drewn Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 First of all, this is probably in the wrong place but as a pretty poor card builder I need some advice.! When I build a structure, I cover the card (quite thick card, by the way) with pva glue and then attach the printed brick paper, However, when this dries, it invariably warps and looks lousy. How do I overcome this problem? Is it the pva glue that's the problem (OR IS IT ME -Paranoia!!) Drew Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 I use the glue sticks for attaching paper to card or wood. Pritt or other good make is better than the cheap Chinese rubbish, which I find goes hard and lacks 'stick'. I would suggest using wall paper practice and applying the glue to the brick paper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Radford Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 I've had this problem and have now changed to sticky labels - A4 size. (not printing a bit at a time on address labels!!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglian Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 You could try a spray adhesive such as 3M Photomount. The bond will be permanent and you have to ensure that everything is lined up perfectly as you can't reposition it. If you are gluing to flat surfaces before assembling the building, having bonded the brick paper to the card cover with a piece of protective paper and apply light pressure with a small roller. This or a dry mounting system will give the best finish but dry mounting systems are really beyond the scope of home building. Art shops will sell suitable small rollers or look on ebay. The one I have is about 40mm wide. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 25, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 25, 2015 For brick paper I score a vertical line on the front to get an edge. Turn the paper over and fold along this score. Apply the glue from the glue stick. Offer the card to the paper, ensuring the edge matches with the fold. Turn over the card & paper & smooth ( Chubber recommends using a wallpaper seam roller - it works a treat.) Turn over again and fix the folded strip to the back. Lightly score along each other edge, fold and stick. Extra glue on the card back helps. Place the wall under a few books to dry properly. Hope that helps Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
66C Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 First of all, this is probably in the wrong place but as a pretty poor card builder I need some advice.! When I build a structure, I cover the card (quite thick card, by the way) with pva glue and then attach the printed brick paper, However, when this dries, it invariably warps and looks lousy. How do I overcome this problem? Is it the pva glue that's the problem (OR IS IT ME -Paranoia!!) Drew Hi Drew Two suggestions frome experience: First of all do not use glazed card such as that sold for picture mounts - it does not absorb the glue as well as - unglazed grey board. I get it from Hobbycraft in large sheets and it is less than half the price of mounting board. I usually laminate two layers together with overlap joints at corners and allow each section to dry under weight for at least 24 hours. The result is vary stable and does not warp. This is the stuff that Allan Downes, the well know modelmaker, also uses. Secondly, decant some PVA into a glass jar such as an empty jam jar. Add a lttle water - about 20% by volume - and mix well. Apply using a glue brush or paint brush with heavy bristles - aim for an even thin coating on the card - do not apply to the paper! Line up your paper overlay on one edge and smooth down gently. Another thought - some commercially produced brickpaper can be a bit on the thin side - this makes it more difficult to apply. Better to print your own on decent copier paper. You could purchase from Scalescenes or print from this free source: http://www.paperbrick.co.uk/ Regards. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamsRadial Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 I have also found that gluing a thick and a thin pair of items together causes warping, the trick is to glue a second thin part to the reverse side of the thick card at the same time or soon after glueing the fist thin part. The final assembly then seems to not have any out-of-balance stress in it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeg Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 The problem is caused by an even number of layers, you need to have odd numbers the same as plywood to stop the warping, as 66C says glue two layers of this card and then the brick paper. I use pritt stick as it stops the paper from stretching and give a little movement if needed. I quite often use corrugated cardboard the thin packaging type as I find one layer can be used an does not warp, this is for my N gauge, for O gauge I use 3/4mm ply painted with acrilyc and then attach the brick paper, it sticks better with the paint if using Pritt, but can be PVA with 40% water applied to the ply and then stick the paper on. If using thin 2mm ply you need to put paper on both sides to stop warping. regards mike g Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 Head over to the card modelling section of the forum http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/forum/113-card-structure-modelling-forum/ and have a look there. Plenty of advice available. There are several 'Golden Rules' in card modelling, namely Never try to cut texture paper that is glue-damp with a blade. No matter how sharp, it will tear. Put the glue stick adhesive on the card when gluing larger areas like walls. Card won't stretch or tear when your 12"/1ft paws are holding it down and rubbing away at it. Also, if you are slow at it, you can re-moisten the glue with a little water on a piece of sponge'. I spit on my finger and rub it around a bit [Oh damn! That has probably upset people who now own my models...] To achieve a sharp crisp finish to a texture wrapped card model, the model must start out sharp and crisp. finally, I repeat... Never try to cut texture paper that is glue-damp with a blade!! Doug PS To stick small texture paper details to the outside of buildings [eg window sills an lintels etc] I stick the detail face down on the sticky edge of a post-tit note and apply the glue-stick across the whole of the back. This way ensures the little piece gets an even coating, It is then easily picked up with tweezers before the glue softens it enough to tear...Did I mention damp texture paper tears easily...? Oh, yes, I did. D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Kirk Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 Hi, From the stone age of Railway modelling. Have you considered shellacing the card. Card sheets coated both sides with shellac dissolved in methelated spirit (basically French polish) and allowed to dry was the material of choice before plastikard was invented. As well as buildings this was used for wagons, coaches and even locomotives. Some years ago when clearing the attic of the old family home I recovered elements of the model railway that I had abandoned there when I first left home in 1964. The score was: Airfix plastic buildings -still perfect (or as perfect as I had built them). Untreated card - mainly Builteezi warped or in some cases crumbling after being eaten by something. Treated shellac card and merco paper - still dimentionally stable and apart from dust etc. much as they were. Others have covered the problems with laminating any material. Treating inside and out in a similar way is a good rule of thumb. best wishes, Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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