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Image restoration from pre-May 2021 continues and may take an indefinite period of time.


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Everything posted by Trev1073

  1. I am sure its not on the Postal and as it is platform 2 I suspect not Perishables either which leaves the Sunday Service as the most likely. Thanks for the information.
  2. I have recently purchased a photograph from the Mid 1960's of a Hymek awaiting to depart Penzance on a Passenger train. The headcode appears to be 1A60 ( The final digit is not totally clear and I know there was a 1A69 that was the 08:40 Penzance to Paddington in the Mid 1970's) but I cannot find a reference for this in the information I have. Due to the rarity of pictures of Hymeks at Penzance I would be interested to know what working this was. Has anyone any ideas?
  3. If anyone else is struggling with the lights on DCC using a Zimo decoder I have solved it by changing the MX638D to a MX638C. You need to change/ enter 3 into CV8. This seems to relate to logic or full function ??? It does however work. Trev
  4. Well mine arrived yesterday and pleased to say running is fine after running in on some rollers on DC. Copes with my curves and point work OK but it a bit of a pain getting all wheels on the track. I have fitted a chip and headlights / taillights work fine but no sign of the cab lights or engine room lights. Pretty sure these were not evident on DC either. I am using a Zimo MX638D decoder and all the dip switches are on. Agree with the comments about detail parts with no info. Trev
  5. Thanks for the suggestions to replace the washer, does seem a very weak design feature.
  6. The rear bogie on the M7 appears to be secured by a washer which grips a central spindle. Has anybody any experience in replacing a lost washer? No trace of a spare part that l can find so what alternatives are there?
  7. Has anyone any knowledge of the Plaques cast at Swindon Works BREL in the 1970 - 1985 period? I am aware that there are a number of locomotives, including Warship, Western & Deltic. There are also some steam Locomotives, Castle & King George V. I have never found a list or any real information on these. They do appear on E-Bay and other auction sites from time to time. I also believe that there are copies around which seem to be cast from an original but the limited edition number is missing. I have hopefully attached a picture of a Warship Plaque. Trev Any thoughts information appreciated.
  8. Thanks for your thoughts. It is 31270 basically the ends have dropped off the chassis and the thin plate under the cabs have disintegrated. I was going to file back the ends and glue into the body to preserve lighting but the lighting will not work for the tail lights. I guess it is going to be just one of those things.
  9. My Class 31 has sucummed to Mazak Rot but I was hoping to repair it. My problem is the taillights. The tailights have 2 wires from the PCB to contacts on the chassis which in turn link to the LED unit. my thoughts were that if I connected the contacts directly to the wiring I could avoid the contacts on the chassis which have disintegrated. Problem is that having done this the lights still do not work. Looking at the service diagram it shows 3 wires to the lighting unit (mine does not have the 3rd wire). Was there a return via the chassis on this version? I am at a loss as to why the lights fail to work, any suggestions? Thanks Trev
  10. Just thought that I would comment on this Signal. I received mine promptly from Hattons. I was concerned that the "Control Box" which attaches to the signal is quite large, and I did have to make some significant modifications to my underbaseboard area to accomodate it. However once fitted the signal works a treat, much quieter than the previous signals and the "bounce" is quite effective. I did not need to make any adjustments to the signal at all. There is also comment on price but considering it is two arms and includes the switches (pre-wired) I think it is reasonable value compared to the single arm signals. Trev
  11. I have fitted a Lenz Silver 21 Decoder to a Kernow D600 Warship as I could not get decent control with the Dapol Imperium. I thought that I should be able to remap the function outputs on the decoder so that the Headcodes lights would work by utilising F1 & F2 (On handset) functions which are set for the cab lights that I am happy to lose. So I started with the Lenz Manual for the Decoder. This gives you values for CV's 33 - 47. First problem when reading the CV values they do not match the default settings in the manual, in fact the range in the Manual for these CV's is 0 - 31....CV 35 reads 32 and CV 36 reads 64?? Has anyone managed to remap one of these decoders for this locomotives, and if so could you share the values input please. I am sure I am missing something very simple but I am completly confused. Thanks Trev
  12. Well I tried the settings suggested *and some highe settings as suggested by 34theletterbetweenB&D and had some slight improvement but the decoder/ loco combination is still not good on my layout ( up & down inclines). Decided to try a Lenz Silver + today and generally got better performance without adjustments to any CV's. However I have had a couple of instances where the loco just stops as if the decoder / loco is overheating. Leave for a couple of mins and comes back to life. I know that there appears to be an issue when using sound decoders but I am purely using a drive decoder. Has anyone else had similar issues? I do need to look at my track cleanliness as well as I know it needs a good clean, however no problems on other stock generally. Trev
  13. Thanks Tim I will try them and see how it goes, Trev
  14. Hi has anyone changed the CV settings for the Dapol Imperium Decoder? My 3 loco's run fine but seem a bit "abrupt" on slow down, just wondered if anyone can suggest any changes that they have made? Thanks Trev
  15. OK problem solved. It is CV118 I just needed to reduce it to 20-25 to make the headcode light Dim to a reasonable level. Just for clarity the way the DJ Models 71 is set up this function works on F5 from my Lenz Handset and is independent from the Head / Tail Lights that work as normal on F0. Thanks for everyones replies. Trev
  16. Thanks for the reply but it is the Headcode lighting which on this model is dafaulted to Function 5 which I assume is E which is why I changed CV 118. Thinking about it though it is probally function output F based on A + B equating to Function "0" if this is the case where do I find the adjustments for this? I guess the alternative might be to re-map the function to Function 3 or 4. Trev
  17. I have just installed one of these decoders (Into a DJ Models class 71) and wish to dim the lighting function (currently F5) on my Lenz system. I have read the manual and tried altering CV 116,117 & 118 all of which do not seem to have any effect on any of the lighting functions. Have I missed something? Thanks Trev
  18. Thanks for the comments. The problem does not seem to be on the transition so I am not sure if there is a "rigidity" problem but will check later. I must admit I was wondering if it might improve with running - I did give it some time on a rolling road but the temptation to hang a train on the back was difficult to resist, I will give it a longer light engine run in before considering return. Once again thanks for suggestions and comments. Trev
  19. I have just purchased, or had purchased for me, a 1361. I checked running on DC on a loose piece of track, all fine. Fitted a decoder (Hattons 6 PIN), programmed OK and then set it running on rollers. All works fine both directions, motor was nice and quiet after a while. Must have run it in both directions at least 30 mins. Lubricated where suggested. Still OK on rollers. When placed on layout loco has managed only a very short distance on quite a high throttle 100+ of 128 steps (on rollers it was running on 3/128 steps) and basically runs poorly. Back on rollers fine. I have cleaned the track and other existing stock is fine so I am totally confused by what could be going on. Has anyone had similar issues or is it just down to my trackwork?? Trev
  20. Hi, I have a Silver Fox Warship (A1A-A1A) running on a converted Lima chassis. Does anyone have any experiece on putting one on a newer Bachmann / Hornby / Heljan chassis? I would like to improve the running of the model and this seems a possible way to get better running. If anyone can point me towards an alternative RTR chassis please. Thanks Trev
  21. Andy & Phil, Thanks for your replies seems like a good idea to test it out then. Trev
  22. I normally purchase in my local newagents if something takes my interest. I am however thinking about trying out the digital version which I see you can buy for 1 month. Question do you lose access to the month you have purchased if you decide not to continue with the subscription?
  23. Guys thanks for your suggestions. I contacted the Service Dept and they have confirmed that they are not held as a spare part, they would normally supply complete wheelset with coupling rods etc (£21). However they had a spare from a "reclaimed loco" that they could let me have for a small cost (£2.50). I would agree that the service dept is very good & prompt in responding.
  24. Well I have managed to test the couplings that I located and they seem to work. I am not sure of their origin however I have hopefully attached a couple of images to this post to show you what they look like. They do have a deeper step down and match the B Sets couplings pretty much dead on. I have changed the couplings on the B Sets to Hornby R8099 which are a direct replacement but resemble the slim tension lock rather than the original wide tension lock. Trev
  25. Hi, I have 4 of the Bachmann 45XX which I normally operate with B Sets (Hornby / Airfix). I seem to get lots of issues with coupling up as there appears to be a height difference between the stock. I had assumed that this was because of the Ex Airfix tooling on the B Sets but today I have checked the stock against a Bachmann 82XXX and they are spot on. The 45XX uses stepped Bachmann Couplings but they still seem to be set too high. Has anyone else noticed this problem? Is there a solution which does not involve changing to an alternative coupling method (love to go to Kadee's but far too much stock to even think about!). Trev
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