Cleaning Brass

[Stuart-AU]

HI..

 

Sorry if this is in the wrong spot.

 

Just picked up a loco kit of which most of the brass frets has some tarnish on them, what is the best way to clean them, remembering that I will have to solder them.

 

 

Thanks

Stuart in OZ

[LNWRNORM]

Hi Stuart,

 

I have always used a fibreglass pen, which takes off the tarnish a treat as well as lightly abraiding the surface ready for soldering.

 

Norman

[Edward Lawford Models]

HI..

 

Sorry if this is in the wrong spot.

 

Just picked up a loco kit of which most of the brass frets has some tarnish on them, what is the best way to clean them, remembering that I will have to solder them.

 

 

Thanks

Stuart in OZ

[Edward Lawford Models]

Dear Stuart in OZ,

 

Brass when first etched (in the process to produce the parts) is cleaned with acid, as time goes past the brass becomes tarnished. There are a few things you can do to ensure the brass looks clean before solders together.

 

Brass Brite is a chemical which will bring the brass back to factory finish providing you don't leave it in there for more than a few minutes.

 

Fiber glass pencil is another good method. If soldering construction just clean the areas you need to ensure a good clean joint. As the kit progresses the brass will naturally tarnish again, but once primes in etch primer this will give a good key for the paint.

 

If you intend to show your locomotive in bare metal finish then a fine abrasive cleaner on a tooth brush (Vim) is a good way to get that exhibiting look...

 

Best Regards

 

Edward Lawford

[Kenton]

Some old kits and perhaps some new (but old frets) kits come with a coating of some sort rather than a "tarnish" which needs to be removed.

 

If the etch is still flat - the simplest method is to use the finest grade wet and dry paper on a flat block. Using a glass fibre pen over the large expanse of kit is a waste of glass fibre pens and you will probably end up with shards all over the place - ouch!

 

Vim works well - as suggested but leaves some chemical surfactant residue that seems to be difficult to remove to prime later.

 

Viakal also works as does a borax solution - but be VERY careful with these as they will also blacken the surface if left too long - just dip and scrub with a brush and wash many times.

 

In the end I would probably just leave it until you remove each part - then clean it up with a glass fibre pen just as you would do anyway prior to soldering.

[52A]

I'm always concious not to over-do it with the glass fibre pen as it can wear away the surface detail of the brass.

[bertiedog]

A very safe brass cleaner for home use is acetic acid, brewers and chemists supply it in BPC grade powder, dissolved in hot water till no more is taken in. Use hand warm.

 

It is just very strong Vinegar, quite safe, citric acid can also by used in the same way, and makes a good low melt flux as well.

 

Viakal, ( loo lime remover), contains hydrocloric acid which works, but does attack brass if left too long.

 

The Vim mentioned works, the powder version does not leave traces, the liquid versions like SIF might, as it contains lanolin, it will not affect soldering, but it will affect painting.

 

Stephen.

[craigwelsh]

I'm always concious not to over-do it with the glass fibre pen as it can wear away the surface detail of the brass.

You'd have to do a lot of brushing to take out most detail, even on plastic/resin it can take a while.

[Andy C]

I always use "Shiny Sinks" with an old soft toothbrush it works very well for me, you just really need to rinse it well afterwards to make sure its all off.