Jump to content

hayfield

Members
  • Posts

    13,463
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by hayfield

  1. Mike There lies the issue, 7 listed but I bet there are more. Some are older standards which have been updated, but in the end its modellers who want something better who decide. Nothing wrong in this as shown by the DOGA having 2 standards which caters for both the main stream using RTR and those looking for something they think is better. Perfectly acceptable to allow those who wish for something they think is better. Its how the hobby develops
  2. Mike I remember the days when 2' radii points were commonly used and 3' radii were exotic. If you look at how the likes of Hornby Dublo/Triang/Peco achieved reliable running were compromises in both track and stock. But we were happy with both the stock and how it ran
  3. I think what you are saying about EM gauge is a bit unfair, simply as even in 00 gauge and some modern stock will show similar issues when sharp radii is used. But I agree 00 (universal) is far more forgiving as its roots are founded in the table top era where most of us started with 6' x 4' table top tail chasers But with EM gauge you are not restricted to large layouts, I am building a small cameo layout 4' x 1.5' (scenic) with turnouts under 1-5. Its designed for small tank locos, as of yet I have not tried long wheelbase vans, but I don't expect any trouble. My take on this thread is not who well 00 works, but have the standards kept up with what is being provided by the RTR retail trade offerings ? This is not a criticism of the gauge or standards, simply compatibility with modern RTR models
  4. I am not going to thake the thread off topic
  5. Quite ironic, I wonder what Galagars would wright about modern 00 gauge if a new report was instigated into 00 gauge standards, as used by the current group of manufacturing businesses ? Perhaps 00 gauge could learn some lessons on how EM gauge evolved, or perhaps it has !! Certainly the quality of the latest crop of models can only be applauded, as we have many outstanding scale models on offer RTR, sadly track/(wheel standards) as always is the Cinderella of the hobby
  6. I don't think so, please when quoting me do so in the context I was replying to I think what was in my reply was correct and why bring in very tight radii to the reply is wrong when the OP was quoting specific action with nothing in common with tight radii. my comment was promoting one of the two 00 gauge variants offered by British Finescale, which I believe was in line with his statement. Also the OP was alluring to track with better appearance Again you twisted what I wrote, EM gauge will work on turnout sizes similar to Peco's bullhead track, the OP quoted it might have been an option for him!! The problem I am hearing with modern RTR locos (unless I am mistaken) is their wheels are outside RP25/110. Certainly many of the most popular wagon kits which come with wheels, which use wheels designed for EM gauge compatibility. Modellers should be more aware of the relationship between wheel and track standards to maintain faultless performance.
  7. One of my pet peeves is how badly 00 gauge modellers are served by both the trade and societies with both gauges and guidance on building In fact I would go as far as saying most 00 gauge modellers fail to be offered even the most basic track building items This was my first track gauge supplied in a SMP kit in the 70's. Its 16.5 mm wide and is 1.25mm thick. So its a very crude track gauge and the only wing rail gauge I have ever come across in 00 gauge These are a pair of C&L 00 gauge roller gauges, but why do they have both a check and wing rail gauge included in a roller gauge ? But more importantly these were sold by the 2 previous owners (the new owner sells the correct 00 gauge with a 1.25mm gap) of C&L with 1mm check/flangeway gap and sold as an 00 gauge roller gauge. This gauge is to GOGA fine standards which requires the back to back of wheelsets to be widened, admittedly it matched the common crossings in their turnout kits (C&L now and for sometime use the correct common crossings with a 1.25 mm gap), if you know what you are doing you could make adjustments to allow trouble free use. But it simply illustrates the troubles the novice track builder faces Lets look at what the new EM or P4 track builder can expect with a basic range of gauges Top left and middle are 3 point gauges, which are required in EM & P4 gauges (not 00 gauge) for use on (tight) curves to gauge widen. Right is a wing rail gauge, bottom left roller gauges bottom middle a wing rail gauge With the exception of the 3 point gauges which are not required in 00 gauge, the other 3 gauges do help/make life easier in 00 gauge The Peco track gauge is supurb and you can see I have removed all but 2 of the wing/check rail gauges, the big lump of metal is a block gauge, the 2 brass gauges have flats milled from them, the left hand one for fitting over the common crossing, the right hand to miss, wing, check and switch rails, the left hand roller gauge has a flat filed on it to be used over the common crossing. All of these things can be done for 00 gauge gauges For EM & P4 gauges there is a block gauge with a a wing rail alignment guide, why is there not one for 00 gauge? Here you see that in 00 gauge I have roller gauges with out check & wing rail slots, a block gauge, check rail gauges and a wing rail gauge, along with the very useful Peco track gauge, these are the reasons people struggle building 00 gauge turnouts and crossings. The eagle eyed will have noticed the check rail gauges are those sold for 00SF, but its exactly the same for 00 universal/BRMSB as 00SF, I keep telling Phil to promote them as setting the check rail against the common crossing is more important than the standard 16.5 which can be + or - a couple of thou. Track building is easy, providing you have the correct tools. I am not saying that you need a bag full of tools to build track successfully, many have proved this wrong. But just a few extra ones would certainly make life easier and might well make all the difference C&L are reviewing their instructions, but nothing beats a well thought out set of detailed instructions, with plenty of descriptive photos Rant over !!!
  8. Johnster If you are going down this route and I do accept costs can quickly add up, is to look at what you really want from a better looking trackwork. The first thing is do you require physically better looking track, or better looking performance from your stock. Or a combination of the two Is it the geometry of the turnouts, un-prototypical bent timber at the heal of the turnout, and of equalised timbering rather than square on with the straight road that is the objective Are you looking for finer flangeways through the crossings ? Or perhaps is it the better performance of the stock through the crossings? Or a combination of all these things I do accept using RTR items is far easier and quicker and requires less skills, but there is a half way house. Wayne makes extremely easy to build turnouts in his British Finescale range, strangely enough mirrors Peco's entry into 00 gauge track back in the 50's/60's. If you can build an Airfix kit then you can build one of these (very) easy self assembly turnouts. On these pages it has been confirmed they are so easy to build .On the looks front in my opinion they are first class and there are two ranges in 00 gauge to chose from, financially they are 2/3rds the cost of RTR. A bonus is they are easier to curve to your chosen radii than modifying a RTR item, if your needs require. I understand that this may be a step further on, but if you are looking for appearances this may be a better and cheaper alternative. They also give you the alternative to stick with the BRMSB standards, or something which works better with both kit wheels and the finer RTR wheels now available
  9. Johnster I can accept your summing up and reasons for staying with the gauge However your reasons for staying with the gauge because "I can't model to that standard" with modern advances perhaps this is now not quite true RTR EM gauge track is readily available, RTR turnouts are now available, the range of drop in wheelsets is increasing every month. The average modeller in 4mm scale in 00 gauge in building a layout will make items far harder to build than swap over a set of wheels I do accept for most that the cost of moving gauge will be the barrier and or the time involved. But "its above my skill set" is diminishing quickly The biggest issue is the ever improving models the industry is providing, the buyer wants to buy even more true to scale/detailed models, they will not put up with the wheels that are designed to run on BRMSB track standards
  10. I think the simple answer you are looking for is better looks !! However this clearly shows making slight changes to the standards can have unplanned results Modern stock has much finer wheels than those available when the standards were set in stone, then you have the issue with modern kits using wheels that are made to be used in two (or more) differing gauges, example is when you buy a set of Gibson drivers they are clearly marked 00/EM. The plain truth is the wheel standards for EM gauge is different to 00 gauge, some makes of 00 gauge wagon and coach wheels again are made for both 00 & EM gauge. With EM gauge the track is designed for much finer wheels. 00 gauge requires wheels which are slightly coarser. The issue for track makers simply is in 00 gauge they need to be able to accept a wide verity of wheels mainly dictated by the date of manufacture, plus where kits are concerned finer scale wheels Simply modellers should understand the relationship between their track and wheelsets on their stock.
  11. Richard That is one thing I always do and for several reasons. Firstly it looks a lot neater, if its on the layout rather than in a fiddle yard I fill the gaps then sand the gaps flat More importantly I can check for short circuits which can save a lot of time, but also it allows testing as you go under power With a complex like this it may seem a bit of a fag doing this, but fault finding once the rails are in place can be very frustrating. But there is nothing wrong in what Geoff is doing and I guess nearly all make the electrical gaps after the rails are soldered in place
  12. These book sellers who seemingly advertise items they do not have should have some form of penalty imposed on them. I have just gone on to the link and you can still buy it !!!
  13. Geoff More importantly, how well is the crossing working ?
  14. Dave is a lovely chap and is the type who will always help if he can. Just a thought is this range owned by Dave or the one he sells for a friend ? I think it may be worthwhile doing a minimum run and if done correctly you could minimise the cost risk, I think Alan Gibson do runs once they have reached a certain number of interests in a kit, if castings are not involved I have an idea its about 5 sets of etches that make things viable. One idea is spreading the word on here, as if you get a group together showing an interest it will limit the risk On the other hand if etches are sold singerly on a well presented eBay lot you may be able to sell a few at a premium rate Both of these ideas may not make economic sense for a business but there are plenty of enthusiasts designing their own kits and making them available
  15. Jack It may or may not be of use, I see you added E5 to the list and SEF do an E5. I guess its a case of keeping an eye on eBay, or seeing if Dave is willing to have a few E6 etches made (might be worth having a few etched and resell the unwanted frets ? )
  16. I have heard that some dyes contain wax, not sure if this is the problem here but worth a warning, I use a spirit based dye, which I allow to dry out thoroughly before use
  17. Jim I have had several chats with Phil about gauges and the message is getting home, its no help for 7mm at the moment but he has taken what I have said on board. The 4 mm roller gauges have been revised, 00 having 1.25 mm flangeways (why they have flangeways anyway baffles me, as they get in the way and check rail gauges are far more accurate) more importantly the gauges allow the rail head to rotate in the slot. He sells 00SF gauges but for some reason fails to promote the check rail gauge for 00, he is looking at wing rail gauges The biggest issue is the cost and potential sales, a bit of a chicken and egg scenario, Phil is a bit more switched on with 7mm scale so I am surprised the range is not larger, as he is very friendly with Dave at Roxey Mouldings perhaps he does not want to step on Dave's toes and Dave runs a very good mail order service
  18. for the past 12 months I have been waiting for one of the budget supermarkets to reintroduce their 20v cordless strimmer to go with my cordless hedge trimmer, as I now have an allotment and we are required to cut our grass paths With nothing forthcoming I decided to solve the issue another way. I have a Black and Decker 18 volt drill and the battery stopped charging, it was cheaper to buy a second drill with 2 battery packs and a charger than buy a battery and charger separately. As it happens it was the charger that failed ,but as I was doing a lot of DIT it was useful to have 2 cordless drills and a spare battery. I looked on line and Black & Decker sell a 18 volt cordless strimmer, it sells for £50 without batteries and £80 with battery & charger. Some chap had been selling these stating they were new, I assumed they were returns. I won one for £32 + postage which said it came with a battery but no charger. It arrived with most of the parts still sealed up, and a charger as well as a battery, I now have a back up charger as well as an extra battery. I now have nice and tidy paths on my allotment and its so much easier to use at home not having a lead (and extension lead) trailing about ones feet
  19. Jim As you have said you have expert knowledge, I have seen far too many do something which they thought was right and found it to be wrong Phil Read who now owns C&L took over a range where previous owners had made a decision which was at odds with the standards. I must add that these issues have now been rectified Firstly they had roller gauges for 00 gauge (16.5) with 1mm flangeways, clearly these gauges were for GOGAF, a standard where stock wheels have to be re-gauged Secondly 00 gauge common crossings had 1mm wing rail gaps, OK you could fudge the check rails but with 3 way turnouts they require gauge narrowing in the centre road for trouble free running. Now Phil offers 2 options, either 1.25 flangeway gaps or 00SF gauges For a while I have been going on about not having check rail flanges on roller gauges, or at least only on one side. Plus make more of a effort in promoting check rail gauges and obtain wing rail gauges (flat bars of the correct width) These thoughts are the same for 7mm gauge, for the non-society member the choice of gauges is sparse. Plus I believe the onus is on the suppliers to supply simple data charts.
  20. John Thanks its very interesting, You could try using Templot for plans, and if you go to the Templot Club Forum there is always someone wishing to help. The GWR had small switches (we use them for 1-5 turnouts rather than A switches) Also you can set the V angles at a slightly different angle either by taking off a bit of metal with a file, or filling the gap with a bit of solder. The wing rails may need a bit of a tweak as well
  21. Rosspop A great bit of modelling, and nothing wrong using products from various companies, in fact I do that most of the time I myself would change the bent timber (0) for one long straight one. I do like your use of the copperclad pads, I assume they are glued to the timbers ?
  22. We are talking about hand built track, not modifying RTR. Its a lot easier to do it correctly without adding any additional processes. Usually people require both better running and looks
×
×
  • Create New...