dahrenne Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Hi all, I've recently taken the plunge and converted my layout to DCC and I love it - its fantastic. Lots has been said on the internet about DCC points but I can't seem to find an answer to my issue. I use peco code 55 electrofrog points. They are unmodified and I find they work fine on DCC. The problem is the unreliablity of relying on the point bars. I understand the process of making a point 'DCC Friendly' however I do not use point motors. My layout is small so hand of God works fine for me. My question is- can I add a switch to change polarity without using point motors? Or will this create a short if I do not flick the switch at exactly the same time as changing the point? I would really appreciate any advice on this Many thanks Darren Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAF96 Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 You can use PL-13 point switches by cutting off the lugs that clip them to a solenoid motor, then glue them under a point using a Hornby trackpin as the link from the tie bar to the boss in the switch. Wire the switch to leds or frog switching, etc as takes your fancy. See here: This one uses a Hornby surface mounted point motor under DCC control but hand of dog is fine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RFS Posted January 23, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 23, 2015 If you're going to use a polarity switch then you need to have carried out the mods to the turnout that make the frog completely isolated electrically. Otherwise, the frog is being powered from two places - blade touching stock rail, and the switch. If they don't both change simultaneously, you will get a short circuit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dahrenne Posted January 23, 2015 Author Share Posted January 23, 2015 Thank you for your help :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ColinK Posted January 23, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 23, 2015 My layout is DCC and most of the points are hand operated by piano wire. I've done the recommended mods to the points. Frog polarity is controlled automatically by Hex Frog Juicers. It works well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oakydoke Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Frog Juicers are a handy solution, if the requisite mods to the points are carried out. Don't forget to isolate the adjacent leading rails to the frog. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelcliffe Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 My layout is DCC and most of the points are hand operated by piano wire. I've done the recommended mods to the points. Frog polarity is controlled automatically by Hex Frog Juicers. It works well. In the olden days(*), when people built their own turnouts from rail, and operated everything with push-rods, it was still necessary to switch the crossing (frog) polarity. It was done with a slide switch in line with the push-rods, or a lever operated micro-switch which is moved by the push-rods. A lever operated micro-switch costs £2 to £2.50 at Maplin's, and I've found them at 50p to 80p at a well known online electronics supplier. Such ancient technology still works today - there isn't any difference between a well-wired turnout on a layout with Analogue control and a well-wired turnout on a Digitally controlled layout. The microswitch is also a lot cheaper than the Frog Juicer (more than £60 and more than £10 per turnout), and the traditional solution is a better engineering design. (* and still done today by many people) - Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.