hayfield

Jeff Whilst I have a lovely CDC 3D printed and painted LNER/GER J67 /S56, where I used a SEF J69 etched chassis instead of the Terrier RTR chassis 3D printing has come a long way BUT you question about whitemetal kits, These are my preference in loco building. Simply whilst both etched and resin/printed have their advantages and perhaps a composite build would be the best of all worlds, nothing can compare to the feeling of weight of a whitemetal loco At the moment I am finishing off a Springside Manning Wardle 0-4-0 ST. As far as the feeling of running a heavy model steam it leaves my Dapol Terrier and Ixon Hudswell Clarke standing in its wake. I have both a Springside and an etched GWR 45xx, both are fine locos but the Springside has something the etched one hasn't, weight. I will try and add some roofing lead to the etched 45xx, but whilst the etched body looks very good it does not reel and respond as well. Next up is to either build a Springside Collet Goods of finish the 45xx, probably the latter

The main thing is the enjoyment you receive in building it

I modifies the wiring and used a reamer to remove paint from the coupling and connecting rods, All ran well so I finished the cylinders and slide bars testing as I went. The chassis is now a nice runner. Rear crank pins still need cutting back Whilst waiting for glue to set I burnished the body, then fitted the chassis to check it all runs well, which it does The chassis needs brake gear and drain cocks adding Next up the body which is mainly detailing and the cab front. Though I have only 1 step and forgot to add it to the list of missing bits. I will wait till I have finished detailing incase I have missed something else. Plus I need an 0 gauge rolling road

Thanks for the tip(s)

New crank pins fitted, but not cut to length. I think it was a good job I did as the existing crank pin bushes were too thin. Running at medium to fast speed fine, but at very slow speeds a bit jerky. This may be down to pickup wires rubbing on the rear axle, or just needs to be run in I have a feeling as the chassis was part dissembled that there was an issue, certainly with the motor mount not firmly fixed and with at least half a mm slop with the crankpins I doubt if ir was a good runner. Still it now works well except for a very slow crawl The driver is held in place with double sided tape.

One mans tat is another's gold !!

I once brought a GWR 2-4-0T on the cheap (they used to fetch a pretty penny) simply because it had been dropped and broke in half, other than one broken buffer and the two footplate sides which had both broken in two, the rest of the unpainted loco was fine. Had the main parts been soldered (competently) I expect the only damage would have been the buffer, as it was a glue joint between the boiler and tank which gave way. It was quire a job to hold each broken footplate together whilst they were joined by soldering, so much harder than soldering the main components when building the loco. Still I got a loco cheap and had a no cost repair other than using items I had already There is some form of myth about how difficult soldering whitemetal is. Thanks to other members advice/tuition on here I have become used to doing it. Firstly you must have the right equipment, I started off with a 25 watt Antex iron with various tip shapes and sizes. But the breakthrough was not only using 80 degree solder but the correct flux (I used Carrs green but now use yellow flux). I now use a 75 watt temperature controlled solder station wound down to 300 degrees (again advice from here), I use larger size tips for large items and smaller tips for little jobs. Whilst building a Peco tram loco I got carried away and even successfully soldered small parts. The biggest tip I received was not to leave the iron on the joint too long, and put the solder on the joint in the flux, rather than on the iron. Its much better to go back a second or third time, than melt the part(s), and this was done with a standard Antex 25 watt iron at full blast I now have a de-solder gun/station (they are cheap as chips) I brought a badly built 7mm 48xx which I unsoldered using the hot air gun, Don't forget you can unsolder 80 degree solder in the steam of a kettle, I used this method a lot prior to getting the de-solder station I do use both 2 part epoxy and superglue, (but now steer clear of supermarket products) It is very encouraging to watch Mr Wright of this parish skillfully soldering whitemetal, excellent tutorial

I could not resist putting the body on, it works just about only because its driving on 1 pair of wheels. Now in desperate need for coupling rods

Striped down to wire up, I decided to use Milliput to hold the PCB strips either side of the motor. Then temporarily wire everything up As can be seen wiring done and somehow nothing is shorting out. I now know what needs altering and will be done when I remove the wheels to fit the crankpins Thankfully running well on a test piece of track, all be it the wrong way but that is easily resolved. Most importantly it works and all 4 sprung pickups receive power. One issue is the 32mm track gauge, I may opt to 0-MF (31.5mm) but am quite wary of this owing to the lack of side play on kit chassis

When I can its so much easier to buy a ready built model providing the build standard is as good if not better than you could build. As for a non-runner, if its a kit built loco unless its a clear design fault, it should be easy to repair. Depending on its purchase cost even buying a new power bogie/chassis could still be financially viable Given the change of DJH ownership/availability may be a good time to sell unwanted kits

I think the question is yes. I had a similar issue a few months after having a new meter running. Someone said the supplier could only go back 12 months. In my case it was about 3 months, but I did not want a big bill a few months ahead so reported it early and the agreed settlement was much less than I anticipated. I think they appreciated that I had persisted in getting the issue resolved quickly than take advantage and they reciprocated with a generous estimated amount

Well another move forward today from lunchtime, the postman arrived with packs from both Springside and Slaters. As far as Springside is concerned all the parts required for both kits required arrived, Whilst both not beings the cheapest things I have brought the value they add to both kits is immense (especially the Springside ones) and will make life so much easier in both cases. Certainly the Job lot owes me nothing, and I will end up with the Springside kits for very little money I thought I was coming to a natural break, but with todays deliveries I can carry on

Since the last post I have test fitted the chassis to the body The body fits well and I photo copied the instructions so I have a working set of instructions where I can cross out each section/paragraph, plus scribble notes. However I can now alter my plans as I have received packets from both Springside for the missing parts and new crankpins. Now no excuse for slacking. I must add I have received excellent service from both Springside Models and Slaters Plasticard.

This is a case of needing 3 or 4 hands to hold things in place whilst soldering as you need to depress the sprung pickup whilst holding the wire in place and solder at the same time All 4 wires attached View from the side These two boxes hold the parts which I either could not identify to a particular kit* or may belong to other kits or have nothing to do with loco kits. Once the two Springside kits have been built I will I will absorb those parts I wish to keep, and dispose of the others * For those not aware I brought a box of various incomplete kits of various scales in an eBay lot

I have sold off most of the loco kits, which all but one were incomplete, hopefully many have a project to get on with without breaking the bank. I only have about six 4mm scale locos left and will be offered again at low starting prices over the next few weeks. The pile of what to pass on is slowly getting smaller. I also need to decide what spares I need to keep, which may hasten disposa l I wrongly thought these parts were Springside, I now know they are not and these are the duplicate castings of the two Wagon and Carriage Works/ Oakville GWR 72xx &1361 locos or from other previous builds Certainly in the short term I need to keep these parts whilst I double check on whether any of these are still needed for the kits I am keeping, some may be useful for future use. But many would just hang around in the work room. (I do have another smallish packet of what seems excess small parts with my Springside locos) Should they be just melted down or put back into the market ? I guess some of the parts both have a value and would be of use to others. Some are easy to identify others for me not so. I have no need for a lump of whitemetal and would eventually like to pass on what I don't need The 7mm scale L&B coaches now have friends, namely a pair of brake 3rd (15, & 16) Slaters bogie coaches and an unknown make of Taw/Exe/Yeo whitemetal 2-6-2T Manning Wardle loco, the coaches are almost complete the loco missing a few castings and a chassis.

Now that's a great idea, I have a scrap bag on layout wire which is quite stiff. We usually throw away these softer wire flexes on unwanted/broken appliances. Great call, thanks

I have been interested in this post as we moved home 8 years ago. Initial plans were to remove the railway from the home into a purpose built shed outside. Security, heat and damp were my main concern and I received quotes for a purpose built shed. (We have a dedicated shed building company in the village). The cost in my opinion was quite high, especially when other costs were added in. At the same time we were planning a rear extension and the costs of enlarging the extension over the footprint of the proposed shed were explored. As it happens it was certainly no more expensive and at the same time we went the whole hog and remodeled the downstairs house layout. My work room is accessed off the family room and is part of the central heating layout. We ended up with a slightly bigger kitchen and my work room a couple of square meters smaller, but its dry, secure and warm and not accessed from the outside. Lastly can easily be converted into a snug/office or bedroom by those who come on after, or even a downstairs single bedroom if one of us cannot manage the stairs in the future.

doilum Thanks for your input and I can find nothing wrong with your posting I have found 3 of the existing plungers and have found a fourth of another make which I have turned down to fit, which mirrors the advice you have given Where can I buy this light multi core wire and what is it called please

CJI Thanks for your wise council and I do agree with you for 4mm scale locos, but I do have a couple of 7mm scale locos which work perfectly with them. Time will tell o my build

Its been a busy couple of days, but I have read the instructions a couple of times, but the builder seems to have flitted between the chassis and body The main structure of the body is sound, the speed of build will depend on the few bits I have ordered from Springside, but I will carry on until I cannot go any further, I have done a bit of filling and fitted the funnel I have also fitted the bottom of the boiler, the previous builder cut this slot in it ? still the boiler hardly visible so not an issue The main frames have been painted as have the coupling rods, I have ordered from Slaters new crankpins. Next up are the plunger pickups, the holders are in place. 2 were still fitted but only 1 was working, I have found the missing plungers and springs. Tomorrow hopefully the pickups will be working

Draining your battery? What's the standard tariff please

I would expect its the paint that is the issue, but in this case either superglue or use epoxy glue

The whole idea of Templot is for the operator to design the plan themselves, contrary to thoughts of some Templot is very easy to use these days. Usually if someone is assisting it is certainly helpful to exchange plans using the program, Most Templot club members will be more than happy to assist, but it usually this relies on exchanging "box files"* via email. * This is a system of easily transferring plans between 2 or more users, when the recipient clicks on the file it automatically both opens and prepopulates Templot. Sending a box file is nearly as easy I would say if you have not done it first, quickly have a look at the program and perhaps follow on of the tutorials, of watch the Bexhill West you tube https://www.google.com/search?sca_esv=f1fcaf6411aede3e&rlz=1C1CHBF_en-GBGB833GB833&q=Bexhill+west+Templot+episode&spell=1&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj_yPXg1M2EAxUoVkEAHaxxBR4QBSgAegQICBAC&biw=1904&bih=944&dpr=1#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:1d12fe61,vid:eagdegzAwv4,st:0 James is a very capable presenter and has a knack of making things simple

How often do you get peak prices?

Thanks very much for the offer but I think I need at least the middle one with the guide, as I need some form of stop so I can keep everything level