Looks very impressive. I have one to make up at some point so your blog is of interest. Glad you like the Avonside Jig.

 

Robin

Excellent job, just shows how nice the stuff from Chris Gibbons at High Level is. Being able to drop the wheel sets out is essential in my view and it makes maintenance so much easier. David

Thanks guys!

How do you work out where to put the handrail knobs to support the CSBs, Andrew? The potential to get it wrong puts me off using them. I find it all terribly confusing, even though I (optimistically) did attend a lecture at Scaleforum a few years ago, but lost track of what was being said after only a few minutes, when it became apparent that I should have had a degree in physics.

How do you work out where to put the handrail knobs to support the CSBs, Andrew? The potential to get it wrong puts me off using them. I find it all terribly confusing, even though I (optimistically) did attend a lecture at Scaleforum a few years ago, but lost track of what was being said after only a few minutes, when it became apparent that I should have had a degree in physics.

Tim

I follow the examples on the CLAG website. Link here.

This gives you the measurements for a number of prototypes. Luckily the Pannier and Collett Goods are already on there.

As to the marking out, I use the excellent High Level jig. Website. Cant seem to link to the page, but it's under horn blocks and CSB jigs.

I don't understand the theoretical side of it either. At the risk of being a complete heretic, when I did my 42xx, i just had the fulcrums half way between the axles and added half again to the get the point either end. That works a treat (mind you the body is white metal). Kind of 'space it out a bit' really!

I think it's worth persevering with because the ride is noticeably better in P4 in my opinion. in OO and EM, I don't think it's necessary.