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Image restoration from pre-May 2021 continues and may take an indefinite period of time.


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Everything posted by JCL

  1. Morning all I've been working on something on and off for quite a while with @twiggyforest2 and @chris p bacon. It's an 00 gauge GNR L1 (LNER R1) 0-8-2T that was designed for suburban trains but was found to be unsuitable. It was subsequently sent up to Yorkshire on coal train duties. I'm tweaking a couple of things, but it's all but done now.
  2. Good point. It's only a problem if someone pirates commercial software or uses a free version of commercial software that excludes use for commercial purposes. I've not tried FreeCad, but a lot of people say it's v good. Personally I use and love Blender (also free for any purpose), but that one is a bit like marmite. Good luck with your plans!
  3. I'll let @chris p bacon know. I've been telling him about this.
  4. Nice lamps! I grabbed an Ender 3v2 last year, and I've been able to have a go with it over the last few weeks. I'm finding that filament printers are able to provide a lot more detail that I thought they would. I've been using eSun too, but its difficult to get a hold of here, so I've just bought some local Canadian filament instead. I've a feeling it might be a bit more of a challenge getting prints to stick too, so I'll probably have to use rafts and brims instead of skirts. That said, after using a resin printer, I'm finding that the filament printer is a lot more fun to use!
  5. Hi Mike, I agree with @Mikkel, every time I come back to your thread, you've pushed the boundaries of what your printer can do. Those surfaces are incredibly smooth!
  6. Nasty - the black screen happened to my laptop once as I was working outside on the deck. I'm a website designer, so you can imagine my panic. @drduncan, I did something similar with a greenhouse plant propagator heater, which I could wrap around the casing of the printer. Around this I had some solid foam insulation sheet with a removeable front. It was 'rustic' but meant I could use the shed to print if the shed's ambient temp stayed about 10C
  7. @woko, hi feller, I agree, by definition the resin printers will be better, but I think it depends on how much detail is acceptable and what you're looking to do.. The wagon is currently broken down into body sides and ends, roof, underframe, and brakes. The brake lever would need to also be separate as that's the thing that is creating the blobs on the photo above. New filament arrived today, so my light blue phase is finally over.
  8. I started off a variant of the wagon I showed above. This time I’m having a go at .1mm layer height with a .4mm nozzle. It’s 4h27m in, and has 2h40m to go. Also thought I’d Try the Cura supports, rather than doing my own.
  9. And here’s an interesting quote from Gerhard
  10. Hi Simon, they look like great results. One thing I do have it time, and my prints take about 50% longer on my profiles than they do on stock. That pedigree cattle body prints overnight. I’ve been on that German site for hours now. The man is a machine - and the quality is amazing. There is a lot of information on there, and while he’s obviously at the top of his game, hopefully I’ll be able to use some of what he’s doing. The first step is that I’ve sent off for some .2mm and .3mm nozzles and the CR Touch bed auto leveller. @PaulaDoesTrains, when using the finer nozzle, did you have to make many tweaks to the settings? For anyone that’s interested, using this link will translate the 75 page thread into English. https://www-stummiforum-de.translate.goog/t171433f180-M-glichkeiten-mit-einem-D-FDM-Drucker-W-rstchenleger.html?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=wapp cheers jason
  11. @monkeysarefun, would you like me to test print a bit of one of your walls?
  12. Hi there, haven’t got to bricks yet, but I can tell you I’ve been looking at wagons, and I’ve been able to print the planks individually without any change. Here’s a 4mm scale Great Northern pedigree bull van. If you look, you can see some layer lines, but not nearly as many as I thought, and for me, it passes the 3ft rule. It also bounces when you drop it . I was surprised the lamp hooks came out, and they are proud of the body. For ease of painting, I’m thinking of printing the clerestory at the top separately. it’s been undercoated, and given a brush of Vallejo Fire Red. The fruit can is an earlier one, I originally looked at @woko’s exceptional model, and then decided to do my own so I could change things to suit the printer. This time, after undercoating, it was given a coat of sandy brown before the fire red. I think the colour is a closer match to what I was looking for. I still have a few things to work out on this, but bear in mind nothing was sanded. I’m still working out printing the underframe. When I print this again, I won’t include the footboards and brake lever, and I’ll support the bottom better so it doesn’t warp slightly. In real life, at least for me, the warp isn’t too noticeable. Both models were printed with .12mm layer height. Thanks for the info Simon. I only have .4mm nozzles at the moment. What’s your experience working with .2mm rather than .4mm?
  13. Thanks Paula, I'll have a look this evening. update - I couldn't help myself and had a search through the videos
  14. Bit of a funny year, last year. I've hardly been on here at all, and when I have, it's been pretty much just a quick dip in and out from time to time. This is the first time I've looked at this thread for a long time, and had to do a search for it! On that, I've changed the name of this thread so I can start it up again. Now it'll be more of a .Jason's adventures in 3D printing' thread. Since I last wrote on here (or the blender for buildings thread, thanks for the message on there @monkeysarefun), I've bought an Ender 3 v2, and I've been getting to know it. To be honest, at the moment I'm enjoying printing without having to deal with resins and such. I've not done too much, but I'll start putting things on here as I try to get to the bottom of what it, and the Mono X, can and cannot do. And if anyone reads this and thinks there are better ways to do things, I'd be very happy to take on other people's thoughts and ideas.
  15. You're not kidding! I'm in Canada, was buying two bedside lamps from the States, and they added $700 to the 'free shipping', but it wasn't obvious until we received the email receipt. Cancelled the order, and won't use them again.
  16. Cheers Neil, and no worries about the photo! Once I've got a couple of things out the way, I might do some experimenting. I'm enjoying the Ender pretty much because I don't need to run a chemistry lab, which is how it feels when the Mono X is out!
  17. Hi Neil, was off the site most of last year. Those retaining walls look great! You say you printed it using an FDM printer, can you give us an up-close photo of them and let me know how you oriented them on your printer - and any other tips you might have. I bought an Ender 3v2 last year, and I've been getting to know it's capabilities. I'm doing pretty well printing rolling stock on it, but haven't tried any buildings yet.
  18. Hi Sean I don't know how complicated your chimneys are, or what scale you're using, but I know a lot of people use Tinkercad very successfully to make things like chimneys. Up from that is Blender, and somewhere in the 3D printing part of RMWeb I created some tutorials - I think one included bricks. I tend to create a 'wall' 1mm deep (I'm in 4mm scale), then create a brick that sits .2mm proud of that wall, and use the array option to create more of them. I create a second row and move it slightly along the row to get the staggering, and then pretty much go on from there. I know @Din is looking to start printing things in the not too distant future, so you'd have that covered if you don't have your own printer. J
  19. Hi Din @woko told me about your site a couple of weeks ago, but it's only now I've had the time to have a good look. It looks like just the thing that people are looking for. I've just signed up as an Invisioneer. I hope it all works out for you!
  20. I might be missing something, but for people who don't like to have their inboxes cluttered up by newsletters, why don't you just create a second free email address using Gmail or similar that can be used expressly for this purpose? Also useful for websites that require you to create an account to use their services. I've been doing this for almost the last 25 years (early adopter), and it works pretty well.
  21. I've an Ender 3 v2 that I'm enjoying messing with (partly because I don't want to get the resins out for the Mono X). There's a couple of known faults on it, but they're not difficult to sort out. Also, there's a busy and friendly group on Facebook. As other people have said, the main thing is to replace the springs and level your bed as most issues can be traced back to this. I've used it for a few things around the house, and I've just printed a 4mm wagon on it - the print was a lot better than I expected.
  22. That sounds great. You say it takes a few goes to generate the ideal look, but I bet it's a lot easier than doing it by hand!
  23. If you're on Windows 10 or 11, another option is to open 3d Builder (you may have to download it from the MS Store). Open the STL in 3D Builder, click on the tick mark above "Import Model" in the toolbar, Click on the 'repair' panel, bottom right. Click on the "hamburger menu" in the top left (three horizontal lines) Choose Save As and choose the STL format. I tend to add an f to the end of the file name so that I know it's kosher. This is a part of my workflow now. cheers Jason
  24. Certainly Mike, it's definitely down to personal preference and the type of information you have available.
  25. Hi Phil, There aren't many photos around (although I've probably for a treasure trove compared to Mike), but I've certainly not seen that one.
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