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Image restoration from pre-May 2021 continues and may take an indefinite period of time.


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Everything posted by Down_Under

  1. Need to fit a crossover in but run out space, well there is always interlaced point work to help you out Liverpool Docks
  2. That C.14 chassis looks good Mike. Captured the size of the axle boxes well with those etches and the cranks look good too. Put me done for a couple of those chassis. James
  3. Good Evening / Morning All, It was is probably quite a familiar story I have inherited a Unimat 3 Lathe, amongst a few other things and haven't used one in anger since metal work in design tech in high school (20+ years ago). It appears to have had very little use and comes with some cutting tools (i;ve since found an article on how to identify), steady post and a couple of dead centres. I've been on the scalefour forum and found some of Ted's articles on simple lathe work and there are numerous references for getting going on here I've found. I has after a little advise on: - Servicing and cleaning - the belts look a little perished and threads are a little stiff / dusty. Would a strip down and lube be recommend? Bearing in mind, my aims are to turn up bearings, re-profile wheels, axles, cut some small threads (4mm scale in EM and P4), what I can gather the most useful additional components would be: - Collet set (ER16? ER 25? Watch makers?) - Tapered slide - Wheel profile tool (P4/EM). - Live centre? - Tool wise, I am a little lost - is there a go to set of tools that I should have? Any other recommendations for *must have* tools / parts? On the milling side it is missing a few items - mill table, machine vice, fine feed control and all the cutting tools. I would put this into the 'down the track' box of things to get working source. Looking forward to having a go. Thanks in advance. James
  4. Thankyou for those pictures Mike. They will help a lot with construction. I had not realized how much they varied from unit to unit.
  5. Fantastic News a vote for a green and a blue High Dyke version please D5672 - David F Photo https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_11_2009/post-5613-12571065384558_thumb.jpg and D5671 - David F Photo https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_11_2009/post-5613-1257106590609.jpg Any indication of how long to wait for the High Dyke locos...?
  6. That is a "Avonside Chassis2" jig. For me, I'd be lost without it.
  7. Talking of the "Fell" - here is one of Mikes etches that I'm CSB'ing High level Slimline 2mm hornblocks, Lanarkshire Models CSB pivots. The CSB points where worked out using a CLAg excel sheet. I then transposed this points onto a scan of the drawings in Inkscape to make sure they did not interfere with the various spacers. Only one require some slots cutting for the CSB tags to have some upwards movement in them. Final product. Now need to install gearbox, outside frames etc. This was a Ebay find, that had a poorly built chassis that I striped down, cleaned up and started from scratch. The body has been stripped, as the detail etches had been glued on and the front cowlings poorly attached. Very enjoyable thus far.
  8. Hey @RThompson any update on the dump cars or where they sit in the project queue? cheers james
  9. As promised here are some pictures of the 90-1 and 56-1 gearboxes 90-1 has a worm drive and a milled brass gearbox casing. All shafts 1mm. 56-1 all pinion gears. 1mm shafts. The double gears come as individual gears that you press together (they sell these seperately). Interference fit. The larger tooth gears (20-30t) can all be reamed to take a 2mm axle. I'll use the 56-1 to test for a motor bogie. I will use some exactoscale parallel bushes to sleeve the 1mm axles as I will be using this gearbox as the test mule. I'm thinking custom box perhaps without the massive ratio so that the shaft will be bushed to take a 2mm axle. J
  10. The website in posted the link has some good gears. I’ll post some pics shortly of the gearboxes I got. Axle hung gears 100% possible from 14-90 to 1 ratio. J
  11. Mine turned up this AM, perfect day to sit on the veranda, listen to the kookaburras (the laughing kind) with a coffee and have a read
  12. Thanks for the reply. Thanks for the tips. Will give it a go. J
  13. A question > how many times can you keep annealing / bending brass? If i have a piece of work that has been bent wrong, can I anneal it, roll it flat and start again? I've picked up a kit and a curve has been poorly formed and I was hoping that I could heat, flatten, heat and then re-roll to the correct profile?
  14. Wanted pair of Alan Gibson F4/F5 milled frames
  15. Bring this back on topic-ish: I kinda like the rebuilt W1 in photographic grey. Looks quite smart. Torn between putting in a preorder for version or in LNER garter blue. Was there a point in time where all the streamlined designed (A4, P2, W1) all carried blue (P2 in green) Or is the only time after the valance were removed and thus BR Green is appropriate? J
  16. Wanted - pair or 00/EM 16 spoke Sharman 5’6” wheels as shown below if you have a pair, keen to purchase
  17. Well mine arrived last Friday, all the way down under. No broken bits to report. first impression - imposing regarding the trailing axles - perhaps they could have gone with a proper bissel/pony for the last one, with a fixed Intermediate with plenty of side play for the middle one. J
  18. Email from DHL telling me it’s left Blighty and due in Aus on Monday.
  19. Me too. Looks like it might get down under before christmas
  20. Very nice Mike, put me on the list for one of those sentinels please James
  21. While I have a think about how to fill the slight gap between the can front panel and body side, without unsoldering everything (low melt + heat sink?). I started on the underframe. The Undergubbins- Details are sketchy and most photos are just a black shadow. But that said, there needs to be a air brake actuation cylinder, some push rods, air receiver queen posts and truss rods. Also noted in some images are some square transformer like boxes at one end. The LOR are all air braked, having a large reservoir that stored the air for the brake system, enough for several trips. This was charged at the end of a run by external sources. The only image of the layout is one that appears in CE Box’s book of one of the very first units. The units did and where modified over the years, so this is at best a guide, which is what I have used. For example, is the large air reservoir under both driving motor units or just one end? If anyone has any pictures, please post or send me a PM! For the air reservoirs, I started with 7mm OD brass tube that is 35mm in length. 10thou (0.25mm) brass strip for strapping. Queen posts laminated from 0.4mm brass scrap etch and fashioned to 34mm x 3mm x 1.2mm.
  22. Sure am Baz. I got a good deal on EBay a while back for some partially built examples, that also included some unbuilt sections. Mike kindly supplied the drawings so that I can figure out the assembly of the remaining b pieces. Should manage a bit more this evening
  23. Ray thanks for the correction. My first visit to Steamport was in 1996. At that time the old coal yards and overflow excursion platforms were still there, pacers nodding past every hour or so on the way to Wigan Wallgate. I vividly remember being allowed up on the footplate on a small blue industrial steam loco while it went up and down the yard and pulling levers in the signal box. The rusting ex-barry hulk out the back. Looking back it is a shame that is was allowed to be bowled over after all the work that had been put into it.
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