ThePurplePrimer Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Hi Guys I need a gauge to build my own track to 9mm gauge using Peco code 80 Il-4 flat bottom rail I couldn't find anyone with gauges ( in stock ) and after a suggestion that a 3 point gauge might be better than a roller gauge from another RMwebber I decided to see if I could make one Please note I know this is VERY ugly I had some 8ba brass screws whose slot was a tight push fit on the rail - it was so perfect I could hardly believe it I used a piece of peco track and snipped some sleepers out to fit copperclad so I could make a gauge to make my gauge if that makes sense Then I pushed the screws onto the rail - and then soldered 3 lengths of Peco code 100 rail to hold it all firmly in place and hopefully create a bit of a heatsink Anyway here it is - can anyone tell me why this is a bad idea and it won't work properly when I get to trying to making some pointwork ? Also what is the correct geometry for a 3 point gauge so you get sensible widening on curves ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 That's ingenious Rob. I can't answer your question but I can see one potential problem, and that from comparing it to my recently acquired 00-SF gauge from C&L (and there's a clue, I'm a newcomer to this track building lark, so I'm no expert). The C&L gauge has small (short) slots to hold the rail. Yours are, relatively, long. No problem for straight track, but I'm just wondering whether the length of those slots would prevent you getting a smooth curve i.e. would they form a flat on the curve. Simply filing back the screw heads to give a short slot would solve the problem (if a problem it is). Whatever, that's still a very neat idea. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 My brother made two of these for me, as he's a got a workshop with all the gear to make it easier. A piece of perspex with brass rod inserted, and carefully sawn slots. It's taken from the dimensions of the gauge on the right to give the same gauge widening. These are 4mm 28.08mm broad gauge. Being transparent makes it easy to see what you're doing, and I haven't yet managed to damage them with a soldering iron! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 If it works for you then great. I note the assumption that the Peco track is to the correct gauge in the first place. You may find 2 or 3 of these would be useful so you a have a couple more to make yet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium BR60103 Posted January 25, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 25, 2015 Rob: I have an old (bought in the 60s) Model Die Casting 3 point gauge for HO. The stats are: between the 2 knobs 11.4mm. knobs 4.05mm So center to center on the outer rail 15.4mm. And of course, track gauge 16.5mm. The bit inside that would do the flangeway is 1.45mm -- not sure how this compares to standards. I like how you did yours. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajt Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 Other than making the slots shorter as suggested above I cannot see why it won't work if it is strong enough not to fall apart or otherwise distort. At least you've thought about it and had a go rather than complaining you can't get what you need Regards, David. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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