Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by hayfield

  1. I think the simple answer you are looking for is better looks !! However this clearly shows making slight changes to the standards can have unplanned results Modern stock has much finer wheels than those available when the standards were set in stone, then you have the issue with modern kits using wheels that are made to be used in two (or more) differing gauges, example is when you buy a set of Gibson drivers they are clearly marked 00/EM. The plain truth is the wheel standards for EM gauge is different to 00 gauge, some makes of 00 gauge wagon and coach wheels again are made for both 00 & EM gauge. With EM gauge the track is designed for much finer wheels. 00 gauge requires wheels which are slightly coarser. The issue for track makers simply is in 00 gauge they need to be able to accept a wide verity of wheels mainly dictated by the date of manufacture, plus where kits are concerned finer scale wheels Simply modellers should understand the relationship between their track and wheelsets on their stock.
  2. Richard That is one thing I always do and for several reasons. Firstly it looks a lot neater, if its on the layout rather than in a fiddle yard I fill the gaps then sand the gaps flat More importantly I can check for short circuits which can save a lot of time, but also it allows testing as you go under power With a complex like this it may seem a bit of a fag doing this, but fault finding once the rails are in place can be very frustrating. But there is nothing wrong in what Geoff is doing and I guess nearly all make the electrical gaps after the rails are soldered in place
  3. These book sellers who seemingly advertise items they do not have should have some form of penalty imposed on them. I have just gone on to the link and you can still buy it !!!
  4. Geoff More importantly, how well is the crossing working ?
  5. Dave is a lovely chap and is the type who will always help if he can. Just a thought is this range owned by Dave or the one he sells for a friend ? I think it may be worthwhile doing a minimum run and if done correctly you could minimise the cost risk, I think Alan Gibson do runs once they have reached a certain number of interests in a kit, if castings are not involved I have an idea its about 5 sets of etches that make things viable. One idea is spreading the word on here, as if you get a group together showing an interest it will limit the risk On the other hand if etches are sold singerly on a well presented eBay lot you may be able to sell a few at a premium rate Both of these ideas may not make economic sense for a business but there are plenty of enthusiasts designing their own kits and making them available
  6. Jack It may or may not be of use, I see you added E5 to the list and SEF do an E5. I guess its a case of keeping an eye on eBay, or seeing if Dave is willing to have a few E6 etches made (might be worth having a few etched and resell the unwanted frets ? )
  7. I have heard that some dyes contain wax, not sure if this is the problem here but worth a warning, I use a spirit based dye, which I allow to dry out thoroughly before use
  8. Jim I have had several chats with Phil about gauges and the message is getting home, its no help for 7mm at the moment but he has taken what I have said on board. The 4 mm roller gauges have been revised, 00 having 1.25 mm flangeways (why they have flangeways anyway baffles me, as they get in the way and check rail gauges are far more accurate) more importantly the gauges allow the rail head to rotate in the slot. He sells 00SF gauges but for some reason fails to promote the check rail gauge for 00, he is looking at wing rail gauges The biggest issue is the cost and potential sales, a bit of a chicken and egg scenario, Phil is a bit more switched on with 7mm scale so I am surprised the range is not larger, as he is very friendly with Dave at Roxey Mouldings perhaps he does not want to step on Dave's toes and Dave runs a very good mail order service
  9. for the past 12 months I have been waiting for one of the budget supermarkets to reintroduce their 20v cordless strimmer to go with my cordless hedge trimmer, as I now have an allotment and we are required to cut our grass paths With nothing forthcoming I decided to solve the issue another way. I have a Black and Decker 18 volt drill and the battery stopped charging, it was cheaper to buy a second drill with 2 battery packs and a charger than buy a battery and charger separately. As it happens it was the charger that failed ,but as I was doing a lot of DIT it was useful to have 2 cordless drills and a spare battery. I looked on line and Black & Decker sell a 18 volt cordless strimmer, it sells for £50 without batteries and £80 with battery & charger. Some chap had been selling these stating they were new, I assumed they were returns. I won one for £32 + postage which said it came with a battery but no charger. It arrived with most of the parts still sealed up, and a charger as well as a battery, I now have a back up charger as well as an extra battery. I now have nice and tidy paths on my allotment and its so much easier to use at home not having a lead (and extension lead) trailing about ones feet
  10. Jim As you have said you have expert knowledge, I have seen far too many do something which they thought was right and found it to be wrong Phil Read who now owns C&L took over a range where previous owners had made a decision which was at odds with the standards. I must add that these issues have now been rectified Firstly they had roller gauges for 00 gauge (16.5) with 1mm flangeways, clearly these gauges were for GOGAF, a standard where stock wheels have to be re-gauged Secondly 00 gauge common crossings had 1mm wing rail gaps, OK you could fudge the check rails but with 3 way turnouts they require gauge narrowing in the centre road for trouble free running. Now Phil offers 2 options, either 1.25 flangeway gaps or 00SF gauges For a while I have been going on about not having check rail flanges on roller gauges, or at least only on one side. Plus make more of a effort in promoting check rail gauges and obtain wing rail gauges (flat bars of the correct width) These thoughts are the same for 7mm gauge, for the non-society member the choice of gauges is sparse. Plus I believe the onus is on the suppliers to supply simple data charts.
  11. John Thanks its very interesting, You could try using Templot for plans, and if you go to the Templot Club Forum there is always someone wishing to help. The GWR had small switches (we use them for 1-5 turnouts rather than A switches) Also you can set the V angles at a slightly different angle either by taking off a bit of metal with a file, or filling the gap with a bit of solder. The wing rails may need a bit of a tweak as well
  12. Rosspop A great bit of modelling, and nothing wrong using products from various companies, in fact I do that most of the time I myself would change the bent timber (0) for one long straight one. I do like your use of the copperclad pads, I assume they are glued to the timbers ?
  13. We are talking about hand built track, not modifying RTR. Its a lot easier to do it correctly without adding any additional processes. Usually people require both better running and looks
  14. As a track builder my biggest beef is the lack of additional track gauges, easy to get roller gauges, but check and wing rail gauges !! Also why do roller gauges have to have built in check gauges ? or at least one side without !!
  15. Jim Thank you for the input, my knowledge of 7mm scale gauges is quite limited. But at a previous club one of the members decided to use a 32mm gauge with finer tolerance crossings. As you would expect it resulted in a bit of a dogs dinner. Full marks for wanting better looking and performing crossings, but making up your own your own standards is fraught with danger.
  16. Geoff What a great attempt, and its a bit of jumping in at the deep end, as well as the common crossings you have also built 2 obtuse crossings!! One never has enough track gauges. As well as roller gauges, in 00 gauge wing rail gauges are very useful, they are a flat bar usually 2" long by 1/2" but 1.25mm thick (the older SMP kits came with flat ali bars, 16.5mm wide but the magic 1.25mm wide, rubbish track gauges but great wing rail gauges) these can be put against the Vee and the wing rail can be soldered in place. Whilst technically wrong, they can also be used to fit the check rails The only tip I can give you about a curved scissors is to start in the middle and work outwards, but curved obtuse crossings are notoriously difficult to build in 00 gauge owing to inertia wanting to make the wheels go through the gap rather than follow the curve. Don't ask how I found out !!
  17. Ian No problems, I don't mind anyone contributing to the thread and ask questions why I do certain things, many others may have the same thoughts and fail to ask why On the other hand I feel its important to dispel the myths that track building is very hard, simply its not I accept my basic version of a Vee is not quite right, on the other hand I feel its far more important to start using the correct chairs where they are available, far too many still use standard chairs in positions where they should not be and where there is an alternative There is a whole range of special chairs available from Exactoscale, C&L are also making a start on special chairs, L1 (bridge & J (joint) chairs are now available in 2 & 3 bolt versions, Phil is looking at a basic/simplified sprue(s) of basic special chairs for a turnout. The stumbling bloc is the cost of tools and demand. In my opinion too little encouragement is being made to educate modellers All publicity is good thank you for taking the time to bring up this topic
  18. Ian You are quite right, even the best modellers do make a few compromises, this is one I make as I rather concentrate on what I can see Firstly the nose should be blunt, not pointed, secondly in model terms there is not the weight mass to damage the rail, thirdly its not visible at normal viewing distances. If you wish to replicate it that's fine, but a sharper point on the vee is also non prototypical, I do know modellers who add parts that cannot be seen, and that's their choice. Many modellers claim track building is too difficult. Let's face it the most popular scale is not prototypical in gauge, but its accepted!!
  19. The past 3 days I have been slowly adding back the photo's that went missing, sorry for any mistakes that have crept in but I guess most will only occasionally look back I could not resist this one, this is one of Keyser's bodyline kits in this case fitting a Hornby Dublo R1 chassis. In my opinion excedening well built and painted Both body and chassis have been further detailed with Romford wheels and scale coupling rods added, a snip at £35 inc postage Short Term I will fit EM gauge axles and use axle washers to take out the added side play, I am hoping this will not foul the added detail (brake gear and sand pipes) Over time I may build a new etched chassis and add a can motor and gearbox Secondly Take it back to GNR livery as there was a GNR goods depot near, there must have been exchange working wround the docks
  20. As said it depends on how much you are going to use it, I bought a set very similar to this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273141390048?hash=item3f987edae0:g:pY0AAOSwA1paxDjY probably 10 years ago. Great for learning on especially if you are a newcomer. I could only get on with one of the airbrushes but it worked well for 6 or 7 years, probably to the abuse I gave it. I then bought an inexpensive replacement which I have looked after much better I did ask the company I bought the airbrush from if I should consider buying a better compressor, the reply was that I would have to spend quite a lot to buy something where I would notice the difference. I have been very pleased with the model I bought, there was a version with a tank for a little more
  21. What a pleasure it is for the site performance to be quick again. Well done
  22. A big thanks to all involved in getting the site back up and running
  23. I have just been so lucky in being able to buy an unbuilt Westward Double GWR Railcar (35 & 36). I have been trying to buy one for years but others have had much deeper pockets than mine (or I am just a skinflint) Well a couple of weeks ago I got one off eBay for £56 + postage. I was expecting to pay so much more, I put in a cheeky bid seconds before a more substantial one and won it with my first bid. The bid finished near midnight and the listing whilst not bad, it could have been better, I decided to take a bit of a flyer on this one, having said this all the main parts were visible. I got to know John Redrup and Chris Parish in the early 70's (if not the late 60's) but the cost of these Westward kits and the Lima chassis was out of my reach. I have even thought of how I could replicate one of these double units by kit bashing, but never picked up the courage. More importantly it keeps my memory of Chris alive I have decided not to use the Lima chassis, firstly as I will build this to EM gauge, secondly I have two Branchline motor bogies, which will be easy to re-gauge to EM gauge
  • Create New...