iL Dottore Posted October 31, 2015 Author Share Posted October 31, 2015 FYI I made the first application of newspaper strips dipped in diluted PVA to the K's Kits roofs for my attempt at creating a reasonable, lightweight, papier mâché roofs. And so far, so good. I'm thinking three applications of newspaper/PVA would be enough before a final fine tissue (white paper) covering. I reckon I should have something to show by Tuesday. If anyone has experience in papier mâché could advise me if I would need more or less layers, do let me know. Thanks iD Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iL Dottore Posted November 7, 2015 Author Share Posted November 7, 2015 It is now official, I give up! I made some Papier-mâché roofs for the 6-wheeler and, quite frankly, I am not happy with them. The photos below show the results of my fumbling: I'll return to using the original K's Kits roofs (rooves????). Far from fine scale (or even medium scale for that matter) they will allow me to complete the kit without a very rough looking roof marring the small upgrades I have made (and will make) elsewhere. Were I to have the kit in pieces again, I would probably see about making cast resin copies of different parts of the kit. Anyway, not wanting to spend too much time on this upgrade (so much for it being a project of week or two) I shall press on and start on the underframe upgrade (nothing fancy, no hyperdetailing, just a visible representation of the "gubbins" underneath) Will post progress pics soon. iD Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prometheus Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Hello iD [again !] I faffed about with some thin brass sheet but gave up on that also: too many creases. Anyway, I concluded that if the original roof was painted and then weathered it might not look too bad. The rest of the kit is hardly up to super-detail standards ! I'm not far off from finishing now and I'll post when all is done. Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iL Dottore Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 Progress has, for a number of reasons, stalled. However, following a discussion at a recent get together of some RMWeb old lags, I have decided to use the carriage in an engineers train. With only a plain brown colour scheme, I no longer have the excuse to put off finishing the model due to "lack of information on 1930s GWR workmen's train colours and markings"(sic), so I am motivated to once again move forward with it. Any errors of livery will be covered by a thick layer of "grot" - which I understand was the normal finish of an engineer's train (however any - more detailed - information passed on will be gratefully received). I should finish the under frame by end of week, all being well. iD Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iL Dottore Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 Alas, it appears that the circular file awaits this upgrade. I fitted the "gubbins" under the carriage and then started on the ends (adding vacuum pipes, buffers and screw-link couplings). To my horror, under magnification I found that the ends of the carriages sides had shifted out of alignment, leaving unsightly lumps at each end. I doubt if the model would survive another disassembly (and I am not sure whether or not "araldite metal" would succumb to hot water, unlike the model's original glue - which did). So 3 options, really: bin the model keep the model, liberally cover with grot and hide at the back of the layout try to disassemble (as where it went wrong was were the 1 side & 1 end sub assemblies were joined, I may not need to completely disassemble everything) Any thoughts? Any experience with "Araldite Metal"? iD Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisf Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 I have no experience of Araldite or other *poxy metal. Bearing that in mind, my approach would be to attempt one more dismantling and then to source a clamp of some sort to hold the errant pieces in situ while the adhesive is curing. You have gone too far to bin it without a fight. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prometheus Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 I rather agree Chris' recommendation. Dismantle the coach, clean up the castings and then reassemble with Araldite two-part epoxy. I like using that adhesive on these kits as whilst it hardens fairly quickly, it still gives enough time to manipulate the castings into their correct positions, and I've found that K's castings do require a fair bit of manipulation. I have no experience of Araldite metal and so cannot advise on removal. I'd try boiling water however, or maybe a soaking in brake fluid ? Is it possible to scrape away any of the stuff first to weaken the joint ? I do think that these coaches are worth persevering with. There'll be other views on this I know, but this 6-wheeler in particular is such an unusual prototype it's worth another bash. You may not have seen the one I finished recently, I've posted a photo below to spur you on [but most assuredly not to rub salt in the wound]. It weighs a ton but runs quite freely! That said, I did chicken out on the chassis and built it to run effectively as a four-wheeler. It just saved so much time. Oh, I'd appreciate it if nobody pointed out that the livery for the roof was out by decades..... Good luck. Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iL Dottore Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share Posted February 3, 2016 Hmm, some inspiring words, indeed. I suppose I can't make things worse. I think I'll try Prometheus's suggestion of scraping away at the errant joints and then re-assembling the halves. Stay posted iD Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prometheus Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Looking forward to updates Doc.... Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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