. Hi, Nylon is what is known as a 'self lubricating' plastic. These are the plastics that have a 'soapy' feel and include Nylon, Polythene and Polyethylene and PolyVinylChloride (PVC) - there are several others. The common factor is that the plastic is not normally glueable (ultrasonic welding is common.) and will not retain a paint coating reliably nomatter what preparation and priming are undertaken. During my time working as a paint chemist years ago I was involved in research to overcome this with self lubricating plastics. No worthwhile results could be found and the plastic industry chemists turned instead to improving the 'self colouring' of the said plastics with more reliable pigments. Self lubricating plastics are one of the less suitable materials for the production of model parts other than chassis components such as gears or bogie frames in the way Lima did using glass filled nylon for added mechanical strength. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Hi, Nylon is what is known as a 'self lubricating' plastic. These are the plastics that have a 'soapy' feel and include Nylon, Polythene and Polyethylene and PolyVinylChloride (PVC) - there are several others. The common factor is that the plastic is not normally glueable (ultrasonic welding is common.) and will not retain a paint coating reliably nomatter what preparation and priming are undertaken. During my time working as a paint chemist years ago I was involved in research to overcome this with self lubricating plastics. No worthwhile results could be found and the plastic industry chemists turned instead to improving the 'self colouring' of the said plastics with more reliable pigments. Self lubricating plastics are one of the less suitable materials for the production of model parts other than chassis components such as gears or bogie frames in the way Lima did using glass filled nylon for added mechanical strength. Regards Clearly you have never painted a 3D print. I'll video it next time, it's quite interesting to watch the paint bleed through it. My Shedplate keyring so painted has been on my keys for a month now and has yet to lose any paint, despite much jangling.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rue_d_etropal Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 I use matchpot emulsion paint on this plastic. It soaks in, and it is a lot cheaper to use than acrylic paint. It is a very different material to paint, basically throw away the instructions for painting plastics. I always start ith a grey , and then build up colours on top of this. Unless you want a model to look as it came out of the paint works, then it is going to get messy. As an aside, for normal plastic models I use a grey primer, then use what ever paints I have to hand including matchpots of emulsion. I have been told that the Halfords spray can grey acylic primer is the paint recommended by many wargaming modellers. Odd thing is that when I use this same spray can on the 3D printed plastic, it does not cover it so well, and applying too much just makes it take longer to dry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWeatheringMan Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Clearly you have never painted a 3D print. I'll video it next time, it's quite interesting to watch the paint bleed through it. My Shedplate keyring so painted has been on my keys for a month now and has yet to lose any paint, despite much jangling.... The material used for 3D printing is not standard nylon and the OP did not say anything to make one think differently - he stated 'flexible white nylon' and therefore my comment is perfectly correct. You are not refering to the same material as my comment was a reply to. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 The material used for 3D printing is not standard nylon and the OP did not say anything to make one think differently - he stated 'flexible white nylon' and therefore my comment is perfectly correct. You are not refering to the same material as my comment was a reply to. Apart from the fact that it's in the 3d printing forum........ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 ...and Strong and Flexible is the trade name that Shapeways uses for their sintered nylon. MDS here. Since the sintering process only heats the nylon material enough for the grains to stick together, the finished products are never fully dense. Paints and glues can adhere to the material because they can encapsulate the nylon grains on exposed surfaces. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rue_d_etropal Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 I have been told that it is possible to get a nylon plastic for small 3D printers . Now wondering how that comes out. There is a lot of negativity about the WSF plastic that Shapeways use, but if you design to its positive qualities then it is far better than other plastics. Buildings and other rough surfaced items actually look better. I use it for my track system, and it is easy to paint, and is very strong with some flexibility. That is very important when fitting rail. I had not realised that Strong and Flexible as a phrase was trade marked though. It is a very general term, wheras Frosted Ultra Detail is more specific. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marbelup Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 I have had no problems painting SLS Nylon (Polyamide) parts with both hobby enamels (Humbrol/Revell) and acrylics (Tamiya) applied by airbrush. I have not used any undercoat as I have not tried to hide the texture, the reason being the texture suits the prototype which are sheep. I have also use Alumide for sheep which has a more textured surface and is also heavier to add weight to the sheep-carrying wagons. See http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/02/sheep-load-for-cxb-and-sxt.html I have seen promising results using a "high-build" automotive primer spray to smooth out the surface on rollingstock models, but it also tends to obscure small details. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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