That's extremely well done, Andrew. It's very satisfying when it all comes together like that, isn't it?

If you can get one, I'd recommend a Kemilway chassis kit, should you plan to build a BR Standard Class 3 2-6-2T. The Walschaerts valve gear provided in that kit is still the best I've ever seen in 4mm scale.

That's extremely well done, Andrew. It's very satisfying when it all comes together like that, isn't it?

 

If you can get one, I'd recommend a Kemilway chassis kit, should you plan to build a BR Standard Class 3 2-6-2T. The Walschaerts valve gear provided in that kit is still the best I've ever seen in 4mm scale.

Thanks. Yes I have a Kemilway 3MT to do. It might make it further up the queue based on the 2MT!

Yes, congratulations on what looks like a very satisfactory set of valve gear. I'm glad to hear that it really did prove easier than you anticipated and that you are now raring to go at another example. It may be the angle of the photo, but it looks like a tweak of the return crank might be necessary to get it to tighten up at the correct angle. I find this to be one of the trickier aspects that I still don't get right every time [i over-did things on my BR Std 2 tank and so one of the cranks relies on cured Loctite to hold it just so].

 

I'm particularly looking forward to seeing further progress to complete the chassis and to see what improvements you make to the body, so I can steal your ideas! Haven't got on to that with mine, yet.

 

I agree that the Kemilway Walschaert's valve gear was extremely realistic and way ahead of other makes, at the time, although I suspect some of the more recent, top end, kits [brassmasters, Finney and, especially, Dave Bradwell - although none of them do prototypes that suit Cheddar!] are even better. It used multi layers to provide proper forked joints and I've seen a couple of built up examples of the 3MT 2-6-2 tank, in P4, which look excellent [most recently on "Sidmouth"]. However, if it is similar to their Standard Class 4, 2-6-0 and Bulleid light pacific chassis, it incorporated a very odd arrangement for the compensation by mounting the non-driven axles on a separate sort of bogie rather than using conventional axle boxes and horn guides. I found that, despite keeping running clearance to a minimum, it still allowed the leading axles to waggle back and forth, effectively altering the coupled wheel base. I attempted to eliminate this unwanted play by tying it all together with springy phosphor bronze strips, but it would be better to replace the whole arrangement with a conventional set up.

Best wishes for the layout and future loco projects,

Dave.

Thanks Dave. Your tip about the brass pins worked a treat. Yes, I think the return crank could do with a slight realignment. I set it up thinking it was right but further photographic evidence would suggest not. It's fixed with nut retainer so I'll weight up how bothered I am about it if it's going to cause potential damage realigning it.

I've been sold on CSB's for a long time now, so when I do the Kemilway 3MT (see above) I'll no doubt use this method too.

I do have a class 4 tank 2-6-4 in the cupboard. This was originally intended for Wheal Elizabeth which is now sold but it's one of my favourite classes of loco so I will have a play with it at some point. Maybe the next layout (after the next one, ahem...!)