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Everything posted by hayfield

  1. Being a newbe to east Essex I tend to be aware of the high tide info, is it not 5m (15') I never realised it was that much before
  2. Wayne Nothing to apologise about at all, to me this thread is moving along the requests for" easy to build and better looking track", sadly there are a few around who just want to disrupt threads for the sake of it. Nothing wrong with constructive comments even if sometimes it falls into constructive criticism, that's how we can learn and move things forward. Well done for keeping your cool for so long One of the issues with 00 gauge is that there are so many variants from course scale to ultra fine scales, its a great pity the trade does not agree a common set of standards for new stock. I look forward to your new announcements and the thread getting back on track
  3. The wing rail chairs were left to set overnight I then used my DD Wheelwrights block gauge and crossing alignment aid (also available in EM gauge) which makes soldering up the wing rail easy, though a standard wing rail gauge would do fine, but remember to support the crossing as the vee is not held/stuck in place All soldered together, he copperclad strips will be trimmed to size once the turnout has been built The second wing rail is in place with the chairs stuck down and setting, I will solder the second wing rail tomorrow. The first switch rail is being fitted
  4. I have just bought a built but up painted Springside 14xx for £87 plus £5.90 postage. New these kits retail for £366 (I assume + postage) Its missing a few parts, hand rails, smoke box darts, water tank breathers, wheel balance weights and whistle. I have hand rail knobs and wire plus I think smoke box darts, I doubt is the other items will cost me more than £30 The chassis runs well but the wheels are very dirty, as it all needs taking apart for painting its not an issue The build quality is not the best you have seen, most can be sorted with a bit of filler (photos always make it worst) but what can you expect for £87
  5. One of the areas of track building many find challenging is building the common crossing, this is another variant which some may find a bit easier This is a P4 B6 turnout, I was watching a Youtuber make a start at building turnouts, what interested me is that he made the common crossing in situ rather than prefabricating it prior to the build The one difference in the build sequence I made was to substitute temporally two plastic timbers for wooden ones, whilst I solder up the common crossing, simply plastic does not like heat, In future I may try it with plastic timbers as did the Youtuber. A quick close up of the crossing area, I will post updates and how I fit the common crossings
  6. Can I just say very well done, you have grasped the nettle in that you have seemingly easily converted (or started) a straight turnout to a curved one, in turn both showing how versatile these kits are, and how easily they can be adapted. At last we are starting to have a track system on a par with the quality of modern RTR stock. Recently I have seen many quality layouts beautifully crafted, but sadly let down where track is concerned, hopefully soon when further items are made available we will see the quality of 00 gauge track improve.
  7. What's misleading in the pose ? One of the largest track manufacturers for years claimed their track was 00/H0 ? surely its one or the other ?
  8. Not your fault at all and I guess most 00 gauge modellers are in the dark about it. If Wayne called them 00 Finescale and made no mention of 00sf very few modellers would take any notice unless they had problems running their stock through, using common sense and code 100 rail for older stock. Lets face it they buy a modern loco for £200 and accepting it is a finescale model running on 00 gauge track, in general it will run better on 00sf than 00 (universal) simply because the wheels are finer
  9. And proved by many more that it actually works for more users than it was initially designed for. Martin has explained (at length) it was initially designed for those who used kit built rolling stock, which would not work smoothly on existing 00 standards, however those who used modern RTR found they could benefit from better performance and better looks, without any modifications to the wheelsets.
  10. Andy I believe you are correct for stand alone turnouts, however like many others building in 00SF where Gordon was building a complex of two or more turnouts and or crossings), the 00SF gauge would be maintained through the complex, then feathered out to match the flexirack it was joined to. But does it matter ?
  11. I will take a couple, I built it as is for K's, I intend to alter the running gear, firstly so it runs better, secondly to get some seating details There was a lorry version,
  12. Neil Its always nice to be able to recommend products that you have found to be of good use, perhaps a new thread of "what I have done with my Fair Priced Models kit" I have no connection with the business other than being a satisfied customer As you say it gives a really good head start, but calling it a scratch builders aid kit is a bit of an understatement
  13. I have one of the K's versions in 00 gauge, then found out it used the line to Hemel Hempstead (from Redbourne?) which ran past the bottom of my sisters old garden
  14. Andy In case you are not familiar with these controllers, these are very old (60's/70's) rheostat controllers, useful for the work bench, but the 16v ac is a power source for electronic controllers needing a 16v ac input
  15. Ben Thanks very much for the kind offer, temporally I found a couple in an odd box in the loft. Happy to buy them off you as spares John
  16. Andy I have 3 old H&M mains controllers, all have un controlled outputs on the sides, one side has a 12v DC the other has a 16v ac. Both are for powering accessories and use banana/wander plugs. The controlled 12 v dc outputs are screw terminals
  17. Using the 16V AC as a power source
  18. Tony Thank you If I can find the right one then as I have 3 mains units all with a 12 & 16 volt outputs I don't mind buying a dozen, did the units ever come with plugs ?
  19. I need to use the 16 volt supply from a H&M controller, are the plugs required called banana plugs please
  20. George I always look forward to your posts, lovely job going on. Thanks for sharing
  21. That's with a non updated kit, a better motor and gears will not only improve the loco more, buy probably remove the mechanism from the cab. But at a cost which may not be acceptable But what you have experienced is why so many love these models
  22. James Thanks Please do share them on this thread as it would be nice to see how they build up
  23. I think the deeper building looks better, I also found an old (broken) Airfix signal gantry, a cut down one in both length and height may be better. Or a single signal on the nearside and a two post junction one on the far side might be more balanced The curved viaduct opposite a straight road and building creates a crescent piece of wasteland, perhaps either an enclosed lever frame or a very small (platform style) signal box could fill up some space, how about a wooden trestle type structure, or just widen the viaduct ?
  24. Ozzyo We are talking about the same thing, the vee is the same for every gauge variant, example a 1-6 vee is exactly the same whether you are using 31.5mm, 32mm or 33mm gauge. However its the relation of wing, check and stock rails within the common crossing where the difference lies. 33mm gauge (Scale 7) will also have the same if not better affect with wheel drop, as the wing and check rail gaps are even finer than 0MF But in the end, yes it not only looks better but also performs better
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