Hotspurworks Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 I've had a Bachmann 2MT 2-6-0 for some time without actually running it. Unfortunately when I got around to trying it, the only thing I got was a gentle buzz! Now, the problem I have, and I sure it's not a new one, is, that despite following instructions and emailing Bachmann direct, I am unable to remove the chassis from the body. The front end moves but try as I may, the rear end will not. I don't want to use brute force so, it's over to you. Does anyone have any ideas how I might proceed? Jim aka Hotspurworks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 The body is a tight fit to the chassis. Are you working with the help of the service sheet which shows the fixing screws ( if not, see Bachmann's web-site) ? Are you running on analogue, and is the loco 'dcc on board' ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotspurworks Posted March 26, 2015 Author Share Posted March 26, 2015 The body is a tight fit to the chassis. Are you working with the help of the service sheet which shows the fixing screws ( if not, see Bachmann's web-site) ? Are you running on analogue, and is the loco 'dcc on board' ? Paul, thanks. Yes, I am working with he service sheet and, I am analogue plus, I haven't looked in the tender, the loco being exactly as bought. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike morley Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 I bought one of these a couple of years ago, dismantled it in order to convert it to EM and haven't done a thing with it since. Looking at what I've got and searching the memory banks for what I did to dismantle it suggests that the screw right at the very back end, under the cab floor, is easily overlooked and difficult to get at. Once that is removed it is a case of careful waggling Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 I've had a Bachmann 2MT 2-6-0 for some time without actually running it. Unfortunately when I got around to trying it, the only thing I got was a gentle buzz! Now, the problem I have, and I sure it's not a new one, is, that despite following instructions and emailing Bachmann direct, I am unable to remove the chassis from the body. The front end moves but try as I may, the rear end will not. I don't want to use brute force so, it's over to you. Does anyone have any ideas how I might proceed? Jim aka Hotspurworks This stumped me too on mine (The cab had come off on one side!). The screw to remove the rear is NOT the obvious one which is for the tender drawbar, just a little toward the front is another screw deep down in the chassis hidden by the little plastic thing that looks like a ray gun or some such. That needs to be carefully popped out to access the screw, once that's done you just have to fiddle with the sandpipes as the body comes up so they don't catch in the wheels/motion. Mine needs EM converting at some point, but it's way down the list after that little mare of a job! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotspurworks Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 This stumped me too on mine (The cab had come off on one side!). The screw to remove the rear is NOT the obvious one which is for the tender drawbar, just a little toward the front is another screw deep down in the chassis hidden by the little plastic thing that looks like a ray gun or some such. That needs to be carefully popped out to access the screw, once that's done you just have to fiddle with the sandpipes as the body comes up so they don't catch in the wheels/motion. Mine needs EM converting at some point, but it's way down the list after that little mare of a job! Thanks, I've now had a Eureka moment! If only the "buzzing" problem has been solved. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornbyandbf3fan Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 I'm probably wrong, but have you tired removing any fluff from around the wheels as that worked wonders for my 2mt not long a go? I used a pair of tweezers to get bits of cat air and static grass out Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotspurworks Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 I'm probably wrong, but have you tired removing any fluff from around the wheels as that worked wonders for my 2mt not long a go? I used a pair of tweezers to get bits of cat air and static grass out Thanks Will, it could have been the problem but I have never run the loco and it's hardly been out of the box. I now think there may be a problem within the DCC system so I've opened another post in that section. I know nothing and really don't want to know anything about DCC. Thanks again - keep modelling! Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotspurworks Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 I bought one of these a couple of years ago, dismantled it in order to convert it to EM and haven't done a thing with it since. Looking at what I've got and searching the memory banks for what I did to dismantle it suggests that the screw right at the very back end, under the cab floor, is easily overlooked and difficult to get at. Once that is removed it is a case of careful waggling Thanks Mike; body now removed. Hasn't solved the "buzz" so I'm asking a question within the DCC section. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnd Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 Have you picked it up at some point by holding the wheels, the reason I ask is it is easy to bend the coupling rods etc so the they can as you put it jam up the works. If so gently easy the offending parts apart so as to free them. Just a thought but easy to overlooked. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 Hi guys - I then add some oil down the gear area and add power slowly so the oil doesn't splash back.-. May I suggest that you don't put oil on gears, especially on nylon-plastic gears, but use grease with silicone (C&L) or Teflon (Tri-flow) added that's recommended for models. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 I've had a Bachmann 2MT 2-6-0 for some time without actually running it. Unfortunately when I got around to trying it, the only thing I got was a gentle buzz! Now, the problem I have, and I sure it's not a new one, is, that despite following instructions and emailing Bachmann direct, I am unable to remove the chassis from the body. The front end moves but try as I may, the rear end will not. I don't want to use brute force so, it's over to you. Does anyone have any ideas how I might proceed? Jim aka Hotspurworks I see you answered my question on the other thread, it's not 'on-board' as you have the blanking plate fixed in, so it's not that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotspurworks Posted March 28, 2015 Author Share Posted March 28, 2015 Hi guys I bought a 2mt 2-6-0 about a year ago and as my layout is not dcc the first thing I did was remove the blanking plug and socket and hardwired the motor direct to the pickups and I have to say it performed a lot better than with the dcc ready stuff in place. I now make it a top of the list task to do with any loco now after my 2mt experience because before I removed the socket and plug my loco just jumped and skipped along the line even after tweaking the pickups to make full wheel contact. As for the buzz, a recommendation based on my experience is to take the loco body off a try turning the worm gear by hand to see if the motor is jamming and if I find it is free from jamming I then add some oil down the gear area and add power slowly so the oil doesn't splash back. Anyway I hope that will help you find the problem because if the motor does jam then the only answer is a replacement but with any luck it shouldn't come to that I hope. Well, now that I've managed to remove the body I can see that the motor is free to turn as is the drive train. As such I'm going to proceed as you suggest and remove the dcc connections and hardwire to the pickups. Thanks for your help and suggection. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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