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Everything posted by ianLMS

  1. Here is a pic of the System 2 boards. Top connector blocks are wires coming in from the dcc occupancy detectors. Bottom blocks are going to the leds on the mimic panel.
  2. In the DCC questions topics page i asked about DCC occupancy detectors and feedback modules for hidden sidings and the need to have led's light up on my mimic panel when a loco enters the siding and when i need to stop it in the hidden sidings. I have tried infra-red but lighting levels and adjustments were very difficult to set up on all 6 roads due to the nature of hidden sidings etc. I have reversing cameras set up as well, but they arent clear enough to enable precise stopping of locos before they go too far and impact on merging roads. DCC feedback modules and occupancy detectors commonly found on the market (Roco, Lenz etc) are great if you use a PC or tablet and software to control the layout but they do not have the ability to light led's on a mimic panel. I prefer the tactile approach and still use a mimic panel and switches for point control. The answer came from a discussion with Dave from Megapoints at the Doncaster model railway show in February. I explained what i wanted, and he in return offered me the perfect solution. He was in the middle of developing the Megapoints System 2 boards for marketing after he built them for Pete Watermans layout dispayed in Chester cathedral. Even though they werent on the market yet, he told me what they could do for me and they fitted the bill perfectly. He provided me with 1 input and 1 output board (16 ch), 12 occupancy detectors and 12 blue led's and sent me basic instructions to suit my needs. The boards can do a lot more than just light led's and all will be revealed when he finally markets them. I installed them over the weekend and they work perfectly. I am sure they are expandable as well making them perfect for anyone looking for a similar solution. No links to Dave or his company just a very, very satisfied customer. Here is one of his videos explaining the work he is doing for Pete Watermans layout. Ian
  3. It was possibly Ian Rathbone on the Right Track 3 dvd. He painted lines onto paper then peeled them off and transferred them to the loco for the boiler linings. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224765709712?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=2w7lNT9GS8i&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=h-I8RE2kQg-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Ian
  4. The Alclad Aqua-Klear are clear products and I use the matt one to protect the paint/transfers before applying weathering powders and washes etc.
  5. With the help of Dave Fenton of Megapoints, i now have exactly what i was looking for and it works perfectly. When visiting the BRM show at Doncaster in February, i approached Dave seeking his advice and to see if his Megapoints system would work in my scenario. At the time, the current Megapoints system wouldnt do the job but he was in the process of developing his System 2 boards which he designed for Pete Watermans layout built for the Chester Cathedral. Even though they werent on the market yet, he sold me a System 2 input and output board, 12 occupancy detectors and some LEDs. I fitted them last week and they work perfectly!!! Total cost was around £150 so not cheap but it is exactly what i wanted and the boards can do so much more if u need them to. Check out his videos on you-tube. One very satisfied customer!!!!
  6. I use Alclad II products through my airbrush and have had success with their Aqua-Klear products. They also do primers which I haven't tried yet but plan to as it is much more controllable than rattle can primers. Test on a scrap piece before using on an expensive model mind in case it reacts. I haven't had any issues with my self-painted kit loco's but you never know. https://alclad2.com/
  7. Build a heritage railway layout as already mentioned. Stock at preserved railways is so varied you can get away with anything! Failing that, as in my case, i just put them in a display cabinet and admire my handy work and empty wallet!! I have around 30 locos, 20 coaches and triple that in wagons. Most i have built myself so not worth selling on anyway. I only have 6 storage roads on the layout so will never be able to run them all until i retire or win the lottery and build a huge layout!
  8. No, but Wizard models do white metal parts for under LMS coaches. Once painted im not sure you would know the difference, and they help add a tiny bit of weight!!
  9. Wizard models do a wagon detailing etch which may have something suitable. https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/wagons/mt166/ Or Dart castings may have something. https://www.dartcastings.co.uk/mjt.php#WagonComponents-Buffers Ian
  10. No, but i have used WS realistic water and it worked very well. They have dyes which will help colour the water and they have water effects to create the white you need.
  11. Kitchen roll, toilet roll, newspaper, blue paper towel all soaked in pva does the trick.
  12. Here is the comet guide. Readily available on Wizard models website. Might help with the basics for other brass or WM models. Building Coaches the Comet Way.pdf
  13. The folks on RMWeb really helped me put together a Sheffield Suburban set from the Ratio kits. Couldnt have done it without them!!
  14. Great to see Severn at the show today still going strong. Didnt need anything this time around but will be needing stuff in the future. Hope u had a profitable day!! Ian
  15. A quick look on Google brings up several suppliers of different gauge etched brass mesh so may not be too difficult to something to match what you are looking for. Tescos now sell plastic mesh bags for their loose veg. 30p i believe but it might be knitted too close for what u need. Some tea bags are also using a plastic fine mesh. Super glue is the glue of choice. Thin variety applied with a peice of fine wire. You could drill a .4mm hole and fix the mesh with .33 nickel silver or brass wire as extra security.
  16. Mr Tony Wright covers this on one of the Right Track dvds. No 2 i think. The one covering building. Might also be available on you tube.
  17. Thats the problem. I am one of those that has all the gear, but no idea!!! I have a very expensive Avonside chassis jig plus the cheaper type and still struggle!! A Missenden weekend is in order i think!!!
  18. Even with the brass kit i had to cut away the bottom of the boiler, raise the firebox and fettle with everything. Its been a fun exercise though!! What i really need to do is get better at building the kit chassis!!!!
  19. For whatever reason, i struggle to build a reliably smooth running chassis with DCC. So, i thought i would use later RTR chassis and just build kit bodies. Simples i thought!! Its been done for years so cant be that difficult!! Not so!!! Like cars over the last 10-15 years, manufacturers have started to utilize every sqaure mm of space for their chassis and motors presumably to maximize weight loading. The plastic body fits snug and no room left for much else. My first effort was a Jubilee utilizing spare parts from white metal kits designed years a go for non-dcc chassis and a Bachmann dcc ready chassis. When fitting a kit body on the older chassis, the space was designed accordingly and relatively generous and wasnt an issue. The motor however would often stick out into the cab. When fitting on a dcc ready chassis, the clearances are much tighter and the thickness of the white metal kit is much thicker than the plastic affecting how it fitted and especially the height. The main issue is the firebox over the motor resulting in a higher footplate. I finished the model but it is about 1mm too high. Not too noticeable mind. For my second attempt, i am using a brass Jamieson kit for the body and a Hornby dcc ready chassis. The thin brass allows the body to fit easier, however, the firebox was too small compared to the drawings i have. I extended the height to fit over the motor and its now the correct dimensions. Here it is so far.
  20. Thanks for that Andrew. Still contemplating what operating method i really want and if i want to go deeper into the world of dcc or stay a little more old school!
  21. Yoy could upscale this to 7mm to give u a template and replace the card with laser cut mdf components? Might need to soak the wood to form the curves. Seen it done on you-tube!! https://energeer.co.uk/scale-models/cooling-tower-model/
  22. The rivets are probably pressed together off the model rather than hammered. A vice or flat pliers should do the trick. Failing that, Perers Spares sell complete motion gear sets. Ian
  23. I picked up some of this at a show and it worked well. https://www.maketis.com/en/29_anita-decor Failing that, polifilla with pva mixed in would do the same.
  24. For my brass locos i use Humbrol masking liquid applied with a cocktail stick to protect the inside of the bearings and other areas i dont want painting, then apply a coat of Halfords aerosol etching primer. Then a coat of matt black. The main point it to ensure the brass is super clean before painting. Blackening fluids isnt permanent and is easily removed.
  25. Thank you Nigel. Really appreciate the response and it definately gives me plenty to think about. Happy New Year everyone!!!!
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